Direct drum bleed hole

[turbodarryl]

Do anybody have a detailed pic or advise on where exactly to drill the bleed in the drum? And can it be drilled from the outside of the drum in.?

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[turbodarryl]

Anyone . ??

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[TexasT]

I didn't drill a hole. What mods are you making to warrant the need for a bleed hole?

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[turbodarryl]

I got that from the CK manual for engines turning over 5000 rpm. , my trans will be going behind an LS so I'm sure I'll meet an exceed that rpm, I'm not a trans guy so I'm still not really sure if I need this mod are not

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[PaulRV6]

I just looked at the manual and you drill thru from the inside to the outside at a 45 deg angle. I see where he shows it but that is all.

paul

 

[TexasT]

I see. I read that in the manual, I doubted mine would spin over 6k so I didnt do it.
Have you done a search. Surely someone has pix of their bleed hole.

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[turbodarryl]

I did a search but dont really see any info on drilling the hole or pics., yea thats what I figured, somebody had to have done this mod, it seems to be a popular mod to the direct drum.

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[Steve V]

Don't do it I am sure Dave, Lonnie or Vince will explain why.

 

[TexasT]

I did a search but dont really see any info on drilling the hole or pics., yea thats what I figured, somebody had to have done this mod, it seems to be a popular mod to the direct drum.

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If it is that popular someone would have a thread on it.

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[turbodarryl]

i guess your right, it dont seem as popular as i thought, i cant find any treads on doing this on a 2004r, i see a few on google that others have done but i think im going to NOT do this mod, thanks for the advise and replies, just going to move forward an get this trans built.

 

[Steve V]

Just because it is in the Ck book does not mean it is correct...that book is only one mans approach. Many ways to skin a cat.

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[turbodarryl]

Just because it is in the Ck book does not mean it is correct...that book is only one mans approach. Many ways to skin a cat.

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your 100% right , thats why im taking the advise and leaving it alone.

Since im still dealing with the direct drum i figured ask this question here, i just tried to replac the bushings in my direct drum and the front bushing, the skinny one just snuggy slides in without needing to be pressed, old one had to be tapped out with a punch, the bushing bore looks fine and shows no signs of wear, can still see the factory machine marks, no signs of overheating, is there a special bushing for brf trans, or my drum is just shot.?

 

[David Husek]

Do anybody have a detailed pic or advise on where exactly to drill the bleed in the drum? And can it be drilled from the outside of the drum in.?

I would not drill the hole and never have, Make sure you have all 16 spring in the direct drum.

your 100% right , thats why im taking the advise and leaving it alone.

Since im still dealing with the direct drum i figured ask this question here, i just tried to replac the bushings in my direct drum and the front bushing, the skinny one just snuggy slides in without needing to be pressed, old one had to be tapped out with a punch, the bushing bore looks fine and shows no signs of wear, can still see the factory machine marks, no signs of overheating, is there a special bushing for brf trans, or my drum is just shot.?

You have a TH200 direct bushing instead of the 200-4R one.

 

[turbodarryl]

Thanks David, I have not drilled the hole an will not drill it, I'm glad to know my drum is OK, old bushing was tight coming out and I couldn't figured out why the new one didn't fit tight, and yes It does have the 16 springs. Thanks

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[TexasT]

I would not drill the hole and never have, Make sure you have all 16 spring in the direct drum.



You have a TH200 direct bushing instead of the 200-4R one.

Wow, Mr. Husek, dropping knowledge. Thank you very much for stopping in an answering our questions. It is super helpful.
I didn't have the 16 springs. I used the 12 that were in there. I saw on the gnttype.org build where he advised taking 4 out so I figured it would be ok. On the next one I could try to find some more to install if it is advisable. I guess it just helps the clutch release.

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[David Husek]

Just because it is in the Ck book does not mean it is correct...that book is only one mans approach. Many ways to skin a cat.

Wow, Mr. Husek, dropping knowledge. Thank you very much for stopping in an answering our questions. It is super helpful.
I didn't have the 16 springs. I used the 12 that were in there. I saw on the gnttype.org build where he advised taking 4 out so I figured it would be ok. On the next one I could try to find some more to install if it is advisable. I guess it just helps the clutch release.

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You need the 16 springs to get the timing correct and to keep direct from burning up.

 

[TexasT]

Good to know. I will be on the look out to round up additional springs.

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[bison]

Don't drill any holes. I've played with this in the past. As Dave mentioned you need all 16 springs and sometimes 16 stiffer springs. The bushing integrity is important to keep the drum running true. The sealing ring bore is a typical problem area but there are solutions out there for worn bores. The flatness and diameter of the drum surface are important also. Without access to a machine shop id stick with a nice original stock drum that no one had a chance to ruin yet. All parts warehouses have crap drums. I've noticed runout and undersize o.d. on most of them. These transmissions are really old now and that is to be expected with the niche market they are in.


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[TexasT]

Thank you Mr. Bison for dropping your knowledge on us as well.

Any additional advise on the "stiffer" spring? I am going to look for some thing with similar diameter and height but with a thicker coil or additional coils.
I am in the "stock" power level. Good grief, I'm still running a stock turbo and injectors. I'm just glad it seems to be shifting at this point.

Thanks again to Mr. Husek and Mr. Bison for stopping in. Great that they share their knowledge!

 

[TexasT]

double post.