Buff it out?? How to?

[turbojay]

I'd just pay a professional to to the job. Black is not easy. I just had mine done (4 stage) compound, polish, de-swirl, wax. When it was finished I had a car that shined up to almost a new car. I was afraid I'd burn the paint with a high speed buffer and would need a 5k paint job to fix my mess up. Let the professionals do it.

How much did all that cost you? Thanks.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

If you were local, I would have asked you to swing on by and give you some help with the detail job.

And that, would have been much appreciated...

 

[getchasum]

at this point it is doubtful to be original, possibly resprayed a long time ago, perhaps even a warranted job.

Hate to say it this blunt but if you're unable to tell weather it's a repaint or not, your best bet is to let someone with a trained eye take care of the job.

The factory lacquer is a soft paint, not very forgiving if you get it to hot. You could consider it very delicate as well being it’s age.

 

[626gn]

The key thing to remember here is, if it's factory paint, they did'nt put much on to begin with IMO in 1986/87, not in todays standards anyway. Honestly, 23 year old paint should not be left to the DIY'er. It may not take much to burn through.

Hate to say it this blunt but if you're unable to tell weather it's a repaint or not, your best bet is to let someone with a trained eye take care of the job.

The factory lacquer is a soft paint, not very forgiving if you get it to hot. You could consider it very delicate as well being it’s age.

Some very good advice above. Would also add, finding out current paint thickness using a paint thickness meter would be helpful before deciding to proceed.

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

Good info here.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/sh...pair/297787-possible-polish-out-3d-marks.html

Happy spooling.

Mike Barnard

 

[getchasum]

My last cut & buff project...Maybe I should call it over haulin my wallet project.

Anyways white is so much easier....

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/sh...02178-finally-paint-after-1-5-years-prep.html

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

If some around here knows someone that might be able to handle the task OR would be willing to teach me the right way, let me know.:biggrin:

I was hoping to do this before I put on my new weatherstrips, bumper fillers, emblems (hood), and key cylinders.

Thanks.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Tim, whats your main objective? Is there orange peel? Or is it more shine that you want? Do you have a buffer?

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

yes, mainly the orange peel and light scratchs.
would love to get rid of a few chips too.
I dont mind pulling all the mouldings either to get it the best it can get without needing paint.
Ive really been wanting to wax it, but figure I want the finish better first.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

oh and yes, have a dewalt variable speed buffer.
I've been meaning to stop in bumper to bumper or sherwin williams to see their supplies.
Haven't made it yet:redface:

 

[mat231v6]

the way to get rid of orange peel is to wet sand the car. start with 1500 then move to 2000 then 2500 if you want to have a show car finish go to 3000. then you buff with a variable speed polisher/buffer start out slow with a rubbing compound. then move to a less agressive compound till it is the way you want it should take 14 or more hours to buff and wet sand the whole car.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

Is there a technique that "magnifies" the swirl marks to see how The buffing is going? Would flourescent light or incandescent reflect the scratches better?
It always seems sunlight makes scratches show, how do I simulate that effect indoors up close?
Any advice?

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

FYI- I am now armed with wool, white & black foam 3M pads.

 

[alwayscode390]

What tool do you guys use to see paint thickness? ---

 

[TurboBuRick]

Is there a technique that "magnifies" the swirl marks to see how The buffing is going? Would flourescent light or incandescent reflect the scratches better?
It always seems sunlight makes scratches show, how do I simulate that effect indoors up close?
Any advice?

The florescent lights in my garage are worse than the sun. They show everything.

If you really want to see what buffer is doing to the paint, get a grinding wheel and a flat piece of steel. The swirl marks made by a grinder will be a exaggerated example of what the buffer is doing to the paint.

 

[sykegn]

be real careful with that wool pad!! you may want to contact s&s automotive and inquire about their silk pad its less aggresive with way less chance of burning the paint. they sell 3m products as well as their own brands of pads and compounds. they are located in elmhurst, illinois

 

[626gn]

What tool do you guys use to see paint thickness? ---

Electronic paint thickness gauges come in many different types of brands. The cheaper ones measure in mils only. The more expensive ones measure in both mils and microns which is a smaller unit of measure and is more desirable when doing wet sanding. Sometimes a mil reading will not change that much while sanding, whereas, a micron reading will constantly change. Hope this helps.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

I was on a job today, and what's the chances I overheard a commercial on tv about a new buffing system. And his sample car was black. I dropped what I was doing to see the details. (speed channel I believe)
He proceeded to buff the car at a piece of tape he put on the hood. Then used a handheld flourescent light to show the difference between the buffed and not buffed side. So I guess that is the answer to my question.
I guess I should get that channel.

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

The florescent lights in my garage are worse than the sun. They show everything.

If you really want to see what buffer is doing to the paint, get a grinding wheel and a flat piece of steel. The swirl marks made by a grinder will be a exaggerated example of what the buffer is doing to the paint.

That's kind of what I was looking for, a flourescent light should help identify problem areas. Good thing I have few in mine too. Should help the job along to make sure I don't make the car worse

 

[NEVER ENOUGH]

Just a question or two.
Should the buffing process create any heat on the panel getting buffed?

Is the correct method to apply the compound to the foam, set on the car, then pull the trigger slowly?

I assume after polishing in one spot (section) at a time, I will use up the compound applied to that spot instead of having a coating that needs to be wiped away (like waxing), right?