Car tracks very bad....help

[salvageV6]

Unfortunately on my car all the rear stuff is new including HR arms, and new bilsteins and Moog coils.

No airbags on the GN.

I think my problem is up front and either the steering box or maybe the balljoints and caster issue.

I hate driving that car it's like playing a video game always moving the wheel to stay straight. Well sorta....

Thanks for the tips, keep em coming.

 

[GNVAIR]

Hey Salvage! I just rebuild my entire suspension. I left no stone untouched. I ran into the same problem as you. It turned out to be a combo of steering box and shaft. Also check the simple things such as air pressure in tires and ofcourse.....the alignment.
Other stupid things to take into consideration are a worn drag link or idler arm. Those can cause probs too. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[salvageV6]

I certainly will, could be the tires they were almost new mileage wise when I bought it but sitting for a couple of years in various spots in the US. Goodyear Eagle II's.

I could swap out the front ones easily enough with some balanced snows. I plan on Baer fronts and redoing all the ball joints and suspension parts with Moog and all the braces etc. I would like it to drive stock now at least.

I plan on making the GN my next driver someday but salvageV6 won't let me she's jealous. The WE4 runs great now on the alky. and 24psi. with new Nittos.

Torn between two women....

 

[CanVan87GN]

I started this damn post and I'll try to end it I had the car in the shop today and found out that UNGN is correct in that the upper bushings are toast from years of heat from the downpipe! The centre link has a bit of play but is low in priority. The steering shaft was done (new) and the steering box is the next in line because it is original and has some play as well. I am doing the bushings tomorrow and will give everyone an update. Thanks all for your input!!! SalvageV6, take at look at your upper control arm bushings. Your situation sounds very much like mine. Good luck!

 

[salvageV6]

Uppers are brand new Moog on one side and fine on the other.

I'm gonna try and swap the tires over the weekend.

Steering shaft joints and arms look ok no severe play or anything.

I will keep checking the aforementioned things.

Control arm bushings cause more of a shift, often severe, over bumps.

My problem is tracking and having to make constant corrections, points to alignment of something.

I did notice the car steers slightly better/easier right than left dunno what that means. Just less resistance to the turn with the wheels to the right.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by salvageV6
I did notice the car steers slightly better/easier right than left dunno what that means. Just less resistance to the turn with the wheels to the right.

That sounds very casterish.

 

[salvageV6]

I shall endeavor to get some caster.

Most likely the problem since I doubt it was a perfectly done alignment.

I suppose I should wait 'til all the new front end parts are in it first. Gonna go with new ball joints too.

Thanks for the help!

 

[CanVan87GN]

I did my upper control arm bushings only and I should have kept them to show pics. Unreal The new bushings are in and my car does not dart around uncontrollably and I have lost a vibration in my steering wheel at 80-100 kmh (50-60mph) Thank you UNGN! The downpipe did cook them. There is still play in my steering wheel and the box needs to be replaced but the main part is now fixed. With a new steering box and new alignment, my car will be driving sweet. Cheers!

 

[salvageV6]

Get a heat shield for those new bushings. I think Kirban and/or Postens has them. They work too, at least delay the next replacements.

My wander and vibration problem was partly due to flatspotted Goodyear tires since the car sat for a long time in 2 places before I bought it. 3K miles or so on the tires but they aren't very good.

Put the snows on the car with T rims and the high speed vibration was mostly gone. Wandering was less but still there some.

I did the service manual tests and with approx. 25lb.s force on the relay arm at the idler arm it moved about the spec. limit of 1/8" play. I'll get a new GM one when I do the other front end parts and Baer brakes prolly next year.

Gotta put the spare new Michelins on the GN rims now.

Oh the battery is dead in the GN too.

PS: SalvageV6 the WE4 runs great.