Body Bushings changeover problems

[HarryK]

OK, after trying to do some preliminary work on changing the bushings (PB Blaster etc..) , I tried loosening bolts #2,3 and 4.

Used a 3/8" ratchet with a 15mm deep socket to minimize excessive torque.

Out came #2 drivers, #3 passenger (shorter 55mm bolt+washer).

Spun #2 passenger
Spun #4 passenger
Broke #3 bolt drivers
Spun # 4 driver

Looking for some techniques to access the nuts and what to do when I do. 1.5" holes right over or what? Any suggesting appreciated while I figure out the other ones.

Thanks

Harry K.

 

[Robert Walton]

Anyone .. Anyone ? This job is in my near future and I can guarantee I'm going to break bolts.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by Robert Walton
Anyone .. Anyone ? This job is in my near future and I can guarantee I'm going to break bolts.

Texas car, you should be fine. Rust belt cars a friggen nightmare. Thank goodness all my cars have been from the south.

 

[QWK GN]

When I did my bushings I had the one in the frount passenger side brake on me.I was doing it at a friends body shop,which was lucky for me.We had to cut into the floor pan to get at the damm thing then weld then flap that was cut into the floor shut.

John O

 

[Robert Walton]

I may live in Texas but I think the car was from a slight snowy area. It's loaded with rust. If I read this correctly, if a bolt braks or the nut spins I'll have to cut up the floor.

 

[QWK GN]

Yes, There is no other way to do it.I know that sucks but there's nothing you can do.You can use a cut off wheel to make a flap that can be welded shut.


John O

 

[TurboGee]

Spray with PB blaster manys times, weeks before you try and remove the bolts.
Use 6 point socket with air impact wrench. Use the proper setting on your impacy wrench.

TurboGee

 

[bbbad6]

Heat Wrench!!

I'm in Northeast Rustville, and my #2 and #6's (all four) crumbled/broke off. I had the frame dropped out, and stuck the torch on the nut-type fitting in the body and grabbed it with vise-grips. Going into the project, I was like ****, this ****s never comin out, but i heated the **** red and it came out with nasty squeaks, I now have Stainless Steel bolts for all of the mounts.

Anyways, you should be able to get in there if you can get the frame down/body up like 3" and just cook the ****.

 

[nonosv6]

anyone now the correct size bolts to use ..i want to replace mine with stainless......thanks,joel

 

[bbbad6]

bolts

I think it was 10 x 1.5.

You need 12 total
10 of them are 80 mm long
and 2 are 60 mm
I also bought a ****load of washers and lock washers

The core support requires nuts on the other end

 

[HarryK]

Back to the Buick

Well, after several weeks and responsibilities, it was time to tackle the remaining bushings in the Buick. Went to the garage over the last two days and got out the hole cutter and drill. Update: #7 - Both came out fine after gentle coaxing.
#6 - Both snapped...marked location in trunk and
removed my 'diamond' nut. Will replace with
the 12mm ones I got from GM
#4 - Took back seat out and drilled the 2" hole..
not too bad...took out the rusted ones after
jamming the spinners with a screwdriver and
removing the bolts..will replace with 12mm
ones..
#2 - Right side spinning and looking for a place to
drill..
#1 - Loosened both fine..(with plenty of PB blaster)
in preperation for the body lift..
Anyway....the cutting and removing wasn't nearly as tough as I thought it would be. The snapped bolts helped because the diamond nuts just lifted off in those positions. All I need now is a location to access the #2 right side mount..Anyone know where? It seems to be over the frame in front of the passenger compartment..and inaccessible...help appreciated..

Harry K.

 

[tom h]

Sorry, can't help with the specific questions, but I wanted to suggest that any new bolts & nuts (ESPECIALLY if stainless) have the threads coated with nickel-based antiseize. That should prevent sticking/freezing in the future.

Stainless bolts, especially, are prone to seizing -- stainless aginst stainless can effectively "micro weld" to itself.

 

[HarryK]

QUickGN or Bad6, was it the #2?

If the #2 is the one you mean then where in the front, did you hole saw the footwell angled part of the passenger compartment or is it further in? Thanks


HK

 

[turbobuickman]

Damn! I live right in the heart of the rust belt! I have been wanting to do my body bushings over for a while now cuz my car feels so very un-solid (maybe its just the ttops) whenever I go over a bump. How much to have a body shop do the whole thing? I have a friend that would probably offer to do it for free but whats a fair price?

 

[3point8]

#2 body mount access

Harry K
It was no fun when I ran into this problem. I removed the fender to get at it. Then the next problem was to get the broken bolt and nut out of the cage. I used a dremel tool, had to jamb the thing into a corner with a screw driver and then cut at the bolt down to the nut then move the nut into position and cut away in several places until I could fish out the pieces with a magnet. What a job, did it in the middle of winter too. Sorry I don't have any easy solution for you
Peter

 

[HarryK]

OK, the #2 is on the angled forward part of the foot well near the right side of the passenger compartment behind the ECM plastic. Cut a nice 2" hole there and there it was! All of them have been inserted and await bolts and tightening. I didn't weld the new ones in, just yet.... I picked up the garage today and the old ones are inside a plastic bag..boy do they look bad. Remember, the #3s are 55mm bolts, all the rest are 80mm. The replacement diamond nuts are 12mm as opposed to 10mm. My new bolts are anodized and the diamond nuts have a plastic coating on the inside of the threads which would lock them in. All in all, only about 4 out of the 12 (including the #1s) stayed in place and I used new 10mm bolts, the rest went to 12mm..(waiting to be threaded..)...I'll post some pics when I get the bolts in and tighten them down. My son (17) got frustrated because of all the rust and problems a few days ago lifting the body...now I need him to give me a couple of more hours to align the mounts..the T-Bar helped a lot....for those who worry about specific number mounts, just use what you think will fit well if it's sturdy...it won't matter....GM had a couple weird ones in the #6 and #1 positions...and of course, none in the #3 and #4..

almost done

HK

 

[HarryK]

Better late than never

Well, several months later, the bolts are in and I've finally posted again..Now looking to weld the cutouts back in place since the exhaust is coming into the passenger compartment.

Hope all is well
Harry K.

Car rides and runs pretty nice for 150K on the clock...(120K from the last female owner for 12 years...)

 

[salvageV6]

Doesn't anyone make a nice plastic snap in 2" cover for those holes?

A little seam sealant or Right stuff on them for sealing and you can go back in there easily in 15 years and do it again.

If I could seal them up decently, I certainly wouldn't weld them.

Maybe a round 3" piece of thin 1/16"-3/32" stainless over them with right stuff to hold it.

I made a square patch for my car that way in the back seat area where water collected over the years, could be removed if needed rather easily yet isn't going anywhere soon that's for sure.

Thinner stainless will seal and be moldable to some degree if the area isn't flat as well.

Still chasing my exhaust smell in the car, only does it with pass. window open any amount.

Sealed it up pretty good too but may be sucking through the door molding/window area since the rocker panel is rotted out.