engine comming out yost to have a look at the condition.

[Martin U]

Hi all,
Before I get into the garage I have a few questions.

Do I have to pull the coil pack to pull engine. Does the PS pump have to come off/ I do have to pull the turbo, just because I built some permanent engine pulling brackets the attach to the heads-chains will not clear. Guess I'll have to redesign those a tad. I used -an lines as much as possible to ease this procedure for the next time. Am I missing anything? all plugs are permanently marked . Throttle bracket.

I would like to leave all I can on so when I go to reinstall, I can mount most of the things attached, I'll start with the electrical connections. ATR headers. Trans will come out at the same time. Just going to do HG and check the bearings all around as long as I got it out.
Marts
PS is there a better turbo drain tube out there.
Car runs fine,just started seeping oil at HG. no money for a roller at this time.
Thinking about felpro1200 intake gaskets and doweling ehaust & intake.
Mart

 

[Martin U]

AND I might have to enroll in a typing class. How and the heck do they type on a phone????

 

[Vertigo107]

I dont know where the link is, but if you do a search, there is a detailed step by step for engine removal on Turbo Regal Web Site

 

[Martin U]

I,ve pulled it before,but I stripped it down before I did it. I was just looking for info on what must come off and what can stay on. I was just trying to save time. It's a hot air. wiring for sure. But it looks like I can leave the cross over on-maybe not
Marty

 

[Jerryl]

I think you need to remove the starter. Never had any luck leaving it on.
I remove the cross-over to prevent damage.
Leave the headers and turbo on, remove the TB, and anything in the front to be able to pull the wiring out. Don't forget the TV cable and trans cooler lines, etc.

If you are pulling "with the trans", just loosen the converter bolts, before you pull it.
Not necessary, but makes it much easier later on.

 

[Martin U]

OK on the converter bolts. It just looked like the cross over could stay, just a height issue, I;ll pull it ,easy enough. I might have to design a quick disconnect for the starter wires, I already replaced all the hard lines and tubes with -an fittings just to make it easy. Not that I plan I doing this again.
Any roller cam and lifters better than others? I built this engine as strong as I could, but I just want to check the internals just to be sure.

 

[Jerryl]

OK on the converter bolts. It just looked like the cross over could stay, just a height issue, I;ll pull it ,easy enough. I might have to design a quick disconnect for the starter wires, I already replaced all the hard lines and tubes with -an fittings just to make it easy. Not that I plan I doing this again.
Any roller cam and lifters better than others? I built this engine as strong as I could, but I just want to check the internals just to be sure.

Pulling it again?
That's what I said . . . . 3 times ago. LOL!!

IMHO, you relly need to establish a goal.
That will give you a pupose build combo.

Not trying to be vague or side-stepping the question.
Personally, with the TA49/comverter combo, I would opt for the XR1.
Opinions will vary, A LOT!!

 

[Martin U]

XR1?? Is that a cam # from FT? I guess If I had to pick a # for power out put , would 11.xx be reasonable for the street. I will be adding or building a 3.0 downpipe in the future maybe a 2800 stall converter.
You know more about combos than I do. I did add the best parts I could at the time, so I wouldn't have to add them later. Hence the GN1's, girdle. etc.
What do you think it MIGHT run with a good tune?
PS that 6.0 chip is giving me fits &^%&$^%#
Marty

 

[Jerryl]

XR1?? Is that a cam # from FT? I guess If I had to pick a # for power out put , would 11.xx be reasonable for the street. I will be adding or building a 3.0 downpipe in the future maybe a 2800 stall converter.
You know more about combos than I do. I did add the best parts I could at the time, so I wouldn't have to add them later. Hence the GN1's, girdle. etc.
What do you think it MIGHT run with a good tune?
PS that 6.0 chip is giving me fits &^%&$^%#
Marty

XR1 is the FT 206/210 cam.
According the the map, the TA49 60 trim compressor wheel is rated at 50lbs/min @ 2.3PR. 2.3 PR is about 18 PSI (between friends ).
I know some have it run much harder, but that is what the Garret map indicates here.

We also know that the 206/206 cam has been deep in the teens.
Not going to discuss split/symetrical lobe cams, and advertised timing and timing events of intake vs. exhaust.
I also have my flame suit on.

 

[Martin U]

You won't need that suit from me. I listen to all the good and bad. Somewhere in the middle is the truth.
Marty

 

[Jerryl]

You won't need that suit from me. I listen to all the good and bad. Somewhere in the middle is the truth.
Marty

The flame suit was not meant towards you.
The real truth lies in your goals, and depth of your pocket.

I listen to the good and the bad as well, but, I am no longer wasting my time arguing over petty stuff.
Take care.

 

[Martin U]

My pockets are so bare, I don't have to worry about sewing the holes up in them. I've been out of work for about 10mos. But I now have a job & no time.
Before it was just the opposite. I will try to save for a roller cam, just to have one less thing to worry about. It's fast enough for now.---IF I can learn to tune it.