Distributor-HOLY SH!T!!!!!(THANKS CAL + DAN!!)

Are there any clearance issues with the IAC and the distrributor cap? I have the aluminum block that relocates the IAC so that it is angled away from the turbo.
Thanks,
Jeff
 
Not sure on the IAC, i use the Dale Cherry IAC adapter, lots of clearance! The bracket and tensioner needs to be modded, pretty good.
 

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On a stock Intake with a 3/4 in spacer, IAC w/ the Champion IAC adapter, the plug just barely pluged in. I actually had to unplug the nearest cap wire and re plug in after the iac was connected.

Now with the New Champion intake , no spacer , i had to mod the IAC with the old caspers mod. The one where the wires were stuck in the IAC and gooped in place. I made my own kit and it works very well.
 

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Would run run the same spark plug and gap with this setup? Was there any problem running a 4" pipe off the turbo to the filter?
Thanks,
Jeff
 
What about a stock block application? info for the "109" people please! what gains would a stock block expect to see? Scot w.
 
Jeff Rand said:
Would run run the same spark plug and gap with this setup? Was there any problem running a 4" pipe off the turbo to the filter?
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff
On my car the 4in pipe is snug but not tight. A 5 in inlet pipe which is what my turbo needs will not fit..without major work. I run the same gap, I found that I could not run much more gap than stock and the car would miss really bad.
 
scot w. said:
What about a stock block application? info for the "109" people please! what gains would a stock block expect to see? Scot w.


Lotsa 109 TSM guys are running the Dist now. What the gains are ? Thats hard to say... There are folks that have posted their opinions on power gains. Check prior posts.. :biggrin:
 
turbo_canuck said:
rag231, i used a new msd billett one, pn# MSD-8551.

HellOnWheels, It was a surprisingly easy swap, i pulled the coil + module, cam sensor and msd dis4 box. Next, i ordered a distributor- listed above, ($346.88), a set of wires-pn#MSD-31199 ($87.88), an msd coil- pn#MSD-8261 ($139.88) and a 7al2plus box- pn#MSD-7222 ($542.88). From cal hartline, i ordered a dead-end connector plug, which bolts to the harness where the stock ignition module used to go, and a jumper that plugs into the cam sensor plug and the distributor. i had to cut off 5 of the 6 reluctor tabs on the distributor shaft to give a cam signal, plug it in, then point it at #1 while the engine was at 25*, before tdc. the install of the other components was pretty straightforward, and the car started right up. all i had to do was verify timing with a light that the fast was seeing proper timing. it's not that easy with an xfi, or other systems as i've read. but that's pretty much it with an old fast sequential like mine.

Well,I am getting closer. I just have to get the wires and coil. I heard that you have to phase in the rotor buy drilling a hole in the cap at the number 1 position and shoot a timing light down the hole to adjust the position of the rotor I think. Also on the MSD distributor did you lock out the advance?
Thanks for this post. I am really looking foward to this modification.
Jeff
 
Jeff, you do not have to drill a hole in your cap. If you need some help, let me know.

Yes, you do lock out the advance on the MSD dist.
 
Nick Micale said:
Jeff, you do not have to drill a hole in your cap. If you need some help, let me know.

Yes, you do lock out the advance on the MSD dist.

Thanks Nick,
I will see you in Surprise.
Jeff
 
One thing i will stress, LOCTITE the rotor screws!!!!

Or double check them all the time
so far i have seen 3 sets come out and it usually tears up the cap and rotor
if it jumps out at high RPM
 
KLHAMMETT said:
One thing i will stress, LOCTITE the rotor screws!!!!

Or double check them all the time
so far i have seen 3 sets come out and it usually tears up the cap and rotor
if it jumps out at high RPM

Didn't that happen to Dusty with the Chevy motor?
 
Not sure,But it happened to Tony Gomes at reynolds last year,He lifted at the end of a pass and the car shut off.

I just had a Drag Radial mustang on my dyno and at 7300 it popped and shut off,Sure enough pull off the cap and one screw is laying there and the rotor was all broken up
 
KLHAMMETT said:
Not sure,But it happened to Tony Gomes at reynolds last year,He lifted at the end of a pass and the car shut off.

I just had a Drag Radial mustang on my dyno and at 7300 it popped and shut off,Sure enough pull off the cap and one screw is laying there and the rotor was all broken up


It did also happen to Dusty.
Use the LT and call it a day!
 
KLHAMMETT said:
One thing i will stress, LOCTITE the rotor screws!!!!

Or double check them all the time
so far i have seen 3 sets come out and it usually tears up the cap and rotor
if it jumps out at high RPM

Been there done that!
 
norbs said:
Not sure on the IAC, i use the Dale Cherry IAC adapter, lots of clearance! The bracket and tensioner needs to be modded, pretty good.

Norbs,
Do you have a IAT sensor stuffed into the IC hose or is the pic decieving?
 
turbobuick said:
Norbs,
Do you have a IAT sensor stuffed into the IC hose or is the pic decieving?


Thats correct, its sandwiched between two thin nuts, and loctited in for safety, but i did not loctite my rotor in, maybe i should after reading this thread. :eek:
 
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