Coating brake rotors

[supercrackerbox]

I recently landed a set of Blazer front brakes off what seems to be a very low mile truck. The rotors are virgin and have no noticeable wear at all, but do have a fair amount of surface rust. There is more than enough meat to have them bead blasted and turned. Questions are:

Has anyone ever powder coated brake rotors (and then of course had them turned to clean off the pad surface)? Or would the powder coating present a cooling issue?

How about paints? I've had less than stellar results with painting them in the past, does anyone know a paint that will withstand both the heat AND the wheels being bolted up?

What other options are out there?

 

[notacarlo]

There's a reason they aren't painted/coated from the factory. You do not mess with safety equipment.

 

[supercrackerbox]

Good point.

 

[charlief1]

There's a reason they aren't painted/coated from the factory. You do not mess with safety equipment.

True but...some after market companies do coat the one piece hats. It's called E coating and it really doesn't make sense to me to do it but I haven't seen any ill effects from it myself. It burns/wears off fairly quickly off the braking surface but I doubt it makes them any better than any other rotors.

 

[notacarlo]

All the hats i have seen are from two piece rotors and they have an anti-corrosive on them if they are not anodized.

 

[charlief1]

Here's something you may want to read then Dan.

Centric Parts - Brake Rotors Black Electrocoating / E-coating

 

[notacarlo]

Oh...I didn't realize that those were called hats. Remember, polish and slightly retarded.

I thought the op was talking about the entire rotor, realizing the coating would burn off the rotor face but stay everywhere else.

The rotor I am familiar with is two pieces and you have to buy both parts separately.

I would never doubt you Charlie.....unless we were talking kitchen etiquette.:biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

Oh...I didn't realize that those were called hats. Remember, polish and slightly retarded.

I thought the op was talking about the entire rotor, realizing the coating would burn off the rotor face but stay everywhere else.

The rotor I am familiar with is two pieces and you have to buy both parts separately.

I would never doubt you Charlie.....unless we were talking kitchen etiquette.:biggrin:

LOL I can tell you don't work on "normerl" cars Dan.:biggrin: As far as the kitchen, one of these days we'll discuss it and see who come up with the better recipe.:biggrin:

 

[rmar]

The answer is yes/yes/yes............

 

[notacarlo]

LOL I can tell you don't work on "normerl" cars Dan.:biggrin: As far as the kitchen, one of these days we'll discuss it and see who come up with the better recipe.:biggrin:

No one can top my PB&J.

I will give young call tomorrow when I take a break from the hospital.

 

[charlief1]

No one can top my PB&J.

I will give young call tomorrow when I take a break from the hospital.

I get to help move an automatic car washer tomorrow but call when you can. Just want to check up on you and the family bud.:smile: Just remember dove season is just 20 days away and I have the room if you feel like coming down for a little shooting and relaxing.

 

[supercrackerbox]

I thought the op was talking about the entire rotor, realizing the coating would burn off the rotor face but stay everywhere else.

Oh no, I'm mainly concerned with the "hat" section where the wheel mounts to it. Just want to prevent rust and keep it looking new for as long as possible.

And on that note- What about my aluminum drums? 30+ years of galvanic corrosion made it hell to get them off the old rear end; I'd rather not deal with that again. Assuming there's enough meat left to have them turned of course. They look good, but I haven't measured them.

It's really difficult to guess the mileage on this car. Odometer reads 54,xxx. Some parts scream 154K, but it did sit in a field for nearly 7 years. Lack of wear to the interior, pedals, front suspension, and just remembering the condition of the car when I originally found it in 2002 make me wonder if it might be 54K original miles.

 

[charlief1]

Oh no, I'm mainly concerned with the "hat" section where the wheel mounts to it. Just want to prevent rust and keep it looking new for as long as possible.

And on that note- What about my aluminum drums? 30+ years of galvanic corrosion made it hell to get them off the old rear end; I'd rather not deal with that again. Assuming there's enough meat left to have them turned of course. They look good, but I haven't measured them.

It's really difficult to guess the mileage on this car. Odometer reads 54,xxx. Some parts scream 154K, but it did sit in a field for nearly 7 years. Lack of wear to the interior, pedals, front suspension, and just remembering the condition of the car when I originally found it in 2002 make me wonder if it might be 54K original miles.

I know that feeling. My car is currently in the shop and the odometer says 47K but I'm beginning to wonder if it's 47 or 147K after looking at the condition of the parts I've been taking off of her.

 

[rmar]

Yes you can coat it, the e-coat is probably epoxy based that means it will salt spray for a long time and be tough but will fade and quickly to a nice shade of gray...
You can PC the hub and edges if you are not racing at LeMonds or 24 at Daytona


The even make performance coatings to cool the rottor and brake to reduce fade.

 

[supercrackerbox]

Have no problem with gray, that'd probably be the color of choice anyway.

Granted, this is all overall moot anyway, as you can barely see anything through my Rallye wheels. Still, I'm picky about the details whether others can see them or not.

 

[supercrackerbox]

I know that feeling. My car is currently in the shop and the odometer says 47K but I'm beginning to wonder if it's 47 or 147K after looking at the condition of the parts I've been taking off of her.

It'd be nice if I could even look it up on Carfax or something, but it pre-dates the 17 digit VIN codes, so that's useless.

 

[regal81455]

Yes you can coat it, the e-coat is probably epoxy based that means it will salt spray for a long time and be tough but will fade and quickly to a nice shade of gray...
You can PC the hub and edges if you are not racing at LeMonds or 24 at Daytona


The even make performance coatings to cool the rottor and brake to reduce fade.

well im glad you responded Ronnie - I had already begun PC'ing the center section and rim of my new rotors in an attempt to save them from rusting - supa your thread started making me think I was going to have to re-buy them guess Ill just continue on with the coating