Did a bunch of mods, now running hot and sputtering...

[cabech984]

Over the last month, I replaced/installed the following;

Duttweiler neck stock intercooler
AlkyControl Single nozzle(havent used it yet)
RJC Power plate for Kenne Bell intakes
New coil module and coilpack(old one wasnt bad but was sputtering with it after mods)
New 160 degree thermostat and billet t-stat pipe
New Felpro 9441HT Head gaskets(not blown, preventive maintenance)
New Felpro 1000 intake gasket set
Copper exhaust gaskets and turbo gasket.

Ever since I got the car running, it has been running hot. I havent given it the chance to go over 215 degrees but it will sure as hell get hotter than that. I cant seem to drive it more than 3 miles w/o it running hot. I checked my electric fan, is correctly pulling air through the radiator and blowing on the engine, I even set it up to run with key on, engine off. I havent gotten a chance to get into boost because of the conditions Im having.

It also has a part throttle sputter/miss/stumble kinda feel to it. didnt have this before the mods. If I throttle past the stumble, it seems to run fine but havent got a chance to run it much due to the coolant!

HELP!!!!!
Chris!

 

[FreeBoost]

Sounds like there's something wrong with your thermostat. Take it out and put it in a pot of water and heat. Use a cooking thermometer to see the temperature it opens at.

 

[DailyDrifter]

Are you sure you got all the air out of the heater core and the entire system? My car doesnt really go over 180. Is it a new rad or an old one? Is the fan switch connected on top of the intake? If the ECM is seeing thats its really hot it WONT add fuel to to the system (ie. cold starts require more fuel than a 100degree day) Is it lean misfiring (popping out the intake, or rich misfiring out the exhaust?) I would clean the MAF make sure all the connectors are connected at the fan switch, coolant, intake air temp sensors and go from there. Another stupid question, did you put the t-stat in right? good luck

 

[cabech984]

Sounds like there's something wrong with your thermostat. Take it out and put it in a pot of water and heat. Use a cooking thermometer to see the temperature it opens at.

Sounds like a good plan! Its a 160 degree from Kirbans. Wish I wouldve kept the old one

Are you sure you got all the air out of the heater core and the entire system? My car doesnt really go over 180. Is it a new rad or an old one? Is the fan switch connected on top of the intake? If the ECM is seeing thats its really hot it WONT add fuel to to the system (ie. cold starts require more fuel than a 100degree day) Is it lean misfiring (popping out the intake, or rich misfiring out the exhaust?) I would clean the MAF make sure all the connectors are connected at the fan switch, coolant, intake air temp sensors and go from there. Another stupid question, did you put the t-stat in right? good luck

Yes, t-stat is in correct! Could have air bubbles in the system. I have bypassed the fan switch(top of intake one). Its constantly grounded now which will keep fan running all the time. The 2 wire connector is still attached(PCM input one). Its misfiring out the exhaust.

Its an aluminum core radiator, has always been flushed and is always clean fluid when changing. It wasnt overheating before the mods and now it is. I dont *THINK* that I have blockage in the heater core or radiator. Ill test the thermostat and post results!!!

Chris

 

[cabech984]

Oh yeah, for the sputter, everything looked good on the scanmaster(minus coolant temp lol), and int was around 120(is that bad?) Everything else seemed good

 

[cabech984]

Well I am about 92% sure that I found the culprit of the hot coolant temps; The Radiator Cap wouldnt hold any pressure and its a 16lb cap! Ill be replacing the cap tomorrow and that should solve that problem.

As for the sputtering, I think it may be fuel related. I have the Fuel psi at 42psi with the vacuum line off. Im gonna set it back to the base 43psi(Turbotweak recommended) and go from there. I pulled the plugs the other night and found they were black and some were slightly wet. The plugs are NGk UR6's gapped @ .032" and have about an hour of run time on them. The only fuel related mod I did during the round of mods was replace the Napa(Carter) stock fuel pump with a Walbro 340. I even disconnected the hotwire kit to see if it was faulty. Im gonna look more into this problem tomorrow

 

[8AV8]

what inj's? you sure you have the right chip in?

 

[DailyDrifter]

If it's backfiring you might have to much fuel

 

[breiter]

I had a bad radiator cap too, causing the car to run hot. Changed the cap to one with a vent tab so I can bleed off pressure after running the car and it helped a lot. Also, more timing and the car runs hotter. When I race I run 25/26 degrees on timing and it gets up to 210 after a run. O2's always around 820 with 0 knock. Cools off quickly. Usually runs around 175/180 on street below 80 degrees. Runs around 185/190 in 90 to 100 degree weather. A little hotter with the AC on.

