DS Header finally cracks...need help!

[d0n_3d]

Just got home tonight and popped the hood and noticed my shield on the DS header had popped off...well I looked closer and now the infamous cracking has occurred...I am starting to notice slow spoolup and my code 44 is still going on. So now I know what was causing that code 44 to happen at idle all the time. Now I need to get this header fixed ASAP before this Friday so I can race at the Buick Midwest Challenge! Should I just have a local exhaust shop weld it and me take it off? Or should I just leave the car with them and let them take the header off? I don't want to spend TOO much money if all possible so I will most likely take it off myself. What is the procedure for doing this and is this an easy fix for an exhaust shop. I don't want this thing to ever crack again. I can blame my bigger TE-44 turbo for causing this crack because at 80k miles and with stock turbo I never saw cracks until now. But that is a good sign because it means my car is alot more powerful now

 

[Swt_86]

Most of the guys are saying these cracks should TIG welded for durability. Makes sense. You may also want to have a brace welded between #3 and #5 tubes to reduce the chance of cracking in the future.

 

[turbo buicks]

the header is pretty easy to take off. i did mine. try getting the bolts off through the wheel well. jack the car up and you can see like 4 of them right there. i would take it off and have a shop weld it then get it coated w/some coating like Jet-Hot or something. that might help some good luck

 

[Turbojorge]

I did it to my car about 9 months ago and It wasn't all that hard. This was back when I had no experience at all with working on cars. My biggest fear was breaking one of the bolts that hold the headers and then having to live with an even nastier exhaust leak then before. But I was very patient in removing it (It took me about 4 hours) and everything was ok. I let the car sit for the rest of the day, woke up the next morning, had a freind TIG weld it ($20) got back home and spend another 3-4 hours putting it back on. I used the gasket (Felpro 1400) and have never had a problem since.

Believe me, you can do it yourself. Just be patient.

Good luck.

 

[d0n_3d]

well good news...my friend said he can have a friend of his tig weld it for free for me...such a generous guy! anyways i will "attempt" to remove the bolts tomorrow and get this thing off...i need this car done by friday! i haven't raced in like 3 months and i am having withdrawls especially now that i have my new turbo and injectors all set...do i really need to use a gasket when i put it back on??? i heard that you didn't have to and that it doesn't even come factory with a gasket...

 

[ThikStik]

The cheap stainless steel used in our headers is supposed to make welding kinda tricky. Best advice is to have header bolted to a head to prevent warping during welding./

 

[UNGN]

You won't need to use a gasket if it is welded while bolted to a head. If its welded in a free state, the number 5 tube can easily be 1/4"+ out of plane with 1 and 3 due to distortion.

After welding, lap or file the header mating surfaces flat and you should have zero leaks.

 

[JToups386]

Driver's side header is a breeze. Shouldn't take more than an hour to get it off the car! As for using gaskets, UNGN is correct too. The factory didn't use them, because everything was flat to begin with. However, over time the heat does cause warping and the welding repair will only enhance that warpage. Unless you have a way to get the surface machine flattened, then your best bet is to go back with a gasket. It makes up for the surface imperfections, unless they are huge. I've never seen any performance downside to using the gaskets, as long as the port sizes have not been opened up to larger than the gasket holes.

 

[BEATAV8]

Lot's of good advice here. Only thing I'd like to add is make sure there's no slag or debris inside the header after welding. Slag chunkies can come off after a while and you know where they'll end up! I used a little wire brush to clean up the inside after welding and then blew the header out with compressed air.

 

[TurboDave]

Unfortunately most folks just don't have spare heads laying around to bolt the header to.
Next best alternative is to have the guy doing the welding, clamp the header flange to a good solid flat surface while welding.

Truth be told, I've had several header repairs done, both driver's side and passenger side with none of them being clamped/mounted and haven't seen any warping occur yet. Wonder what causes others to warp

 

[d0n_3d]

hmmmmm i figured it would be easy to weld...just weld the cracks and walla...now i gotta have it flush with a flat surface so nothing warps??? hmmm...maybe i will tell my friend that just to be on the safe side...i will see when i take off the header to see what kind of condition it is in...i never ran the car that hard until this past year and that's why it FINALLY has starting cracking at 85k miles...btw what kind of stainless steel exactly are the headers made out of again? this way i can let the welder know

 

[GNVAIR]

The problem with the factory headers is that they are made of 409 stainless which has a higher content of mild steel. It is very brittle and not very tolerant of repeated high exhaust temps; which is one of the reasons it cracks. The other problem with it is that even though you might weld the crack up, it could possibly crack again right next to the weld. The proper material for turbo headers should really be 304 or 321 stainless. It has a much higher nickle content and can take repeated exposure to high temperatures over and over again.

 

[scottyb]

I always put a dab of anti-seize on the studs/bolts for exhaust parts when re-assembling.

 

[d0n_3d]

btw does anyone know what size socket i need to take off the head bolt/studs? i tried a 9/16's and it seems like there is a little play in it...also those bolts are gonna be HARD to get off!

 

[Wolfj359]

Originally posted by d0n_3d
btw does anyone know what size socket i need to take off the head bolt/studs? i tried a 9/16's and it seems like there is a little play in it...also those bolts are gonna be HARD to get off!

If your 9/16 has a little play you could use a 14mm which should fit rather snug.

 

[Turbojorge]

I'm not sure of the size, just spray the bolts down with WD-40 or some sort of bolt loosener and be careful. You will need to remove the oil dip stick from the block (at least I had too). I found that it (the header itself) will only come out threw the bottom of the car.

After some cursing and wiggling, it will come out and you will feel like a champ.

Good luck.

 

[d0n_3d]

ok guys good news...i got it out with little problem...it was a 14 mm indeed...the ds header is cracked pretty good and pretty much all the way around between 3 and 5 with another set of cracks below it...i can practically see daylight through it...

so now i am thinking about just replacing the whole dang thing...how many of you have postons headers and can i just buy the ds header from them or do i HAVE to buy the set of two for 500 bucks...also does kirban's sell a ds header or anyone else??? this thing looks like it has no hope for welding...i would rather just buy a new one...thanks

 

[Boston GN]

ATR sells just the DS for around 260. Just FYI

 

[Justaveesix]

Originally posted by TurboDave
Truth be told, I've had several header repairs done, both driver's side and passenger side with none of them being clamped/mounted and haven't seen any warping occur yet. Wonder what causes others to warp.

I had mine welded and they never bolted it to anything either...stock cast heads are not exactly the smoothest surface in the world after 15yrs. FWIW, I had the flange cut to reduce some of the stress on the #5 tube. Poor design from the factory but works well into the 10's.

HTH

 

[scottyb]

Mine was cracked about 80% around. I could see daylight too. A buddy welded it a year ago, SFSG.