Brake line question

[1buick]

My rear brake line on the drivers side has a bad leak under the driver's door. I think it has rusted out. Does anyone know where I can find one and the cost? I checked Kirbans and Gbody parts website last night and couldn't find them.

 

[TurboBuRick]

nos4gn has them

 

[novaderrik]

inline tube if you want a direct fit, your local parts store if you don't care about making it correct.

 

[Roger]

I buy correct length tube from my local auto parts store & bend it like the original (clone it).

 

[novaderrik]

keep in mind that the chunks of pre-flard tubing you buy at the autoparts store are not going to be the same quality as the oem lines and (i'd hope) the premade aftermarket lines.

 

[autocheckman]

buy one and cut it to length

 

[chopped39]

My rear brake line on the drivers side has a bad leak under the driver's door. I think it has rusted out. Does anyone know where I can find one and the cost? I checked Kirbans and Gbody parts website last night and couldn't find them.

Classic Tube sells stainless line kits for turbo cars. This number was posted before 716-759-1800 ask for tim he has a gn. get the stainless lines. Factory brake lines and straight tubing are copper lined .What is the biggest contaminant in a brake system? Copper. Thats why you want stainless lines. That will help prolong the life of your power master also. good luck

 

[GNRick]

I just bought a new brake reservoir from Kirban and decided it is a good time to replace my brake lines too. How big a job is it? Sounds like it won't be easy at the proportioning valve. Are they also held down to the frame with rusted screws? Both Classic tube and NOS4GN sell stainless for $179.

 

[Red Regal T]

Perhaps you could get a direct fit, original piece, but you'll never get it in there unless you take the body off. There is absolutely no access to that area. You can either run a new line where you can, or cut out the rusted area and install new line with compression fittings to fix the problem. In any case, a PIA job.

 

[Red Regal T]

Making any progress?

 

[Pronto]

Compression fitting on brake lines?
Do it right, please!

 

[GNRick]

Making any progress?

Possibly a winter project.

 

[Turbo Loyd]

Just had to replace the section of line from the proportional valve to the rear flexible hose at the differential on the blue Regal. Yes it started leaking in the area under the door.

Parts used
1 - 30 inch section of 1/4 steel brake line (Weatherhead catalog number S430) with Standard Flared ends and 7/16–24 tube nuts
1 - 60 inch section of 1/4 steel brake line (Weatherhead catalog number S460) with Standard Flared ends and 7/16–24 tube nuts
1 - 20 inch section of 1/4 steel brake line (Weatherhead catalog number S420) with Standard Flared ends and 7/16–24 tube nuts
2 - Brake line union (1/4" line to 1/4" line (7/16–24 thread on tube nut) (Weatherhead catalog number 302x4)
1 - Dual Master Cylinder Adapter 1/4 (9/16–18) inverted male thread to 1/4 (7/16–24) inverted female thread (Weatherhead catalog number 7908)
1 - 12 inch section of 1/4" Plastic Split Convoluted Tubing Wire Loom

Used a 30 inch section of 1/4 line with the standard 7/16–24 tube nuts on each end to replace the section above the frame from in front of the rear tire to the fitting on the hose with the spring clip through the frame member. The 7/16–24 tube nut fit the end of the rubber flexible hose. This length puts the other end just outside the frame rail for connection with a 1/4 inch tube to 1/4 inch tube brake line union (1/4" line to 1/4" (7/16–24 thread), (Standard Flare) ‘S’ Series Weatherhead catalog number 302x4).

From this point forward I used a 60 in. length of 1/4 inch tubing duplicating the bends from the inner frame rail inside the frame and above to connect to the first 30 inch section of tubing. I went behind the attachment point for the transmission mount and did not follow the bends out and around like the original brake and fuel lines. At the end I used a second 1/4 inch tube to 1/4 inch tube break line union (1/4" line to 1/4" (7/16–24 thread), (Standard Flare) ‘S’ Series Weatherhead catalog number 302x4).

The last piece I used was a 20 inch section of 1/4 inch line from the proportional valve which needed an adapter 1/4 (9/16–18) inverted male thread to 1/4 (7/16–24 thread on tube nut) inverted female thread (Weatherhead catalog number 7908) to which the standard tube nut of the 1/4 inch tube connected. This line should extend back to the union on the end of the 5 ft, (60 inch) section of tubing in front of the cross member mount point with a little to spare.

I was careful duplicate the important bends near the connection points and around the frame, and most importantly used the original clips to mount the tubing to the frame where it was originally. The tube ended up swinging up in front of the fuel filter and not behind it, so I used some 1/4" Split Convoluted Tubing Wire Loom to avoid rubbing directly against the brake line tubing.

This is a time consuming and dirty job, so take your time and go easy bending the tubing so you do not kink it anywhere.

Note I have given you the nominal size and the thread pitch for the tube nuts and other fittings, for reference.

For instance a 1/4 inch line uses a tube nut that is 7/16 in outside diameter with a thread pitch of 24 threads per inch. Therefore the 7/16-24.

The thread going into the proportional valve is 9/16–18 (or 9/16 outside diameter with 18 threads per inch).

