Buff it out?? How to?

[NEVER ENOUGH]

I would like to get a better finish on my car. I'd like to remove some of the "orange peel" look, as well as some minor scratches. And a chip or two in the paint.

Does anybody have some good how to advice to share?

I have buffed out a few of my cars over the years (and even helped a friend of mine wet sand a car or two), but never a black car and not to the finish I hope to get with the GN and I am hesitant to do it myself. Hoping I can get it to look much better than it does. I would appreciate any and all advice and suggestions including all the products you recommend/use.

I am currently equipped with a Dewalt rotary Variable speed buffer (but that's it) just threw out the worn wool pad it had on it, so I need everything else.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Butchman]

Here is a link to Adams polishes online videos. The clay and machine polish vids might be helpful. Instructional Videos

 

[davidf]

I had one professionally done once. They wet sanded with 2000 git paper and buffed it to look like glass. The 2000 grit paper removes all imperfections leaving a super slick finish ready for buffing. Same basic procedure for show car paint.

 

[gn.87]

I'd just pay a professional to to the job. Black is not easy. I just had mine done (4 stage) compound, polish, de-swirl, wax. When it was finished I had a car that shined up to almost a new car. I was afraid I'd burn the paint with a high speed buffer and would need a 5k paint job to fix my mess up. Let the professionals do it.

 

[boomcase]

I would like to get a better finish on my car. I'd like to remove some of the "orange peel" look, as well as some minor scratches. And a chip or two in the paint.

Does anybody have some good how to advice to share?

I have buffed out a few of my cars over the years (and even helped a friend of mine wet sand a car or two), but never a black car and not to the finish I hope to get with the GN and I am hesitant to do it myself. Hoping I can get it to look much better than it does. I would appreciate any and all advice and suggestions including all the products you recommend/use.

I am currently equipped with a Dewalt rotary Variable speed buffer (but that's it) just threw out the worn wool pad it had on it, so I need everything else.



Thanks in advance.

I Have Painted and detailed many cars, a wetsand and buff will make or break the car if you are not experienced. This is sort of an art, I have seen countless cars that have had people/owners try it themselves and wetsand through clear and burn edges and even worse with a buffer. I'm not saying not to try but do not rush when doing, patiance and working small sections is key. Some advice on buffing is keep the speed down and let the buffer do the work, I hardly ever use a RPM over 800, Open hood, doors, truck when working on them and turn the buffer so it does not grab the edges when working close to them so you dont burn through the paint on the edge.

Its always better to practice on a car that you have nothing to lose on till you feel comfortable. Myself I like to use 3M products but there are other companies that I have used that worked well also. I also perfer foam pads.

Good luck and take your time.

 

[turbojay]

Here is a link to Adams polishes online videos. The clay and machine polish vids might be helpful. Instructional Videos

Great Link...thanks.

 

[aminga]

Go to Meguiar's forums Lots of tutorials there.

 

[getchasum]

Before you even start...find out what kind of paint is on the car. Some single stage paints do not buff well. You will get best results if your car has a base/clear on it. It would be a good idea to throw a gauge on the paint to make sure there's enough there to buff ( how many ml's thick is it?) or have someone with a trained eye look at it first.

Always spin the buffer off the edge instead of against the edge. That will greatly reduce the chances of cutting through paint.

If you wet sand it, use some kind of block/sanding pad or a DA wet sanding system to keep the paint flat. You'll cut high & low spots & leave finger ridges if you just use the palm of your hand. I fell in love with the 3M DA wet sanding system on the last car I did (you can get sand paper up to 3000 grit, which really makes it shine back up quick when buffing helping to reduce heat build up). Don't sand the edges the buffer will take care of them, some times quicker than you want.

**Keep the buffer flat....not turning it up on the edge.
**For someone that has not buffed many cars or is a beginner, stay w/ good 3m foam pads, as they do not build as much heat. A good quality wool or camel hair pad cuts quicker and are more aggressive but will get away from you quick if you don't know what you're doing.

If you decide to pay someone expect to pay $200 to $1,000 depending on the level of detail you want. I really doubt a $200 job would get it wet sanded thou. If so...it would be a lick & a promise & not really a detail job.

 

[INEEDAGN]

You should probably let someone else do it. Your pride and joy is not the car to learn on. You can read all the tutorials you want, but the hands on experience slinging the buffer around edges and mirros and such is something you gotta learn the hard way, on a pile of crap car. If you want to put a foam pad on and do a good once over with a light compound, swirl remover, or just plain wax, you'll probably be ok. Once you touch it with sandpaper it is a whole new ball game. You will have to be pretty aggressive to get the sanding scratches out even if they are 2000 grit or finer. It takes heat to get the scratches buffed out, and there is a very fine line between getting them out and burning the clear off of it. If you've never color sanded something before the odds of you doing an entire black car correctly are slim. And odds are good that there's only enough clear to give you one shot at it. I don't mean to sound like a pessimist but I truly believe you should leave it to a professional.

 

[GNBRETT]

You should probably let someone else do it. Your pride and joy is not the car to learn on.

Exactly!

 

[timmanis2000]

I am thinking about having this done to my car. Does anybody know a good place to get this done in Greenfield In. It only has 26007 miles on it and I want to get it really shining.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Just look around for a good body shop. They do it every day.

 

[gn.87]

Just look around for a good body shop. They do it every day. [/QUO


Bingo!!
Let a high end Body shop do it....

 

[davidf]

The key thing to remember here is, if it's factory paint, they did'nt put much on to begin with IMO in 1986/87, not in todays standards anyway. Honestly, 23 year old paint should not be left to the DIY'er. It may not take much to burn through.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

Looks like most are talking me out of doing it myself and talking me into paying someone, never thought I'd see that coming.:redface: Losing confidence.

Maybe I should buy a black hood off a junk car and experiment? But then again, that won't be exactly what I will be dealing with on my car.

I will have to check around and see if I can find someone qualified to do it. Dam, and I was hoping to do it while it was in storage and not have to drive it through the salt!
If it isn't done before spring, it ain't gonna get done.:frown:

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

I'll check around this week and weekend and see if I can find someone.:redface:

 

[davidf]

If it's done correctly, you will not regret it.

 

[getchasum]

Original paint or a re-spray?

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

at this point it is doubtful to be original, possibly resprayed a long time ago, perhaps even a warranted job.

 

[boomcase]

If you were local, I would have asked you to swing on by and give you some help with the detail job.