Engine Build

We'll see what the machine shop says, but right now my plan is to turn the crank and use the billet main caps with the main studs.
 
We'll see what the machine shop says, but right now my plan is to turn the crank and use the billet main caps with the main studs.

Stock crank and a girdle or steel crank and main caps. If I was using the stock crank I wouldn't spend any money on that stuff. The stock crank can take you pretty far but the steel units are safer when looking to make power. I would just keep it under 11.5x and build a Good shortblock to go after your HP goal.
 
What bison said-i would not run with that damage-find a good one-oil cooler???????????????? Have two rebuilt low mileage short blocks for sale p.m. Me
where you located?
Doc
 
Getting the machine work out of the way. Crank needed to be turned .020. He did a line bore for the mains. I got some forged pistons and rods going to keep the stock crank. This car is not going to be a drag car, just a nice fast street car.

Would running stock cam bearings be ok or should i got with some ta grooved bearings? Also what cam would be a nice upgrade from stock? I was looking at the comp cams sk69-246-4. COMP Cams SK69-246-4 - COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Which rod and main bearings should i get?
 
Getting the machine work out of the way. Crank needed to be turned .020. He did a line bore for the mains. I got some forged pistons and rods going to keep the stock crank. This car is not going to be a drag car, just a nice fast street car.

Would running stock cam bearings be ok or should i got with some ta grooved bearings? Also what cam would be a nice upgrade from stock? I was looking at the comp cams sk69-246-4. COMP Cams SK69-246-4 - COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Which rod and main bearings should i get?


The Erson flat tappet cams have less aggressive ramps which is good with todays oils even with zddp. Mine makes good power with stock everything else and is great on the street with the alky...rolling 2nd gear spinning then hooking then awesome! It's just a 208/208 with only 75lb springs. I have a very similar combo to yours...times in sig. You can get an Erson cam, bearings, and proper springs (75-100lbs) all from T/A performance.
 
buickforlife,

I wanted to do the forged rotating assembly stroker build but I also want to get the car back together in a reasonable amount of time. I think the limit for the stock crank and rods with good bolts seems to be around 550HP (according with what I've seen on this forum). This assumes the engine is properly built, RPM is kept under 6000 and detonation is minimized. Someone please correct me if this is wrong. Maybe plan on making less power to get the project done for less money...?

I think the LS conversion is worth consideration. Parts for the LS motors seem to be cheaper than the V6 Buick. The conversion seems to be the steep part of the hill. No more questionable oil system either. I am open to hearing what others think.
 
if i were in your shoes, i'd focus on determining what caused all the damage first, before trying to wring more power out of it (i.e. knock from lousy tune/overboost, oil starvation, poor assembly at last build, etc. etc.). i spent a lot of money and the entire summer reading, ordering parts, and building my motor... what started out as a head gasket replacement and lower end inspection quickly snowballed when i found lot of hidden damage ($$). if your oil pickup screen has that much debris in it i'd say your oil pump got a steady diet of shavings! don't cut any corners and make sure you can afford to do it right before you spend ANY money, especially if you're intending to make big power in the future. lastly, whatever you figure it's gonna cost, double it (seriously, ask me how i know!)
 
Top