cam install = popping

[jerrad]

Guys, I just installed my 212/206 weber cam and now I have popping and a miss if I stab the throttle.

I read about advancing the cam sensor a few degrees and wondered if anyone else had success with this method. To advance would I turn clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks a ton for the help.

 

[GNX026]

did you adjust the cam sensor when you reinstalled everything?
if not it sounds like you have the cam sensor timing out of adjustment.

 

[QUIP'6']

Guys, I just installed my 212/206 weber cam and now I have popping and a miss if I stab the throttle.

I read about advancing the cam sensor a few degrees and wondered if anyone else had success with this method. To advance would I turn clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks a ton for the help.

does it miss and pop at idle? you may have a pushrod that wasnt under rocker when you tightened it. ask me how i know!!!

 

[jasjamz]

Start the cam install process over again and do it the normal way.

 

[jerrad]

We used caspers tool to get the cam sensor adjusted the first time.

It doesn't pop at idle. Just when you start to rev the motor. When I drive it if I keep the throttle at a constant the popping goes away. But if I add throttle it starts to pop.

It's not violent or loud just a slight crackle.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

Guys, I just installed my 212/206 weber cam and now I have popping and a miss if I stab the throttle.

I read about advancing the cam sensor a few degrees and wondered if anyone else had success with this method. To advance would I turn clockwise or counter clockwise?
Thanks a ton for the help.

The guys in the club that I know and myself just install the cams "straight up". #1 piston top dead center, "0" on both cam gear and crank gear pointing towards each other on the crank/cam centerline. I have a degree wheel and used it on my 1st cam job many yrs ago, haven't used it since then.
If you did this and feel confident in your work, I would look at other areas, like injection harness, (my #3 cylinder failed from the EGR valve heat) also check the positive wire going from the battery to the alternator isn't touching the header and shorting out...

Chuck

 

[jerrad]

When we installed it we put the motor on tdc on compression stroke and the dots were lined up. We pulled the cam and timing set and reinstalled the gears dots together.

It doesn't feel like the car is that far off like the cam/crang gear being off, just a small crackle.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I think I would look in other areas for the engine miss. Double check the easy stuff like plug wires, plugs, vacuum leaks, ignition module, coil pack, ect.

Chuck

 

[jerrad]

Will do Chuck. Thanks for the advice.

 

[jpwalt1987]

I had this problem years ago.... turned out all I needed was to turn the cam sensor housing about 1/8th inch clockwise(while looking over the drivers side fender). All the popping went away. I had used a DVOM to set the first time. I guess it just needed a touch more. Hope this helps

 

[jerrad]

We've adjusted the cam sensor with the caspers tool and even went clock wise/counter clock wise until the car wouldn't start. It gets a little better but it still pops.

You can see/smell that the car is running rich. Any ideas?

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

Maybe you should post your scanmaster readings, car warmed up, at idle in park.

Chuck

 

[jerrad]

L8--43
int--130
BL---139
ATS--101
TPS--46
IAC--57


We started the car and unplugged the cam sensor, it runs better at a low load but under heavier throttle it starts popping more.

Car is running super rich now with black soot covering the tail pipe.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

L8--43
int--130
BL---139
ATS--101
TPS--46
IAC--57


We started the car and unplugged the cam sensor, it runs better at a low load but under heavier throttle it starts popping more.

Car is running super rich now with black soot covering the tail pipe.

INT is short term fuel trim 128 is the default number. You have 130 so the computer is adding fuel. I would look at the O2 sensor, but 130 is not way out there.
BL is "Block Learn" or in simple terms, Long term fuel memory. It works in cells, 128 is the default (not adding or subtracting fuel) 139 shows that the computer is adding fuel. Again this indicates that there is a problem, maybe O2 sensor is bad, or vacuum, exhaust leak...

ATS = Air Tempature

TPS = Throttle position sensor, .42 -.46 is good.

IAC = Idle air control, should be around 10-20 warmed up in park, yours needs adjusted

No "CC"? = Cross Counts this is a counter that keeps track of how many times the O2 reading crosses midpoint (about .450mv) starts at 0 and counts up to 255 then starts over again. This will give you a idea of the condition of the O2 sensor.

No "O2"? = Oxygen Sensor

No "AF" = Airflow readings in grams/sec from the mass airflow sensor MAF at idle should be 4 - 6 gr/sec

http://turbotweak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1191

Chuck

 

[jerrad]

The AF was at 7
The cc werecycling though so one second to the next they'd be very different.