Brake Help

[Pliskin1]

Hi all. Apologies ahead if this isn't the right place to post this.

No surprise, I'm having some issues with my PM. 51,000 miles. All original. No brake light on, no hard brake feeling, but when the pedal is depressed she's leaking fluid. I haven't determined exactly where its coming from (proportioning valve??). The level in the reservoir does not drop. (Actually, even when starting the car, the fluid is not being sucked down).

To be clear - I have very limited mechanical abilities. (Yea, I know - great idea with a 27 year old car, huh!). I have been reading on here to try and learn what I can. I know what the reservoir is. I know what the master cylinder is. And that's probably about it!

Normally Jim Dunn in PA would be doing my work. But being 110 miles away, can't exactly drive it there. I'm wondering if there's anyone local in NJ (I'm in Morris county) that would be willing to give a hand? I'm not a rich guy, but I understand time is money, and I would pay you for your time.

I have my "every day" mechanic of 14 years that runs a large garage, but neither the owner nor any of his 3 mechanics are familiar with this system. I trust them, but I get a bit particular about my T.

Open to suggestions and help. Thanks in advance.

 

[zeus87gn]

If your PM is truly original, it will have a black pressure switch on top and an all black accumulator ball without the embossed nut on the outside towards the fender
A picture will confirm this
If this is really the case, you may want to consider replacing the pressure switch to the grey one and the acc ball to the 2nd generation ball (with the yellow inked on label and the embossed nut on the outside)
The early PM units had lots of problems with these
You're on the right track - find experienced help then hunt down that leak

Diagnostics and maintanence info are here on the site
Hopefully someone will chime in here that is cose to you and willing to help

 

[Pliskin1]

Thanks Zeus. Appreciate it. I'll snap a picture tonight. I think it might actually have the gray switch on top.

It would be great to find someone local to hopefully help me with this problem. One way or another, I'll get it sorted. Just want to do it the "right" way.

I've read multiple other threads. Seems I got 3 choices.
Convert to vacuum (I have a stock cam and will probably keep it that way).
Replace the PM with a rebuilt from Kirban or other
Upgrade to a Hydroboost

Why does it seem that most people just want to avoid the PM when it fails? I'm only basing this on stuff I read, but seems like most people go to vacuum rather than back to a PM. Are they that unreliable?

I need my "fix" to drive the car, and it kills me walking by it in the garage several times a day.

 

[zeus87gn]

The PM can be a troublesome little sucker if its not properly cared for
Preventative maintainence is the key to make a PM last
It took me some time to figure these damn things out and I still feel that I don't know everything

Where is the leak appearing? Under the car?
Maybe we can narrow it down to some possibilities

Something to note, the fluid level in the bowl will not drop when you turn on the key if it's already pressurized
The level should be at or below halfway under normal operation
If its full during these times, its actually overfull

 

[Pliskin1]

Here's a picture that I snapped last night - was kind dark out and this is just from my cell.

 

[bison]

With the key on remove the cover and snap a pic of the fluid level


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[Pliskin1]

With the key on remove the cover and snap a pic of the fluid level


BPE2013@hotmail.com

I can do that. I actually tried that last weekend (after the car sat for a day), although I didn't have the cover off. The fluid level didn't move a hair as far as I could tell. Would it make any difference with the cover being off?

I do know the fluid is dirty. I'm sure that didn't help the PM (Keep in mind I just picked this car up in February so still sorting through issues one at a time or as they pop up).

Thanks!

 

[Pliskin1]

Not sure if this will work. Here's a 22 second video I made the other day. Ignition on, car not running, wife, pressing on the brake pedal.

View My Video

 

[gsgnnut]

After 3 near death experiences with failed PMs Im probably biased and this will no doubt ire the PM purists but ditch the PM like a bad habit and go vacuum and be done. Some will tell you regular fluid changes will prevent PM failures but I did that and still had 3-4 scary failures in a 20 year period. When I complained to Cotton's Performance about the damn PM problems he proceeded to walk me around his shop to look at all the cars he works on- nearly all were converted vacuum. He knows more about these cars than anyone I know and If he says the PMs are junk than that's good enough for me. My Vacuum conversion was very inexpensive ( under 100 bucks) Hydroboost is next best but a bit more expensive. If your a purist better get ready to spend serious coin 1000+ on rebuilt PMS. Good luck!

 

[zeus87gn]

Oh damn! That PM sounds horrible!
Its good that you have the right switch and acc ball - no need to replace anything...yet

Either its full of air or the pump is on its way out - I'll guess air, but I'm hoping for the best
I didn't see any signs of leaking in the video
Where do you find the leaked fluid?

 

[Pliskin1]

I did manage to find the leak - no surprise coming from the lower part of the PM and shooting fluid all over the fire wall.

I'm still considering options, but think I'm going to lean towards the vacuum conversion. Why? I guess at this point mostly a price issue. This is a weekend driver for me with a few upgrades or mods here and there. Sure, someday I'd like to have the car running like some of the other sweet rides on here, but I know that's a long way off (despite the fact that I want it done NOW!).

Thanks everyone for your help and input. Looking forward to getting my ride back on the road sometime soon.

 

[gsgnnut]

Smart move. you will not regret it. Do the swap right and don't forget to get the plenum vacuum block made specifically for connecting the vacuum line to the power booster. The TTA used them and Cottons performance and other perf suppliers have plenum vacuum blocks for vacuum brake conversions. Easiest and cheapest way to do it is find a plane ole regal or any G body in a bone yard and nab the brake pedal ( its different than the turbo pedal) the booster and master. otherwise just buy a new booster and modify the turbo pedal. I got lucky and found a regal with a new master and paid a whopping 50 bucks for the whole deal but even new it should be under a couple hundred for all the parts. the install is not hard but working upside down under the dash is the worst part of the job. The whole job can be done in a couple hours if you know what your doing.

 

[craig85006]

Hello. I have an 87 T-Type, and I am having issues with the brakes. The brake pedal is rock hard and the E-Brake light is stuck on. Inasmuch, the powermaster motor is running continuously. I have replaced the accumulator ball, the brake switch and the problem still persists.

ANY IDEA to what else could be the issue? Do I need to replace the entire powermaster system? If so, vacuum conversion, here I come!

Please advise.

Thank you.

Craig Lambert
Phoenix, AZ

 

[Pronto]

Search posts by zeus87gn. He's got excellent advice on the powermaster.

 

[buddy]

..