Eaton posi disassemble?

6togo

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2011
I would like to check the clutches on the 30 spline posi i just got along with the spiders they look fine just want to be safe i did notice when you stick your finger in the slide pin hole the little gears have some play i guess this is normal? Does anyone have any exp. taking one apart and maybe a good write up or pics anything i should look out for? This is a aftermarket carrier 19559-1!
thanks,Chris
 
Well i got the carrier apart the springs are a little tricky but not bad! All the gears look good hardly any wear and all the friction plates look good except the outer plate that rides against the the gear it has a groove in it both sides the same. The friction plates have what seems to be a fair amount of honeycomb material on them i dont know good from bad though this is the first i've done! Should i replace the plates while it's apart ? or do they sound to be in decent shape?
Chris
 
If you have gotten it apart, you might as well change the clutches.

I worked with product engineers and their opinion was that most limited slip clutch type units are worn out by 30,000 miles. Whether they look good or not. The preload drops off rapidly as they wear. That's why the electric (elockers) are gaining popularity from the OEMs. They work only when needed and don't wear out as quickly. I was a Manufacturing Engineer at a axle plant (not GM). The clutches were made and supplied by Raybestos.

I think a clutch kit is about $125 from DTS, etc.
 
Considering i dont know the history or milelage of the carrier i think a plate change is in order along with all new bearings! It does have a date stamped on it from 05' but that dont mean much could have sit on a shelf for some time!
Chris
 
If you have the corect tools for changing the bearing, then maybe.

Bearings, if good shape, can last 100s of thousands of miles.

If you haven't removed carrier bearings before or don't have the exact tool to do it, DON'T do it.

Most of the time the carrier bearing get broken up and the race lands get broken off trying to remove them. As a result then there is nothing to grab onto to remove. Then the only way to remove them is by cutting them off. If you're lucky, the case may room behind the bearing to aid in its removal.

OTC (SPC - Kent Moore) makes a special tool that is clamshell which is fairly effective in getting carrier bearings off in the first try. They didn't make one for my application at work, so I had the tool room make a few. It was the only effective way to remove the bearings in the teardown area.

I'm not saying that it can't be done or that it will break, but why possibly subject yourself to that possibility. Visual examination of the bearing is easy and reliable. If it's not broken, don't mess with it.

PM for specifics or a phone number
 
I have done many bearing swaps over the years never had any issues i just used the bearing extractor with the two bolts make them tight then tap with a hmmer to seat it them tighten a little more! I would leave them however i got no races with them i dont like swapping races or bearings that are not new.The only bad part is i dont have a press handy might just go to HB and buy one! I just looked DTS up they are local to me never knew they were they!
Chris
 
Yep there is a DTS INC local and i will work on removing the bearings later this weekend when i get the press but i was reading about the shims they use behind the clutch pack i see one on both sides just dont know if they will be right with new plates i would assume they will be being the probably went in when it was brand new.
Chris
 
Yep there is a DTS INC local and i will work on removing the bearings later this weekend when i get the press but i was reading about the shims they use behind the clutch pack i see one on both sides just dont know if they will be right with new plates i would assume they will be being the probably went in when it was brand new.
Chris

Been a while since I rebuilt a posi unit, however, IIRC, the spec is by measuring the play between the spider gears and side gears. You put together one side along with the pin. Then drive a wedge between the pin and side gear.

Using a dial indicator measure the rotational play in the spider gear. Shim until that play is within spec.

Repeat for other clutch pack.

OK, checked the '67 Pontiac FSM. Above procedure is correct. The backlash spec is 0.001" to 0.006". That is for the Pontiac clutch style Safe-T-Track (posi) diff unit.

Be sure to oil the clutch packs first. I usually soaked them in oil overnight.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Thanks for the info. I will try the existing shim and see what happens as soon as i find the clutch kit.
Chris
 
Here is a question i removed the carrier bearings yesterday and found no shims behind them i know i have done some carriers that were shimmed is it normal to see no shims on the 28 or 30 spline eatons? I do understand i could have been setup that way just wondering the normal so i hopefully dont press new bearings on and have to get them of to add shims!
Chris
 
Here is a question i removed the carrier bearings yesterday and found no shims behind them i know i have done some carriers that were shimmed is it normal to see no shims on the 28 or 30 spline eatons? I do understand i could have been setup that way just wondering the normal so i hopefully dont press new bearings on and have to get them of to add shims!
Chris

Carrier bearings do not get shims. The pinion gear bearing does.

Shims are used between the carrier bearing races and diff housing. This sets the backlash of the Ring & Pinion.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Good deal i know the pinion does and i have done a few with shims on the outside of the races sometimes you get lucky and the factory shims do the trick!
thanks,Chris
 
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