Dead TTA

[Metal]

Hi All
I posted this over in general tech the other week but I was hoping someone here could give a bit more insite.
Basically what happened is I was driving down the road on the 4th, hit a bump and the car went dead, no lights, no power, no nothing.
I towed it home and threw it on a jump pack and it started right up, I unhooked the jump pack let it run for a few then turned it off, and tried to turn it back on, as soon as the key went to the acc position it went dead again and the jump pack did no good.
Fast forward to today, I jacked the car up, opened the door and it had power and started right up.
I put her back down on the gorund and she's started up three times in a row. I haven't tried driving yet since somthing is obviously wrong but what?
Any help is apprechated.
Thanks
Jim


P.S .
The car eats battereis and will need a jump if left to sit for a couple weeks.
Sears just replaced the 3rd one in three years.

 

[BEATAV8]

I would take a close look at the condition of the grounds and battery cables.

 

[Metal]

I would take a close look at the condition of the grounds and battery cables.

The gounds I can see look good (the car has 52k on it and it doesn't appear to have ever seen a winter) The battery is new as well as the cable terminals at the battery.
The end at the starter appars ok but I can't follow the battery cable visually from the battery to the starter. Does anyone know how hard that is to change or remove? (or if it's even available)
With the engine running I shook the positive and negitive cables as best I could down near the oil filter seeing if they would short but no luck there either.
Thanks
Jim

 

[alwayscode390]

My car is an electrical mess. It starts when it wants to , just like yours. Best of luck ---

 

[Chuck Leeper]

"as the cable terminals at the battery."
I assume these are the "repair" boltons.. If so, they could well be the problem.
You have a constant drain,[as in dead every 2 weeks]. I'd be looking for that, & get it corrected.
If necessary, have custom cables made. 20 yrs on the originals is pushing it.
Eating batteries could also be due to overcharging.
Hit a bump and it dies... Could be bad wire connections, shorts in either the wiring, or a loose cell connector in the battery.

 

[Metal]

"as the cable terminals at the battery."
I assume these are the "repair" boltons.. QUOTE]

Hi
No, I replaced the little metal bolts in the cables due to them being stripped, nothing was corroded they were just a little hard to tighten cause someone used the wrong size wrench on them.
I've driven the car about 9k since buying it 2 years ago and this is the first issue I've ever had.
I have a new battery in it since it died, I took the alternator in and had it checked but something is definelty draining the battery.
I'm was leaning twords the positive battery cable being shorted.
I'm sure Grumpy has one for sale

 

[Dabigguy]

My Expedition had a issue like yours. I drove 25 minutes, got out for 2 minutes, got back in and, CLICK. Everything goes out. The bolt on the ground cable at the battery had broken. New stainless bolt, problem solved.

Does your car have a power antenna? Could be the drain. Check out this link, maybe it will help you track down your problem.

IOD Test

 

[Metal]

My Expedition had a issue like yours. I drove 25 minutes, got out for 2 minutes, got back in and, CLICK. Everything goes out. The bolt on the ground cable at the battery had broken. New stainless bolt, problem solved.

Does your car have a power antenna? Could be the drain. Check out this link, maybe it will help you track down your problem.

IOD Test

Thanks, I'll borrow a good volt meter from my buddy tomorrow.

 

[Metal]

I just found this in search.
I guess it's as good a place to start as any.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbo-trans-am-tech/159637-car-dead.html

 

[Domturbo]

Try Another Key That Chip On The Key Sometimes Shorts Out

 

[garyk1970]

as stated before,the only thing(s) that can kill a car completely is the battery/cables/terminals......

1)DO NOT go by looks....check them,take the terminals off the battery,clean inspect,reconnect.make sure they are tight....

2)check the starter for clean tight connections there........

3)check the ground from battery to engine block VERY CLOSE..........

4)check the ground from the battery to BODY......

HTH

 

[Quiky One]

Check the bolt on the positive battery cable and make sure it is not stripped. Had this problem with dads GN and of course we never thought about that.

JAson

 

[Metal]

as stated before,the only thing(s) that can kill a car completely is the battery/cables/terminals......

3)check the ground from battery to engine block VERY CLOSE..........

Checked that today it was pretty dirty between the termanal and the head, I cleaned it up with a wire brush and bolted it back together.

4)check the ground from the battery to BODY......
HTH

Gotta find that, it was getting dark.
I'll drop the starter too and check the wires there.
Thanks for the help!

Check the bolt on the positive battery cable and make sure it is not stripped. Had this problem with dads GN and of course we never thought about that.

JAson

I replaced them first thing.

 

[SlowTTA]

Had a similar problem on mine shortly after buying it. Found the connection at the starter to be loose enough to cause the same symptoms you are talking about. Haven't had a problem since.

Need to get this fixed before Woodward:biggrin:

 

[bison]

Does the service engine soo nligt stay on with the key on not cranking? You may have 2 problems. If you have verifed the integrity of the starter 12v and ecm 12v wires at the starter then you may have a bad lock cylinder. The anti-theft can be bypassed. I believe its been posted in here somewhere.

 

[bison]

Try Another Key That Chip On The Key Sometimes Shorts Out

That chip is only a resistor and the resistance can be measured with any multi-meter. Nothing in it to short out.

 

[03FatBoy]

If you are still running the original cables, they may look and appear to be fine... they can and do break down internally, and cause increased resistance. You can cause enough resistance that you can get heat bulidup, shorts, and in some cases, a fire. Moisture can get in and corrode. All sorts of gremlins can appear. Right off the bat, if original, they are 20 years old, plus you have not mentioned mileage. I would replace the cables anyway, you plan to keeping the car, right? No guarantees this is gonna solve your problem, but I have seen it happen many times! People replace the battery, the solenoid, the starter, alternator, etc...

Good Luck!

 

[turbows6]

The VATS system only stops the vehicle from starting without the correct key. At least on an 89 Trans Am. A problem with VATS won't cause the car to die if it's already running.

FWIW all you have to do to eliminate VATS is wire from the ignition switch on the steering column into the neutral safety switch (it's on the shifter in the center console) just look at a wiring diagram for which wires go to what. It eliminates 3 possible things that could leave you stranded (VATS module,relay, and resistor in the key)

I would check the battery cables and connections like everyone else said, but I'd also inspect the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. If that grounds out it will kill the car too.

 

[HouseofSpeed]

I would look at the connections at the starter...one of my Buicks had the same issue and it was the fuse link bundle at the starter solenoid.