Sorry for the length of the post, but this should be of help who need to get the car back on the road right away. These parts are not that expensive so if you kink a line, toss it (after getting the hang of it by trying other bends) and get another one.

 

[GNRick]

Loyd, thanks for the detailed reply. My mechanic estimated a 3 hour job, and he suggested that I buy the pre bent line which sells for $179. So at $70/hour it would cost around $400. Since I've never flared a fitting before, should I buy the pre-bent line? Should I let "the man" do it? I know it sounds expensive, but these are my brakes, after all. AND, should I do the fuel line while I'm at it? Thanks.

 

[chopped39]

Loyd, thanks for the detailed reply. My mechanic estimated a 3 hour job, and he suggested that I buy the pre bent line which sells for $179. So at $70/hour it would cost around $400. Since I've never flared a fitting before, should I buy the pre-bent line? Should I let "the man" do it? I know it sounds expensive, but these are my brakes, after all. AND, should I do the fuel line while I'm at it? Thanks.

$400 That better be for replacing all the lines.The $179 is the kit for the whole car not just the main line. If you replace the main line its not real bad to do. If you have problems getting the rear part of the line in you can always remove body bolts and lift the body on that side.If you get a 4x4 between the frame and body you should be able to get the line in and out. The way to do it is lift the body loosen all the clamps that hold lines down dont get to crazy because the fuel lines are probably not in real good shape.cut the line at the prop valve so you can use a socket to remove fitting. If your getting the $179 kit get the stainless flex hose kit also that way you dont have to try to save the rear hose.or the front hoses. make sure all the bleeders open before you do anything.If not the upgraded wheel cylinders are in order. Make a winter project out of it. The main fuel line sucks with the body on the frame. If you buy the fuel line get it from classic tube .I used inline tube and had nothing but nightmares with the fittings leaking because they did not make the ends right. I think some people on here had the same problem years back.good luck

 

[GNRick]

$400 That better be for replacing all the lines.The $179 is the kit for the whole car not just the main line. If you replace the main line its not real bad to do. If you have problems getting the rear part of the line in you can always remove body bolts and lift the body on that side.If you get a 4x4 between the frame and body you should be able to get the line in and out. The way to do it is lift the body loosen all the clamps that hold lines down dont get to crazy because the fuel lines are probably not in real good shape.cut the line at the prop valve so you can use a socket to remove fitting. If your getting the $179 kit get the stainless flex hose kit also that way you dont have to try to save the rear hose.or the front hoses. make sure all the bleeders open before you do anything.If not the upgraded wheel cylinders are in order. Make a winter project out of it. The main fuel line sucks with the body on the frame. If you buy the fuel line get it from classic tube .I used inline tube and had nothing but nightmares with the fittings leaking because they did not make the ends right. I think some people on here had the same problem years back.good luck

The 3 hours labor included doing all of the lines and bleeding the brakes. He said if he had to bend the lines it would add to the labor price, which is why he said to just buy the pre bent lines. NOS4GN has them. Is this all I would need? Maybe I should ask Glen to make sure he doesn't get them from Inline Tube. Also, I recently replaced the body bushings and used new bolts, so at least that part should go easy. Thanks. Lines - Brake Hard Line Kit - Stainless Steel

 

[chopped39]

The 3 hours labor included doing all of the lines and bleeding the brakes. He said if he had to bend the lines it would add to the labor price, which is why he said to just buy the pre bent lines. NOS4GN has them. Is this all I would need? Maybe I should ask Glen to make sure he doesn't get them from Inline Tube. Also, I recently replaced the body bushings and used new bolts, so at least that part should go easy. Thanks. Lines - Brake Hard Line Kit - Stainless Steel

That is the ones you need. I never used inline tube brake lines. the problems I had was with their fuel lines. .I dont see the stainless flex lines on NOS4GN'S site.gbody has the flex lines for 99.99.get them. it will make the job easier because the old lines can just be cut off instead of messing with all the connections plus its a nice upgrade.Thats a good price for all the lines and bleeding. good luck

 

[GNRick]

That is the ones you need. I never used inline tube brake lines. the problems I had was with their fuel lines. .I dont see the stainless flex lines on NOS4GN'S site.gbody has the flex lines for 99.99.get them. it will make the job easier because the old lines can just be cut off instead of messing with all the connections plus its a nice upgrade.Thats a good price for all the lines and bleeding. good luck

The flex lines just replace the front rubber hoses? Or do they replace the line going to the front hoses? Or am I missing something here? GBodyParts.com Online

 

[chopped39]

The flex lines just replace the front rubber hoses? Or do they replace the line going to the front hoses? Or am I missing something here? GBodyParts.com Online

They replace the rubber hoses from frame to front calipers and rear hose from frame to rear axle housing.

 

[GNRick]

They replace the rubber hoses from frame to front calipers and rear hose from frame to rear axle housing.

Thanks, I get it. I already replaced the front rubber hoses going to the calipers. So I guess I just need the rear hoses to the rear brakes, in addition to the hard lines from NOS4GN which I ASSume go from the proportioning valve to the block on the rear axle housing. Maybe I should actually crawl under the car and see how all this fits together