I want to maintain factory stroke I'm wanting at least 500 at the wheel ..thank you
500whp doesn't sound unreasonable, and Chuck makes a decent point in advising you to identify your current issue, but let's assume you find the issue on tear down.
I wouldn't recommend a stroker for a 500whp build for a couple reasons. The first would be cost of components alone. Once you start pricing out parts, you'll find the rotating assembly alone is between $250-$500 alone. Next is the machining. Any build is going to at least require a once over from a machinist, but the stroker will require, crank bearings to be chamfered and the block to be clearances at the least. The cost adds up quickly, although a stroker will make more power with less boost than a comparable factory stroke counterpart. Driveability is nice as well I have read.
A factory stroke motor will also most likely require machine work too as I mentioned earlier. Crankshafts are rarely good to go straight out of the box, but as long as everything is good to go on tear down its a much easier route.
For 500whp, I would recommend coated bearings too. Calico makes a nice set. They are a little pricey, but they live long compared to cheaper uncoated ones like Clevite. I'm not sure if King makes bearings for these cars, but I've had good experiences with those as well on other engines.
There's quite a bit that goes into a build. The most important thing I can stress is that an engine isn't just the sum of it's parts. Check and double check all clearances even if a professional sets it up for you. If you do any boring or honing, pay attention to cylinder wall material as well. It's easy to do damage and not know it until start up.
There's a bit more to it, and I'm learning these motors as well at the moment, but this is a fun process. I'm going to continue reading every bit of info I can on building these, and if I come across any useful info, I'll pass it along.
PS. I would consider caps or a girdle with power like that.
