Boxing the frame. Moving-in rear frame.

TurboChrisBenji

New Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Does anyone make pre-cut pieces for boxing the frame? Has anyone tried moving-in the rear frame-rails, instead of notching, in-order to fit big tires and still keep the stock-style suspension? I want to try and fit the Mickey ET Street Radial 345/35R18.
 
There is a bunch of info on "Frame Notching", do a search and you will find everything you want to know. I just finished a notch and am fitting 15x10 rims with 28.5x12.5 et streets.

Research carefully, there are some pitfalls to boxing the frame rails and fitting the body back on.

Not sure about the 345's, I know there are a bunch of guys running 325's.
 
email me...

I have some pics of an unknown member doing similar to what your asking,
I'll send you the pics.
you'll have to relocate the springs, shocks, sway bar, fuel lines, brake lines, etc, etc. plus tub the fender wells, lotta work, !!!!!!
email cruzn57@yahoo.com
 
I would suggest just cutting the frame at the seam, and then driving the section INSIDE the frame. You can reduce the section by about 1/2. Then just stitch weld it all together. If you want a real stealth look, you can "fish mouth" both ends ,where you cut vertically, and hammer them together and weld and grind. It will look factory. I agree that the frame is REAL weak in that area, and if you push up and down on the car with a hole in the body above the spring perches, you can SEE the frame flex at the spring pocket.:eek: I welded a cross bar across the spring perches, and added an "X" between the down bars to stiffen it up. After that, you could place a jack under the frame, behind the rear tire, and pick the WHOLE car up on the opposite front tire!!!! It also had bars from the front lower control arms attatch points to the front frame section, too. Plus, I added bars from the roll bar, through the rear seat halves, to the upper control arm attatch points. It was REAL stiff. Then some JACKAZZ stole the car!!!! Hope the Karma gets 'em!!!:mad:
 
I have some pics of an unknown member doing similar to what your asking,
I'll send you the pics.
you'll have to relocate the springs, shocks, sway bar, fuel lines, brake lines, etc, etc. plus tub the fender wells, lotta work, !!!!!!
email cruzn57@yahoo.com

We actually did a coil over conversion on the GBodyParts.Com car. Would have been trivial to move the frame in some after that. Far as widening the wheel well, that would have been pretty simple too.

It all comes down to how handy you are.. we're fortunate to have a good fabricator.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys. I am pretty handy. I've thought about replacing that section of frame with rollbar tubing, similar to a tube-chassis car.
 
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