Crankcase Evacuation with the LT1 smog pump. How To:

I have installed my vacuum pump as per ttype white instructions and am happy to say it working perfectly..(REAR MAIN LEAK UNDER BOOST 90 % BETTER)..know I want to put back my PCV and I am not sure if I should pull full vacume on crankcase (none vented ) or should I leave my moreso catch can breather open to atmospher (vented)..I am afraid if I put a check valve on the catch can and pull full engine vacuum (15 ) it will be to much and possiblely do damage???????? OPINIONS.:)
 
Put your PCV back in the same my as stock. Leave the catch can if you won't get a ticket for venting crankcase pressure into the atmosphere. Forget the check valves. This system will not pull that much vaccum to come even remotely close to 15 inches of vaccum. 4 is tops, so the catch can is over rated in this application cause you will not receive a drip of oil in it. I just ran a tube from my pump into the frame of the car instead of the catch can.
Oh ya, let me see some pics!!!!
 
TTYPE WHITE ,,,PLEASE read post 70 unix punk....this is what I mean PCV is pulling a vacuum on crankcase not just removing fumes because crankcase vents are blocked by a check valve,but I am afraid it is to much vacuum compared to ele pump vacume vacuum....I WANT TO RUN BOTH SOURCES OF VACUUM.:D
 
Hi iam doing this too my 2000 buick regal now turbo. Did you put the foam back in the pump or keep it out thanks.


-mike
 
You could probably do that easily if the XFI has an open window switch output. I had considered doing that with mine and the Gen II translator but the only window switch output is used by my nitrous system.

I haven't measured the amount of vacuum the pump pulls. I suspect that it is not very much. It also depends on how much blow by your engine has.
 
ssbc has elec vac pumps. also at summit carries them.I have one was using for vac brakes. converting to hydroboost setup.so now covert vac pump to crankcase evac.seems easy enuff plumb to breathers.
 
Pablo,

Are you still running the same engine since you started this thread back in 2007? Just wondering if you ever found out why you're blowing oil so bad.:)
 
No, I finally popped the HG on the old combo and decided to build up a girdled .030 over combo.

The old engine was definitely loose, but nothing really wrong with it aside from the blown HG (did not blow through a water jacket). All of the pistons were basically even as far as coloring and wear.

But if you are asking if there was anything specifically wrong with it, i.e. a smoking gun.. no. Just worn rings and bores. It looked like someone might have taken it apart and done a quick hone and re-ring at some point.

I still run the pump on the new combo, no leaks, though I still get some oil coming out of the dipstick on a long pass. I might need to look for the later style pump which I've read flows more.
 
No, I finally popped the HG on the old combo and decided to build up a girdled .030 over combo.

The old engine was definitely loose, but nothing really wrong with it aside from the blown HG (did not blow through a water jacket). All of the pistons were basically even as far as coloring and wear.

But if you are asking if there was anything specifically wrong with it, i.e. a smoking gun.. no. Just worn rings and bores. It looked like someone might have taken it apart and done a quick hone and re-ring at some point.

I still run the pump on the new combo, no leaks, though I still get some oil coming out of the dipstick on a long pass. I might need to look for the later style pump which I've read flows more.


That's good to hear. I'm glad that a total engine rebuild including gaskets and seals seemed to cure all but some of your base compression problems. I think people reading this post should now realize that if their engine is blowing tons of oil out the cure isn't to install a vacuum pump....it's to cure what's really their problem...leaky gaskets and seals.:cool:
 
That's good to hear. I'm glad that a total engine rebuild including gaskets and seals seemed to cure all but some of your base compression problems. I think people reading this post should now realize that if their engine is blowing tons of oil out the cure isn't to install a vacuum pump....it's to cure what's really their problem...leaky gaskets and seals.:cool:



HG blew because I decided to run the car on a very hot day on very high boost. Even so I ran a 7.3@ low 80s mph letting off well before the finish line.

I was not driving around with a blown HG. If you keep insisting something was terribly wrong with my engine I'm going to have to conclude that you are just dense. It didn't smoke before the hg issue and it hauled ass. It did what I asked of it, mission accomplished.

A strong turbo buick combo generates cylinder pressures nearly double that of what cutting edge nascar and formula one engines produce. Calculate the BMEPs of these engines and see for yourself. To believe we should be able to contain that kind of pressure is not only wishful thinking, it's fantasy. You'd have to have a lot more faith in our primitive ring sealing technology and weak cylinder bores than is realistic.

I stated from the start that my engine was certainly more loose than a fresh build but that doesn't change the fact that cylinder pressure leaks by the rings on all engines, and certainly it is more of a problem on turbo regals.

I also stated above that the new combo still shoots some oil out of the dipstick but overall leakage is greatly reduced which can of course be attributed to the fresh build. Another factor is that with the larger cam, it is quite possible and even likely that I am generating lower peak cylinder pressures.

Though I know that some of the concepts behind what I have presented in this thread are over your head, you can sleep well at night knowing that crank-case pressure issues have sometimes been a challenge to teams of engineers. Case in point, the early LS1 program had to have significant changes made to the block to deal with pressure issues that were unforeseen until testing began. There have even been subsequent revisions to production blocks to deal with these issues.
If GM was having problems with the LS program at stock hp levels and you are not with a 30+ year old smog casting with more than double the cyl pressure of it's original design parameters... well then that's some pretty amazing stuff there, maybe they should hire you.
 
i kinda understand where you are coming from...i dont consider a loose motor an immediate candidate for a rebuild....a hole in the piston or rod knock is.

ive had my share of smokey motors that i just had to deal with.
 
Any of you guys who have had one of these GM electric pumps apart: Is the pump a positive displacement type pump? Or is it more like a centrifugal blower - like the impeller in a vacuum cleaner?
That foam that is in there, what the heck is that for in the stock application? Is that supposed to be like an air cleaner?
 
The Moroso pan evacuation kits use the header collector to scavenge oil vapor from the crankcase. They plumb into the header collector. At high RPM, the exhaust gas pulses produce a vacuum in the header collector. This will pull oil vapor from the valve covers.

It works well at higher RPM with a scavenging (vacuum generating) header collector.

Most Turbo Buicks don't use a header collector at atmospheric pressure or less. Most TBs don't run run around with a lot of gear ratio or at higher than normal operating RPM. There won't be any benefit to an exhaust driven oil vapor scavenging system on a TB.
 
Ok let me start by saying hello, since I am new to this forum.

Now, I am planning on doing this same setup first to my daily driven Eagle Talon TSI since it likes to eat oil as well as blow it out the valve cover and oil pan gaskets. Just so you know the gaskets are new and the engine has been rebuilt before and is in really good shape. For some reason this car is a freak and likes to boost up around 16-17 psi which was enough to push the dipstick out until I crimped the tube. Now that I have done that and replaced the crappy, and leaky, aftermarket oil cap with a new factory one, and the PCV with one that acts as a check valve under boost, its using more oil since the crankcase pressure has nowhere to vent beside the turbo inlet and push out through the gaskets.

I have located a pump at the local salvage yard for $15 and I plan to get the Racetronix harness. Now my only issue is how do I hook this up to the engine? I'm assuming that I would keep the PCV valve for normal cruise while the engine is under vacuum. I'm just not 100% sure how I should do this so if someone could draw a good clear diagram and post it that would help alot.
 
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