Cooling oil before sending it to turbo...?
- Thread starter gdouaire
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
What we have found is you need to be more concerned about flow to the bearings than pressure.
Oil has 2 functions in an engine, one is to lubricate, and the other is to provide cooling. When the clearance is too small, you can increase pressure, but you will kill flow and bearings as well.
Since water vaporizes at 212 degrees, you need to be there to get rid of water which will turn produce acid in the oil.
As far as oil in the turbo being hot, this is probably the best place to heat the oil to enough temp to boil off the water.
The OP is over-reacting to cooling the turbo oil as it is not heat that will kill the bearings/seals, but contaminated oil and debris will. Having seen many over 100K mile GN's with original turbos, it does appear that heat is not the major turbo killer.
In fact, the ball-bearing turbo flow less than 1/2 the amount of oil as a journal bearing turbo? Not seeing them with a durability issue due to hot oil?
I guess that's why I said "want". Oil pressure is sampled as it enters the block. The only way to sample it in the bearings is to tear the motor apart.
EDIT: That's also a good point about oil temperature and water. Sandwich adapters for oil coolers apparently "fully" divert to the cooler at about 180 F. The cooler is a lot smaller than the radiator, but frankly, I'm not sure how that works out for actual running temperatures. I do know that with a cooler I lose a lot less oil to the PCV valve.
EDIT: That's also a good point about oil temperature and water. Sandwich adapters for oil coolers apparently "fully" divert to the cooler at about 180 F. The cooler is a lot smaller than the radiator, but frankly, I'm not sure how that works out for actual running temperatures. I do know that with a cooler I lose a lot less oil to the PCV valve.
Neither is that little button that wants to drill a hole in the front cover....
Yeah, I was attempting to mitigate Bison's rant about the 60 lb spring.
dartguy340
T-Type guy
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2010
I like thinking up ways to make it faster!
Quiet?? Both styles of buttons should be silent. The hard rubber button takes hundreds of thousands of miles to show wear (and not be a problem), the roller completely eliminates the wear.. but neither one of them make noise.
Sounds like you've got some investigating to do. Noisy cam sensor, timing chain slapping around, miniature gnomes with tiny 5# hammers....
You mention oil or oil coolers around here and you might as well be talking about banging some guys daughters. The can flips over and worms will go everywhere.
another fun one is saying you're going to install a chinese BOV... because you need one!
but then again, there's some people that one day might reinvent the wheel and we find out that square really is a better shape
another fun one is saying you're going to install a chinese BOV... because you need one!
but then again, there's some people that one day might reinvent the wheel and we find out that square really is a better shape
ek02
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2008
Maybe it's my oil cooler echoing off my hood while it bounces off my head....
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2008
In my opinion.....
If you have a puny radiator or make full power hill climbs in desert heat then yes an oil cooler is a good idea. Other wise... its not needed
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
If you have a puny radiator or make full power hill climbs in desert heat then yes an oil cooler is a good idea. Other wise... its not needed
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Not to beat dead horses too far into the ground, but ....
A dry sump system, where an external pump is belt-driven off the crank, allows very high oil pressure with no cam loading at all. I think for Stage 2 motors Jim Ruggles recommended something like 90 lbs at 7500 RPM, which is in line with what people have been talking about here. But that was a dry sump system.
As for the front cam bearing, Buick apparently moved the groove from the cam journal to the block bore not to improve oiling of the bearing, but quite the opposite, to take oil away from it so the driver's side lifter gallery would get more. (TA Performance has a 2-groove/2-hole bearing that reclaims some of that oil for the bearing.) If anything, then, earlier blocks would actually fare better with the high pressure pump spring than later ones.
A little extra food for thought for those already dead horses.
A dry sump system, where an external pump is belt-driven off the crank, allows very high oil pressure with no cam loading at all. I think for Stage 2 motors Jim Ruggles recommended something like 90 lbs at 7500 RPM, which is in line with what people have been talking about here. But that was a dry sump system.
As for the front cam bearing, Buick apparently moved the groove from the cam journal to the block bore not to improve oiling of the bearing, but quite the opposite, to take oil away from it so the driver's side lifter gallery would get more. (TA Performance has a 2-groove/2-hole bearing that reclaims some of that oil for the bearing.) If anything, then, earlier blocks would actually fare better with the high pressure pump spring than later ones.
A little extra food for thought for those already dead horses.
Buick Mark
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2001
Run the standard oil pump with the clearances set up properly, and the cover with Earls mods. Run the factory oil cooler (if its clean) and drive the car.
Dont try to re-engineer, these engines run 100,000 plus miles as was mentioned with the factory set-up.
Dont try to re-engineer, these engines run 100,000 plus miles as was mentioned with the factory set-up.
