Brakes!!!

[Orion231]

Ok my brakes are awful! I do have vaccum brakes, and the front rotors, calipers, and pads are all new, and I also have a billet aluminum TTA vaccum block with tap... I cannot hold any boost at all, and the brake pedal is way too soft, so I was goign to completley bleed off the entire system and flush it with new fluid and start over. Should I also upgrade the back brakes to longer shoes and s10 wheel cyclinders? How do I go about doing all of this...? Please give me some hints, In have to drive to Conroe everyday for work and have two days to complete this task.

 

[Orion231]

Just so you know...

I do have the factory service manuals and I am digging through them reading about the brakes, but give me some hints and tips...

 

[Roger]

Check www.gnttype.org

Long ago GM had a service buletin about upgrading the combiner . The original is cast iron & the upgrade is brass. I understand that soft pedal was the reason for the upgrade. I never had the pedal problem, however the new combiner cost about $85 at the local GM dealer. My new (rebuilt - lifetime warrranty $199 at Discount Auto Parts) had a disclamer in the instructions concerning their warranty & the combiner.

 

[Orion231]

Combiner?

What is a combiner and is it used on vaccum brakes also? Where is it and how do I check to see if dad replaced mine already?

 

[Orion231]

Gn Ttype...

I have been looking for Tech articles...where is it located??

 

[tc86gn]

Are you guys referring to the proportioning valve?

 

[Nick Micale]

Yes, you should start over. First, bleed the master cylinder which means you must dis-connect the lines. Make sure ALL air is out of it. Then bleed the wheels being sure to never let the master cyl run dry. Done properly, that should take care of the soft pedal.

Do not worry about the combo or prop valve being a problem. Never seen this give any problem on a Regal yet.

 

[Orion231]

Bleeding

Ok I have not bled many brakes before. I disconnect the lines that connect to the master cycliner and then just let all the old dirty fluid run out? And fill it up when it is empty? Then reconnect, bleed the fronts and the rear brakes while adding fluid to maintain level? Is there a particular bleed order? Thanks!

 

[salvageV6]

After the master cylinder bleed, the order is passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front drivers front.

 

[Nick Micale]

Dis-connect the lines and let the old fluid run out of the MC. Fill it and connect the lines loose. Let new fluid seep for 5-10 minutes. Tighten the lines and have some push down on the pedal and hold. Loosen a line, let fluid and possibly air escape, tighten line and release pedal. Do this on both lines until no more air is present.

Now bleed the wheels starting with the one furthest away from the MC. Bleed each one until no air is present.

Again, after starting bleed procedure, do not allow MC to become empty or you must start over.

 

[tc86gn]

Bleed your brakes like this. Ensure the resevoir is topped off. Start at the right rear wheel. have an assistant pump up the pedal a few times and then hold down pressure on it while you open the bleeder valve. After you open the valve you may hear some air escaping as your system is completely dry if you flushed it. This is normal for the first few times. DO NOT let assistant take foot off of pedal until you are sure you have closed the bleeder. (This will be counter productive because if he lifts up on the pedal with the bleeder open you just suck air back in it.)Once the bleeder is closed have him pump it up again and hold it. Repaet this process at the right rear until you have fluid with no air coming out. Then the left rear, right front and then the left front. Simply repeat the process for each wheel.
It can be a little messy but easily cleaned up with some Castrol superclean and a water hose. Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the mastercylinder and do not let it go dry as you will be pushing air instead of fluid through your lines. Always check your fluid every couple of bleeder openings.
Hope this helps,
Tom

 

[salvageV6]

Wait'll you see the cool little bleed screws in the rear brakes.

Almost worth getting the special tool the factory uses to bleed them.

Once you loosen the bleeder screw from it's frozen state I then would run a hose through the short 1/4" drive socket,(I forget the size) and open and close the bleeder with a pair of vice grips locked onto the socket. Then the air, water, and nasty brake fluid can be directed into a coffee can or some other container and won't make a mess.

Good luck.

 

[Orion231]

Bleeding

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the tips! Ok so tomorrow I can do this with some help, and after I have flushed and bled the system entirely, if I still cannot hold any boost what should I do next? Start working on the rear brakes?

 

[tc86gn]

Thats as far as I can help you. some of the experienced guys are gonna have to help you out there.

 

[GNandGS]

Im making an assumption (uh-oh) that you are not letting that brake fluid go just anywhere...

Shawn