Dealer wants to install another rope seal for rear?

Steves87

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
I am trying to get my rear main leak fixed. A buddy backed out of doing the job since he did not feel comfortable doing a rope seal. A local tuner shop did not want to do it stating "it will just leak again."

So now I contact about the only dealer I would somewhat feel comfortable doing the job. They said they will only warranty the job (12 months) if they use the GM rope seal as a replacement.

What do you guys think?
Have the dealer do the neoprene seal and have NO warranty or try another rope seal and get a one year guarantee.
 
You probably could have the dealer do the neoprene seal. the most important part is the use of the anearobic sealant on the face of the main cap and on the corner of the block (where the main cap meet the block) on each side of the side seal. Lots of members recommend using ultra blue or ultra black and not use the side seals. But here is the deal with the anaerobic sealant. This sealant cures in the absense of air. So once the main cap is torqued, the sealand will begin cure and not only protect the main seal, but also the side seals. It cost $5 for 2/10 of an ounce, so GM is pretty proud of the stuff. But it works. This is the same type of sealant that Porsche uses to seal their engine case (on the flat 6) together.
 
What a lame "tuner shop." Of course it will eventually leak again, but it will hold off for a while using either gasket. I didn't know people still brought their TurboBuicks to the dealer.;)
 
Originally posted by Bens87tr
What a lame "tuner shop." Of course it will eventually leak again, but it will hold off for a while using either gasket. I didn't know people still brought their TurboBuicks to the dealer.;)

Aaaah? That statement just wants me to ask, why? I am not a big fan of dealers, but considering the vehicle I wanted some sort of guarantee if the work was performed since I will have to drop $300 plus.
 
I trust no one with my car (or any of my cars for that matter) Not that it is a looker or anything but i have a lot of blodd, sweat and tears into it. I don't need some 17 yr old punk driving it.

Anyway, I would have the dealer do it with whatever they want to do it with. Make sure the thing starts to leak within the next 12 months.

After doing mine last weekend, there was nothing wring with the seal itself it was in great shape. BUT, the top piece of the seal bunched up on itelf (on the Driver side) leaving a 1/4" area of flange that wasn't sealed. Catch my drift? It was kinda tought getting it out becasue it was so tight. <<insert sick joke here>>
 
rope a dope

:) Find a good, trust worthy mechanic and use the neoprene = $200 plus parts I furnished. My good, trust worthy mechanic (known for years and all the local hot rodders use him, built race motors for years...) just got jailed for kiddy porn. The man wouldn't let some 12 year old use his scooter so came the story. Most of us believe the charges are false. Now my hunt is on for a mechanic? :confused:
 
ANS performance in Melrose Park. pete will use a neoprene seal.
708 450 1095
guaranteed no leaks.

sometimes a leaking intake end seal will mimick a bad rear main

surej
 
i did the neoprene myself with the gray sealant its been 2 years no leaks and it only took about 1 1/2 hour to do.. piece of cake. PS i run constant 22psi on my car street or track it has even seen up too 26 psi with no problems..
 
Originally posted by wiked87gn
i did the neoprene myself with the gray sealant its been 2 years no leaks and it only took about 1 1/2 hour to do.. piece of cake. PS i run constant 22psi on my car street or track it has even seen up too 26 psi with no problems..

If this is a feasible job to due in less than 2 hours I think I can get my buddy to do this. What directions did you use? Someone linked me to the Racetronic directions. He was worried when the parts guy told him that he would have to unmount the motor and possibly lift the motor to get access.
 
no need to do ethier, just take down the crossover pipe, take down the oil pan, to gain access to the rear cap, take it off and use a sharp pointy object or small screewdriver so that you can pull the top part of the rope seal, being careful not to scrach the crank, put some lube on the new seal and slide it back in, you will have to tap it slighty to make it go in on the top but it will go in, also make sure that the seal lips are facing toward the inside, when u reasemble the cap make sure you use some gray sealant on both sides specialy in the corners and put some where both sides of seal meet up but not too much., as another member mentioned here and your done. piece of cake.
 
also follow these intructions, they are very good.



Originally posted by gofstbuick
You probably could have the dealer do the neoprene seal. the most important part is the use of the anearobic sealant on the face of the main cap and on the corner of the block (where the main cap meet the block) on each side of the side seal. Lots of members recommend using ultra blue or ultra black and not use the side seals. But here is the deal with the anaerobic sealant. This sealant cures in the absense of air. So once the main cap is torqued, the sealand will begin cure and not only protect the main seal, but also the side seals. It cost $5 for 2/10 of an ounce, so GM is pretty proud of the stuff. But it works. This is the same type of sealant that Porsche uses to seal their engine case (on the flat 6) together.
 
I used a 1.5" #6 screw and threaded it into the seal on the passenger side. While applying enough downward pressure to pull it out while turning the crank. This was after the sharp-pointy-object method didn't work.
 
Thanks everyone, I will get with my buddy and see if he will reconsider doing this. I am getting tired of cleaning up oil in my driveway and garage.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. We installed a new rear main seal yesterday and it was not a bad job at all. Installed easy and not a drop of any oil whatsoever since I parked her back in the garage. Thanks again.

The only question now is what to pay my buddy for doing the job. He told me to give him whatever I thought was fair. Not sure what to give the guy.
 
It took just over 2 1/2 hours, but we took our time and spent a good 1/2 hour cleaning my buddys father-in-laws garage since he let us use his lift and shop.
 
Certainly worth a $100 to have someone you can call on anytime to help you out on a job your not prepared to do alone.
 
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