Does anyone know how common having this done is? I found a shop that has the capablity to do this but won't work for the public??? The converter I want cleaned out was in my trans when I smoked the 2nd gear bands but other than that worked well before the trans gave up. I would prefer to have this done local if possible (Boston area) Anyone know of a shop in my area?
Converter cleaning/inspection
- Thread starter TR87386
- Start date
Dave Dunbar
Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2012
As long as there was no metal in the pan I would feel comfortable reusing your converter. Just let it sit neck down over night and let the fluid drain out. If you must get it cleaned, take it to a local trans shop and ask them to send it to their rebuilder.
Jeremy
Sent from my A110
Jeremy
Sent from my A110
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
I think it is a common practice. While in there the bushings/bearings can be replaced or at least inspected. Are you happy with the stall speed? Now would be the time to address that.
No telling what is in there, if it was just the band, I guess just clutch.
Ask some of the local racers where they get theirs done.
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No telling what is in there, if it was just the band, I guess just clutch.
Ask some of the local racers where they get theirs done.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
The stall speed was ok, I have a slighly larger turbo on the car now. This is a restalled D-5, "Red Stripe" converter that I used for a few years. I was happy with the way it worked and spooled. There was no metal in the pan (lots of clutch material) and when the trans failed it just flared 2nd badly at the track. I was still able to limp the car home about 40 miles without any problems. I would not take the chance of putting a "dirty" converter back in it. The trans operates perfectly, the problem is the 10.5 converter in it slips terribly without being locked. At the track I am picking up 7-8 mph when I lock it vs unlocked. Also street driving with it sucks when I stand on it, you can feel the car just driving through it. From what I read it seems that no mater what locking converter I might use they just don't couple like a non lock. So eventually I will probly go NL but for now I figured if I can get a clean bill of health on the restalled d-5 I would slap it back in and play with that for a bit.
For added security add an in-line transmission fluid filter if you don't have it cleaned and inspected. If it was just the band which likely wore over time and it wasn't the lining flaking off (that's what happened to me, the low roller clutch lining came off and locked up my valve body) you'll be fine.
I've had in-line filters on every car I've owned,, and change them regularly, they have a very small particle screen and catch what ever the pan filter misses.
I've had in-line filters on every car I've owned,, and change them regularly, they have a very small particle screen and catch what ever the pan filter misses.