 

[cabech984]

what inj's? you sure you have the right chip in?

#55 siemens low impedance injectors, w/ ECM w/ Low Impedance mod done by Quad Air. I only have a TurboTweak 93 Street chip. The alky chip is in the mail.

If it's backfiring you might have to much fuel

No backfiring yet! I got into boost(approx 15psi) and my studder goes away, almost always does it at part throttle. I seem to only drive the car when its dark(usually get it to run good at 10pm lol) so I never check the puel pressure. Ill check running fuel pressure tomorrow(have it set to 43psi w/ vac line off).

I did replace the NAPA fuel pump w/ a Walbro 340, other than that I just removed and reinstalled the fuel rail and injectors. I never had studdering when the 93 street chip was set to stock settings before the mods.

I havent got the car up to much more than 65mph, so no WOT pulls to tell O2 mV yet. The car idles perfect(except for the 11v@idle on the alternator.) The alternator has always idled at 11.8v so idk if the output would have anything to do with it. It comes up to 13.2-5 right after throttle is depressed and maxes out over 14volts.

 

[8AV8]

So you DIDN'T change from your chip after the inj swap?

If that is the same chip you had with the stock inj's...that is your problem.

Let me know...

 

[cabech984]

So you DIDN'T change from your chip after the inj swap?

If that is the same chip you had with the stock inj's...that is your problem.

Let me know...

I never replaced the injectors. Since Ive had the engine, Ive only had #55 injectors and a TT 93 street chip for them.

When I got into it today, It seemed like fuel pressure was sufficient but the O2 mV went to around 050mV as soon as the throttle was hit and eventually climbed back up. Cruising IACs were 60-80ish?

 

[Blown&Injected]

Is the cam sensor right?

 

[cabech984]

Is the cam sensor right?

I need to check it but, since installing it right last year it hasnt came out of the engine and isnt loose.

I did see some fluid on the crank sensor but cleaned it off. Sputter was still there.

I swapped out the Walbro Fuel pump with a new Carter(NAPA) replacement and the sputter was still there. That gives me some peace of mind about my new Walbro pump.

Im still lost though!!! HELP!

Chris

 

[TurboBuRick]

While the car is running, unplug the cam sensor and take it for a ride.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Even though it is in that front cover - sounds like lots of work was going on around that thing...I still have the original harness in my car...

Firing order...MAF plugged in...??? Maybe go back to the known working coil/module.

 

[cabech984]

While the car is running, unplug the cam sensor and take it for a ride.

I started the car, unplugged the cam sensor(broke the locking tab on the connector ) and took the car for a ride around the block. The SES light was on(cam sensor code 41). Car drove alot better, didnt notice the stumble at all. I plugged the cam sensor back in and drove it around, stumbles as soon as throttle was pressed. Is the cam sensor bad or out of adjustment maybe? I never changed anything front cover wise during the mods, didnt even unplug the cam sensor.

Even though it is in that front cover - sounds like lots of work was going on around that thing...I still have the original harness in my car...

Firing order...MAF plugged in...??? Maybe go back to the known working coil/module.

Firing order is good, MAF is good, The old, known good coil broke a spark plug electrode thingy and when I put the new Accel coil pack onto the old known good module, the coil blew up and melted the icm.

 

[Blown&Injected]

20 years old - them plastic tabs almost always break at this age

Never happened to me but lots of cam sensors have trouble a part under the cap that works its self loose - BET THAT IS IT.

No need to move the sensor - look under the cap and be careful when ya tighten the small screws or the cap will crack as easily as that tab broke.

I think you have a cheap and easy fix before you

 

[cabech984]

I Fixed it!!!!!

I ordered a Crank sensor from Napa through my work. Sensor and bracket for $51 bucks. I got home and installed it. I think the old one may have still been good because there was alot of debris on the reluctor wheel lol. I cleaned the old sensor before but not the reluctor.

I cleaned it off good with q-tips and brake clean, installed and adjusted the new crank sensor. Fired it up and let it idle for a few minutes. Took it on the street and beat the crap out of it. Ran good, needs some tuning. Was also running on a new Napa Stocker Fuel pump. Reinstalled my Walbro 340. I can actually not smell unburnt fuels anymore through the exhaust lol.

Once the rain clears, itll be off to tuning on the country backroads 25 miles from here. Maybe next Thursday will include some tuning runs at the Track. Ill be installing my LM-2 Wideband O2!!!

Thanks for all the help guys!
Chris