TTA #1326 has been parked for nearly 3 years now. It started with a new Limit Stage 5 TA61 that I ran at only 18psi for quite a while. I finally decided to turn it up into the 25psi range and bought a chip from Eric to do it. As I turned it up 1psi at a time it went lean on the Power Logger around 21-22psi, don't really remember. A fuel pressure gauge on the windshield showed me 2-4 psi LESS than it should have on 3 blasts. Julio's alky kit apparently cover it though, because I had zero KR. The car had\still has a roughly 12 (now 15) year old Red's XP pump in it (with a hot wire) and got parked due to wife's health problems.
Now, I'm trying to figure out everything to get it running. I have a DW300 fuel pump from Nick and a Racetronix tank harness that wasn't available 15+ years ago. Of course I have a fuel filter, plugs, oil and filter, battery, etc (spring cleaning). My memory sucks (fact), so when I uncovered the car and pushed it out of the garage was my first reminder that it had developed an oil leak before I parked it. The back of the car is black. I also found new front rotors and AC pads in the back floor board lol.
I got in contact with another board member I consider a friend and was asked if I had ever done the timing chain (93K on the car now), and of course not. I also know that means building the front cover, oil pump, cam button, etc. The valve cover gaskets are fresh, the engine is clean topside, so I'm only guessing it's the common oil pan and\or rear main seal that's leaking oil, which puts me into overlapping work with the recommend timing chain. He's a GN guy, but knows his stuff, however, I'm here to ask my fellow owners some questions. Here goes...
Note: I've read as many posts as I can find on everything I'm going to ask, but I would appreciate any answers just to see if there are any new parts\techniques that aren't covered in some of the 10+ year old posts that I read.
1 - The oil pan (if it's leaking) will come out by jacking the engine and putting 2x4's between the mounts? Maybe a little bit of turning the crank, and maybe even easier if I do the pan while the front cover is off and the pickup is out anyway? I'm not too concerned with the rear main seal. I've done non turbo 3.8s before. If the oil pan comes off, it's getting a rear main seal, and since the front cover has to come off, looks like the oil pan, and rear main will get done regardless.
2 - Should I do this in the car? Or just yank it out? I've done worse in various cars when I was 20 years younger. TPIS heads, cam, etc, on a '96 Ram Air for instance.
3 - If it's coming out, "IF", then I'm going to do head gaskets. The car hasn't had head gaskets since 1991, under warranty at that. I like telling folks the short block has NEVER been out, but if it's coming out for the first time, it's getting head gaskets. Yes or no?
4 - Since I might be looking at some or all of the above crap, I'm going to do a leak down test on all cylinders before I do anything else. I guess I'll disconnect the ignition, put in the new battery, and spin it over until it has oil pressure, then check all cylinders? Or do I need to put something in each cylinder? I've only done this test once before on a BBC that was running fine, but had a miss. Turned out to be a bent pushrod in that case.
5 - Last for now: "IF" I get involved in all the other items, does anybody have a set of extra TTA heads? Ported, or unported? Or a set of the 25527515 bare castings? I might have Champion port a set of heads, plus the intake, and get a cam from Chris Straub, if I do head gaskets (and the bottom end checks out good).
Alex
OK, one PS. Is there anywhere to get the Turbo emblem that goes above the rear tag (not the bird)? I know about Car Motorsports, but the emblems don't have the piece I need.
Now, I'm trying to figure out everything to get it running. I have a DW300 fuel pump from Nick and a Racetronix tank harness that wasn't available 15+ years ago. Of course I have a fuel filter, plugs, oil and filter, battery, etc (spring cleaning). My memory sucks (fact), so when I uncovered the car and pushed it out of the garage was my first reminder that it had developed an oil leak before I parked it. The back of the car is black. I also found new front rotors and AC pads in the back floor board lol.
I got in contact with another board member I consider a friend and was asked if I had ever done the timing chain (93K on the car now), and of course not. I also know that means building the front cover, oil pump, cam button, etc. The valve cover gaskets are fresh, the engine is clean topside, so I'm only guessing it's the common oil pan and\or rear main seal that's leaking oil, which puts me into overlapping work with the recommend timing chain. He's a GN guy, but knows his stuff, however, I'm here to ask my fellow owners some questions. Here goes...
Note: I've read as many posts as I can find on everything I'm going to ask, but I would appreciate any answers just to see if there are any new parts\techniques that aren't covered in some of the 10+ year old posts that I read.
1 - The oil pan (if it's leaking) will come out by jacking the engine and putting 2x4's between the mounts? Maybe a little bit of turning the crank, and maybe even easier if I do the pan while the front cover is off and the pickup is out anyway? I'm not too concerned with the rear main seal. I've done non turbo 3.8s before. If the oil pan comes off, it's getting a rear main seal, and since the front cover has to come off, looks like the oil pan, and rear main will get done regardless.
2 - Should I do this in the car? Or just yank it out? I've done worse in various cars when I was 20 years younger. TPIS heads, cam, etc, on a '96 Ram Air for instance.
3 - If it's coming out, "IF", then I'm going to do head gaskets. The car hasn't had head gaskets since 1991, under warranty at that. I like telling folks the short block has NEVER been out, but if it's coming out for the first time, it's getting head gaskets. Yes or no?
4 - Since I might be looking at some or all of the above crap, I'm going to do a leak down test on all cylinders before I do anything else. I guess I'll disconnect the ignition, put in the new battery, and spin it over until it has oil pressure, then check all cylinders? Or do I need to put something in each cylinder? I've only done this test once before on a BBC that was running fine, but had a miss. Turned out to be a bent pushrod in that case.
5 - Last for now: "IF" I get involved in all the other items, does anybody have a set of extra TTA heads? Ported, or unported? Or a set of the 25527515 bare castings? I might have Champion port a set of heads, plus the intake, and get a cam from Chris Straub, if I do head gaskets (and the bottom end checks out good).
Alex
OK, one PS. Is there anywhere to get the Turbo emblem that goes above the rear tag (not the bird)? I know about Car Motorsports, but the emblems don't have the piece I need.
