Did my accumulator ball just die?

Skillet

With two Ss
Joined
Feb 25, 2003
The other day as I was turning around in a parking lot I noticed my parking brake light was on. I pulled the handle but it didn't go off. I set the brake, and release, No change. I thought oh well, just a short. I mash for the brake for a upcoming stop sign and it is hard as a rock. The car doesn't slow down at all. Thankfully I was going very slow and had enough room to slow down. Is this a accumulator bowl problem? How do I test something like that? There are no obviously broken/loose lines, and no leaks either. Does anybody have anything to say for or against the reproduction piece Kirban sells? The local bone yard is showing several G Bodies in stock but I'm really not wanting to do the vaccum swap unless I absolutely have to.
 
I can't post on personal experience, butI have never heard a single complaint that I remember on Kirban's accumulator ball the he sells. In fact there is a waiting list to get one as the people wanting one exceed the quantities shipped. I would not hesitate to buy one, or order one. Somebody was selling and or advertising a first generation, (all black) brand new in the box, but did not advertise the price as I remember. There is also a company that is selling a refillable one for about 450 or so. I would not go there. A search might bring some results. HTH
 
I've read deeply into this...I know everyone hates the search function but if you type in "accumulator" you get all kinds of stuff to read about. My problem was very similar...I just replaced mine...so far so good. I'd go with Kirban's if I was buying a new one. May buy an extra just to have around.
 
Your brake light also comes on when there is low pressure in the PM assembly. Accumulator seems to be the most likely to go first. Change it soon and before you drive again. You don't want to drive and not be able to stop.
 
I'm on the list for Kirbans right now. I just paid a lot of bills so by the end of the week I'll look into buying one from nosgn if it's still going to be three weeks for the Kirban one to come in. I haven't driven the car since the light came on. I would definitely hit something if I tried to drive it around town. I don't think I searched for accumulator, just on what it took to do the vaccum swap.
 
RedRegalT sells a complete vacuum system. The other choice is to wait on Kirban and still another option is to switch to hydroboost. My PM motor is slowly dying and I recently purchased a Hydroboost from another member and had the unit rebuilt. After I do a cam swap, the next change will be the brake master cylinder. If you look at a previous post, Wells talked about buying up a bunch of powermaster units. He will be able to maintain stock appearing brakes for years to come. IMHO, powermaster is a very efficient system. Too bad the manufacture did no plan for replacement parts. But vacuum and hydroboost are still available today.
 
Skillet said:
The other day as I was turning around in a parking lot I noticed my parking brake light was on. I pulled the handle but it didn't go off. I set the brake, and release, No change. I thought oh well, just a short. I mash for the brake for a upcoming stop sign and it is hard as a rock. The car doesn't slow down at all. Thankfully I was going very slow and had enough room to slow down. Is this a accumulator bowl problem? How do I test something like that? There are no obviously broken/loose lines, and no leaks either. Does anybody have anything to say for or against the reproduction piece Kirban sells? The local bone yard is showing several G Bodies in stock but I'm really not wanting to do the vaccum swap unless I absolutely have to.

Skillet,

Doesn't sount to me like the accmulator ball. Symptons of a leaking diaphram usually include a brakelight that isn't normally on but comes on when the brake is applied and then goes out as the motor kicks in and raises the pressure in the system.

Sounds to me like it never had pressure in the system. Could be the switch, could be the fuse blown. Does the motor run when you turn the key on? It should run for about 10 sec and then stop. An intermittent running without pressing the brakes is usually a sign of an internal leak in the master cylinder

Diagnostics are at

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/PwrMstr.html

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/diagchart.gif
 
aminga said:
Skillet,

Doesn't sount to me like the accmulator ball. Symptons of a leaking diaphram usually include a brakelight that isn't normally on but comes on when the brake is applied and then goes out as the motor kicks in and raises the pressure in the system.

Sounds to me like it never had pressure in the system. Could be the switch, could be the fuse blown. Does the motor run when you turn the key on? It should run for about 10 sec and then stop. An intermittent running without pressing the brakes is usually a sign of an internal leak in the master cylinder

Diagnostics are at

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/PwrMstr.html

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/images/diagchart.gif


I'll definitely look into those tomorrow afternoon. I'd hate to buy a park and it not fix the problem. I haven't seen any leaks but my car has liked popping fuses lately. That would be great if that was the problem!

BTW, I'll be at Baileyton again Friday. I'll probably be in my old mans Corvette. What did you do with the pictures you took?
 
Skillet said:
I'll definitely look into those tomorrow afternoon. I'd hate to buy a park and it not fix the problem. I haven't seen any leaks but my car has liked popping fuses lately. That would be great if that was the problem!

What fuse? That may be your problem.


[/QUOTE]
BTW, I'll be at Baileyton again Friday. I'll probably be in my old mans Corvette. What did you do with the pictures you took?[/QUOTE]

I put what I took up at http://hsvracing.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10802&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=90

DIdn't take that many. Something I intend to rectify friday night.
 
Aminga has the right idea, especially if you are popping fuses.
Run the diagnostics on gnttype.org and find your problem.
If the fuse is popping, the motor is running too much.
The high pressure side of the system must be diagnosed.
 
I posted a for sale ad on the other site for my old powermaster setup. I'm thinking I'm offering it too low based on the price of a new accumilator. Anyways, mine worked and still has the factory sticker on the bulb.
 
It has popped the fuel pump fuse twice, and popped the interior lights once. That's been a few months though.
 
Skillet said:
It has popped the fuel pump fuse twice, and popped the interior lights once. That's been a few months though.

Strang it ususally pops the powermaster fuse.(30 amp in the fuse box). Now once when I rebuilt mine it kept popping the Cigaret lighter/ security system fuse. Turns out I had pinched the wire to the hood light behind the master cylinder reinstalling it.

Again, follow the diagnostics and you should be fine.
 
I double checked my book, the "DOME/CTSY' fuse is the PM motor fuse. By my diagram, it is the only 30amp fuse in the fuse block. If it is going out, you definitely have a problem. Run those diagnostics and you can fix it.

The fuel pump fuse is another problem altogether.
 
I changed the 30 and no result. I had a long talk with Aminga last night At Baileyton and he has convinced me that it isn't the accumulator. My fuse popping excursions came after trying to jump a car off. I'm still not sure why it happened but it has happened since the first week after. As soon as the rain moves out I'll get on the dianostics.
 
Following up on this: I bought a used power master from a board member. I changed out the pump today and now I can stop! Thanks YI Work for selling me a working power master system. Also thanks Aminga for answering all my questions and talking me out of buying that accumulator ball. I would probably still be on the waiting list. Now I have a extra and a sensor!
 
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