Current TR prices
- Thread starter MoeJr
- Start date
87GN_ponykillr
Buick addict
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
Well... I just finished up picking up two TR's over the past two weeks. Another for me and one for my father so I have a good idea of the range that I noticed as I was looking in the good driver range. My best averages would be
84-85 $3K to $4,500
86-87 $5,500 to $8,000
SS/GN
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2005
I think north of $20,000 should find you a PERFECT car.By this I mean low milage(30-40k) extremely clean no rust or even dirt and original paint.I know their are alot cheaper.When I bought both of mine I wanted original paint and real clean.Both were in the $20 range.Their is alot of junk and alot of patched up cars.Paper work is also important in my books.It really depends on what you like.I am looking for one for my daughter to race and street drive and it will not be as perfect as mine as I want her to learn to look for deals and get the work done by herself or find a good deal.JMHO
Kevin
Kevin
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
"Bone stock with no mods" - good luck...
You're going to be hard pressed to find a stocker, at least one in good condition or with low miles- for a low price that is... I think the majority of what you'll find is slightly modified.
Also, like Brett said, it is a little vague... What do you consider a "good driver"... A great engine with a rusty POS body could be considered a good driver if you want to get technical... Do you want a pristine interior, with everything working and no rust and no mods and a good trans and some show quality paint? Gotta be more specific.
You're going to be hard pressed to find a stocker, at least one in good condition or with low miles- for a low price that is... I think the majority of what you'll find is slightly modified.
Also, like Brett said, it is a little vague... What do you consider a "good driver"... A great engine with a rusty POS body could be considered a good driver if you want to get technical... Do you want a pristine interior, with everything working and no rust and no mods and a good trans and some show quality paint? Gotta be more specific.
C
coach
Guest
I have a 22000 mile 87 T-top GN. I have every nut, bolt, and washer ever taken off of it. The dash gauge cluster and heater control cluster still have the factory plastic film on them. The factory floor mats are in plastic and in a box. They have never had shoes on them. The only items I do not have are the OEM exhaust and tires. It does have the "checked" factory paint. I have probably $12000 in mods and within 3 weekends, I could put it back to OEM condition. I will probably do this before it hits 30k. I am looking for an 87 T shell, but have not decided when I will grab one. If I were to sell my car modded, I would probably get $22-24k with the mileage, but if I put it back and keep the mods, I could probably get the same. Doesnt pay to sell a modded car in my opinion. Part out the mods and sell the car as factory. I learned this after modding a few cars from the 60's that I should have left stock or at least saved the OEM parts.
I have probably $12000 in mods and within 3 weekends, I could put it back to OEM condition. I will probably do this before it hits 30k. I am looking for an 87 T shell, but have not decided when I will grab one. If I were to sell my car modded, I would probably get $22-24k with the mileage, but if I put it back and keep the mods, I could probably get the same. Doesnt pay to sell a modded car in my opinion. Part out the mods and sell the car as factory. I learned this after modding a few cars from the 60's that I should have left stock or at least saved the OEM parts.Dennis Kirban
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2009
as others have pointed out there is a lot of variables.....
these cars don't stand the test of time (weatherwise) real good unless they are garaged.....
If you look in the northern climates best time to buy is in the winter. Personally, I would not pay crazy money for any 1984-1985 unless you have good mechanical skills and a parts car.
Better investment up front is purchase a 1986-1987.
Some rare ones exist so take your time....
I'd say close to 10 would get you a nice solid driver 1986-1987 vintage with under 80,000 miles and a solid roof example.
good luck in your endeavor....
denniskirban@yahoo.com
I have owned a few over the years.
these cars don't stand the test of time (weatherwise) real good unless they are garaged.....
If you look in the northern climates best time to buy is in the winter. Personally, I would not pay crazy money for any 1984-1985 unless you have good mechanical skills and a parts car.
Better investment up front is purchase a 1986-1987.
Some rare ones exist so take your time....
I'd say close to 10 would get you a nice solid driver 1986-1987 vintage with under 80,000 miles and a solid roof example.
good luck in your endeavor....
denniskirban@yahoo.com
I have owned a few over the years.
