Dipstick Rising

TurboV6Olds

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Could anyone tell me why my car will lift the dipstick out of the tube during a 1/4 mile pass at the track? It blows oil out and gets on the drivers side header and on the plug wires almost everytime. The car has about 600 miles on a stroker crank with steel main caps, forged scat rods, forged JE pistons, roller cam and lifters, ported / polished heads. I am running 19 psi boost on 93 w/ Alky. Wideband is reading about 9.8 to 10.2 during the entire run (Good and rich) The car will smoke going down the track but does not smoke at idle. If anything else needs to be listed please let me know.

Thanks,

Rick Headrick
 
are you using a PCV valve ? what kind of valve covers are you using? breathers?
lets see an engine pic
 
Good questions Phil......wait.....Phil!?

The man, the myth, the legend has returned?
 
were not out of town racing this weekend, so im relaxing reading the Buick boards
 
Engine Pic

are you using a PCV valve ? what kind of valve covers are you using? breathers?
lets see an engine pic

Hopefully this will help. I can take a better pic tommorow.

I have stock valve covers, brand new PCV valve. I have KN filter on drivers side and small Autozone filter on front of pass side valve cover.
 

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Is it a GM pcv valve for the turbo 6 engine ? If not thats where your problem is.

I personally never used a pcv valve.
 
PVC Valve

Is it a GM pcv valve for the turbo 6 engine ? If not thats where your problem is.

I personally never used a pcv valve.

I don't think the PVC valve is a GM and I'm not 100% sure it is for a Turbo 6 motor either. It came from Autozone I think. This may be a dumb question but how do I delete the PVC valve in the intake?

Thanks for the info.
 
you can take a bolt, cut the head off to were its just the threads showing, cram it in the vaccum hose thats going to the pcv valve with some silicone and reinstall the hose to the pcv valve so it still looks like its hooked up factory .

It would be easier to just go to the dealer and get the correct pcv valve, there are some vendors on here that might have one in stock.

Id check with
GBodyParts.com Online
 
Could anyone tell me why my car will lift the dipstick out of the tube during a 1/4 mile pass at the track? It blows oil out and gets on the drivers side header and on the plug wires almost everytime. The car has about 600 miles on a stroker crank with steel main caps, forged scat rods, forged JE pistons, roller cam and lifters, ported / polished heads. I am running 19 psi boost on 93 w/ Alky. Wideband is reading about 9.8 to 10.2...............Rick Headrick

So it would be safe to assume this new build develops much more power at a higher RPM than you had in the past?

The PCV will do OK on a stock build, but when you build a race engine with looser tolerances and more boost for more HP, you end up with much more crankcase pressure. The PCV will NOT handle this. :mad:

The pressure must go somewhere, and the path of least resistance is out the breathers, push the dip stick out or both. So you can pipe these vapors to an accumulator, or the better method when building a race car is use a vacuum system to evacuate to crankcase pressure.

If you go with just breathers or piping to an accumulator, one help is to make or install some sort of baffle in the valve cover to keep all the oil being thrown around from being directed into the vent and splashing over the outside of engine.

Race engines are usually built with looser tolerances, so this will increase crankcase pressure and that will give you smoke down the track.

When I ran an electric vac pump which was very unreliable, I could tell it blew the fuse, or was not working for some other reason, when I would see smoke in my rear view mirror! :eek:
 
PCV and Breather Pics

you can take a bolt, cut the head off to were its just the threads showing, cram it in the vaccum hose thats going to the pcv valve with some silicone and reinstall the hose to the pcv valve so it still looks like its hooked up factory .

It would be easier to just go to the dealer and get the correct pcv valve, there are some vendors on here that might have one in stock.

Id check with
GBodyParts.com Online

Here are additional pics. I noticed that I have oil around the PCV valve as well.
 

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what phill is telling you is that without a pcv checkvalve you are pushing 19psi thru the pcv line right into the crankecase and out the dipstick
 
The "new" pcv valves you can pick up from the autoparts store for these cars do not seal very well. So they let boost by and it pressurizes the crank case. Kirban, amongst other vendors on this site sell the correct pcv valve.

Another option it to put a small swing-valve in line with the pcv, that way at the track, you can just shut that system down.
 
Thanks alot guys for the info. I was hoping nothing bad was wrong after all the problems I have had in the past. It always seems to be something with these motors, but they are sooo fun to drive.

Thanks again to everyone who has posted,

Rick Headrick
 
You should look into a pcv catch can system because no matter what you do oil will be sucked into the intake. Get a good inline check valve too for the pcv. Go to a hydaulic hose place and ask for a low pressure 1/4" npt check valve with hose barb fittings
 
Thanks

You should look into a pcv catch can system because no matter what you do oil will be sucked into the intake. Get a good inline check valve too for the pcv. Go to a hydaulic hose place and ask for a low pressure 1/4" npt check valve with hose barb fittings

Thanks for the info. I'll let everyone know when I decide what to do.

Thanks again to EVERYONE,

Rick Headrick
 
Hope its a PCV issue. I personally like the Autozone plastic 1162 PCV. Cheap and works better than the AC Delco. Blow thru it before purchasing.
 
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