boost issue!!

[upslp]

Ok I'll start from the top: Car was a turd outa the gate before cuz the wastegate rod was adjusted so far out to make 16LBS, that the puck was open all the time. It would take forever to boost as you could imagine.

PART 2
I adjusted the rod to stock car spools like a bat outa hell but all the way to 22-23LBS. I came out 1 turn so that I dont have to pull the rod to put it on the puck, still 21-22lbs. My question:

What is the problem?? How can I get it back to 16-17 LBS? Is the actuator the problem? Is it the boost solenoid?

PLEASE HELP!!

 

[Junior Samples]

Are ya getting knock at 21#s? how much?

 

[upslp]

boost issue

Didnt stay init long enough to find out! As soon as it hit over 20 I let go and thankfully didnt get knock!

 

[bmackinnon]

Sounds like you may have a HD actuator. The difference is the spring inside the actuator, and they make more boost, like you are seeing, with the rod adjusted as loose as possible. Others may chime in here (hopefully), but I'm not even sure that you can lower the boost with an adjustable boost controller (manual valve type like the RJC)?? You may need to swap to a regular actuator. Be warned!!!, let me say it again, BE WARNED!!, you better stay out of the gas until you get this solved, because at that boost level, without the injectors and alky you're planning, and without the proper tune, you WILL blow a headgasket..... or worse.. Watch the scanmaster for knock retard, and WHEN you see it, it may be too late.....

 

[upslp]

boost

Changing the actuator tomorrow! Hope it works out with that! I have read a couple of threads about running the boost line "tuner style" how exactly do you do that?? I know you no longer use the booste solenoid!

 

[corsair231]

You can port the wastegate hole and it will help. I was in the same boat and couldn't get my boost dialed down enough to not knock unless the puck was off of the seat like you said. I ported the wastegate hole and was able to adjust it to where it spooled decent at 16-17 lbs and didn't creep. Of course I got alky and turned it in a couple of rounds and now I don't worry about it (low boost, knocking, surge, creep) any more. :biggrin:

 

[Junior Samples]

The actuator rod hole should be 1/8th from the puck tang closed for initial adjustment then of course in threory one full turn equals 1#

the tuner style is line from comp port to actuator, use for testing

once you get new injectors and ttchip you can better tune for knock, I had mine to 21#s no problem before alky by playing with my fuel and timing but another car from local guy, we were getting knock counts at 18 with same amount of fuel adjustment, so I added some more and it went away, all cars are different and depending here you live you might only have 91 octane.

boost control such as rjc unit, set initial rod then go from there with adjustments to the bc back to rod untill your happy, just dont crank the bc all the way in cause you'll step on it then all of a sudden you got 17, 18#s and your only doing 25mph

During the winter I did searches on here as wll as other boards, would just pick a topic, sifted through all the gobble, then i cut and pasted all posible troubleshooting ideas then printed and filed so if I have an issue I can just find the folder and read a hard copy, it helped out big time, takes a little prep work but works better in the end.

Mike

 

[upslp]

found the problem!!!

I found out that the Y could also be put in another position and that cured it. I need to cut a piece of the rod cuz now its to long so I am only getting 14.5-15 lbs and I cant make the rod any shorter!