Kirban is right on the money. Not that this pertains to today, but my GN was bought back in 1997 with 26K bone stock never touched original miles, stock down to the exhaust and air box, for $10,500. You can pretty much double this price (if not more than double) for the same mileage nowadays. But good luck finding a completely untouched car. That's like trying to find a drop dead gorgeous 35 year old woman who has never got in the sack with someone. OK bad example but you get my point!
As far as the rust goes, like any 80's car, paint quality sucked and these cars would not last at all if they weren't garage kept and nice weather driven. I only drove my car in the winter for a few years back in high school and I accumulated some rust under the floorboards and frame rails. I had to sand down a few spots on the rear fenders by the exhaust tips too. Other than that, the car has seen only nice weather and always been garage kept and I haven't seen a new rust spot since. Eventually I'm doing a frame off resto...I'm taking this car to my grave!
As far as the rust goes, like any 80's car, paint quality sucked and these cars would not last at all if they weren't garage kept and nice weather driven. I only drove my car in the winter for a few years back in high school and I accumulated some rust under the floorboards and frame rails. I had to sand down a few spots on the rear fenders by the exhaust tips too. Other than that, the car has seen only nice weather and always been garage kept and I haven't seen a new rust spot since. Eventually I'm doing a frame off resto...I'm taking this car to my grave!
plan to spend 10K .If you get one cheaper great but prepare for 10k up front. look to 86-87. Maintenance is more important than miles for a driver. I have seen several 150k + cars that are way nice and more reliable than 50k stockers. If you want t-tops a moonroof or a hardtop make sure you buy the one YOU want and don't listen to the opinions on that. All 3 are 100% fine. If your close to a trusted TR mechanic I would have them go with to see it or take it to there shop and have it looked over before you buy. I will be the best $100.00 you ever spend. happy boosting !
A good driver to me is one that runs the way it should and the body has minimal rust. I do hear you about finding a stocker. I could buy one slightly modded and return it to stock. I hear the get an 86-87 arguement but I have a soft spot for the 84-85's and I have plenty of mechanical knowledge of these cars to maintain one. I now have an idea of what I need to spend. Now just gotta keep saving the money for it. Maybe this winter.
nonova0074
Member
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2006
Well I just bought my semi stocker 87 ht with 94k for 9,000 its right in the market price. It has a knink hood but got a rust free one with the car, I just primed it yesterday and going to paint it next week. the average price seems to be 10k for a nice driver. The average on a really nice gn with a mint paint job is around 15k I looked at a ton of cars, and relized I am a painter and wanted to work on my car and not show off someone else's work.
why did ya sell your old one if ya liked the "older" ones that much ?? As far as some rust ?? Rust is like cancer. It's always growing !! Sounds like you just need a HA car so it should be very easy to find.
well did some diggin here.. wasn't this yours ??
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/213701-84-t-type-sale-rebuilt-engine-price-lowered.html
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/213701-84-t-type-sale-rebuilt-engine-price-lowered.html
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
well did some diggin here.. wasn't this yours ??
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/cars-sale/213701-84-t-type-sale-rebuilt-engine-price-lowered.html
Cant mess with us old buzzards huh Dan, we are always circling
Last November I bought a completely stock WE4 with 50k miles. Original as the day it left the factory. I paid $11k for it.
I too was searching for a "driver", but ended up with a true survivor.
There are good deals out there, you have to be ready to buy when it comes up.
I too was searching for a "driver", but ended up with a true survivor.
There are good deals out there, you have to be ready to buy when it comes up.
richburke03
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
Ive got a bone stock 87 GN with 8700 original miles Any offers?
This thread is 2 months shy of being 2 years old.
Start you own thread in the for sale section and make sure to post a price. I will offer you $1 for it here though.I learned this after modding a few cars from the 60's that I should have left stock or at least saved the OEM parts.
X2 !!! I learned young also
Well have guys taken any of the advise given in this thread seeing it's an old thread ??? 
