BLM and INT problems.....

[groumoutis]

All my readings are okay with the exception of the BLM 144 sometimes a little higher and INT 125-131. The car is up to temp at 175 and the IAC and TPS are spot on. The O2 readings jump around at idle and under WOT the O2's are always around 800 sometimes a little higher. I did disconnect the battery to get the BLM and INT to reset to 128 but after running for a short time they went right back up.

Car has factory everything except RJC power plate and 2.5" pypes race pro catback exhaust. The highest retard degrees are 1.5. The car seems to be rich at idle and under normal driving.

I have checked for vacuum leaks and found the boost gauge to have a leak in the bellows and is now disconnected. I have no other ideas I can't see any leak points in the drivers side header or the cross over pipe. Does anyone have and tricks to check for leaks in the header or cross over pipe?

 

[Hacksaw]

What are the O2 cross counts? If they are too low, then the O2 sensor is history. And the O2 readings during normal cruise? At idle, the O2 sensor can cool down enough to make it stop sending signals.

Quick Reference Page For the '86/'87 Turbo Regals and '89 Turbo T/A

Clean all the grounds as well. If they are intermittent (flaky), the O2 readings can confuse the ECM. Rich at idle could be high fuel pressure, or leaks in the vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[groumoutis]

CC go all the way to 250 or whatever the max is and restarts back to 0 and starts over again. The O2 was replaced about this time last year. The O2 is constantly updating.

 

[Razor]

How are the BL numbers while cruising/decel/accel?

 

[robertmee]

How are you checking for Vacuum leaks??....I had the same problem, thought I'd identified all leaks using the carb cleaner method. Broke down and bought a vacuum tester/gauge and found a bunch more. These old cars, they are everywhere.

As a test, disconnect/plug all non-essential vacuum hoses. Remove the one to the cruise control/charcoal filter. Remove the one to the HVAC unit. If you have an aftermarket chip, remove the EGR one. Remove the one to your boost gauge. Then check your BLMs.

 

[groumoutis]

I have a mighty-vac to check the vacuum. The car will have vacuum in the lines a few hours after it has been shut off. Like I said I did find a leak in the boost gauge and I found a small leak in a fitting on the inner right fender MAP sensor?.

As far as the BLM's when the car is cruising it seems to be lower in the 120 range.

 

[Razor]

So if cruising they are lower that is a good indication. See if you had a vacuum leak they would be high.. idle or cruising.

It could be an exhuast leak, bad MAF, bad O2(dont use bosch), and can even be bad injectors. Bad chip can also cuase this.