Codes!!!

[87gnblackdemon]

Car started but ran like crap and service engine soon light was flickering, scanmaster wasn't working. I was able to get the car out of the garage and let it run for a while. I jiggled the aldl wires and was finally able to get the scanmaster to work and the SES light to go out while running. Eventually the car shut off on it's on and now won't start. It wants to start but it won't stay running. I hooked up turbolink, and pulled the codes. I pulled the codes a dozen times. With the car off and key on the run position, I get about 3 codes, sometimes just 2: IAC,EGR,MAF.

After trying to start the car with turbolink running, I get 41Camsensor, 42, 51, 52, and a few others added to the list above.

Which codes do I pay attention to?
Anyone recognize these symptoms?
Where do I start?

I looked everything over and all wires are good and plugged in.
I did notice that the 3" maf pipe rubber connector is sqeezed against the IAC. The MAF is an aftermarket purchased off ebay using the Translator+Extender chip. Been on the car a few months with no problems.

 

[strikeeagle]

Simple.

Disconnect the orange wire behind your battery (powers ECM)

Ground yourself so you don't zap the ECM

Take the ECM out of the kick panel

Open the small cover (1/4" nut driver)

Carefully remove the EPROM (chip)

Check for moisture on the EPROM or the socket. Dry it with a hair dryer or ??? if necessary - eliminate the source of the moisture (e.g. leak at base of PS A pillar - seal)

Check that all the pins on the EPROM are straight and not excessively worn (thin) - straighten any bent pins gently as necessary

Very carefully clean the pins with an eraser on the end of a pencil - do NOT bend them

Blow off any residue.

Put everything back together - the EPROM only goes in one way - look at the EPROM, look at the socket - see?

Come back and thank me...

 

[Scott231]

If water is indeed a factor in the problem, then you prolly want to drain out the intercooler and use the hairdryer on the MAF sensor also. If problems still exist, I'd first try another ECM and/or MAF.

The fast flickering of the SES light means that the ECM is getting no signal from a chip...but chips do not zap themselves even when they get wet. However, a short in the ECM (from excess moisture) could take out the chip. Water is also a common problem whent he ECM starts spitting out multiple codes at (what seems like) random.

Good Luck.

 

[strikeeagle]

???

Don't see how a wet ECM relates to a wet MAF and/or intercooler.

The ECM gets wet via leakage of water into the cockpit (usually rain or hose).

 

[Scott231]

If the ECM got wet because rain got through the firewall and leaked onto the passenger footwell, then it is possible that the driver also drove through a puddle and sucked up some water in to the intake tract. The water will wet down the MAF (screwing up its signal) and then get deposited in the intercooler. Don't ask how I know...

 

[87gnblackdemon]

Thanks for the replies, this sounds like an easy fix, hopefully it is.

My chip/ecm is located under my glove box, It was moved to make room for the kickpanel pods. So I doubt water is the problem, the car's been sitting for a few months in the garage. So hopefully it's just the that the chip is seated wrong.

I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[87gnblackdemon]

You guys are the SH!T, I can't thank you enough. I checked the chip, wiring and everything seemed fine. I reseated it and turned the key, still a blinking SES light. I didn't bother trying to start it, I grabbed my stock chip put it in, turned the key and the SES light came on like normal, scanmaster came alive and car started right up. Took it for a ride, then another, the car never felt so good. All numbers are perfect, boost about 15, no knock. Thank You All, I thought I was in for some sensor replacing.

Quick question: Can I continue to run the stock chip with the 3" MAF and Translator? The translator is still set to the extender chips settings, but car ran great.