best way to Lock-up?

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plcguru

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2008
What's the best kit/method to lockup the converter in 4th gear on a 2004r non-computer controlled car.
There seem to be quite a few kits out there from cheap to not-so-cheap... some vacuum some not, etc :confused:
 
I've always done mine with a normally open 4th gear pressure switch. I have had great results and never had any reason to think I needed a vacuum switch or any of the other more elaborate systems. I've done this on my last three 2004R's and it is very simple and works great. Get a normally open switch from a GM dealer. Hopefully somebody will chime in with the part number or I'll get it tomorrow at work. Install it into the VB. Take your TCC solenoid and leave the 12V+ wire as is but cut the ground wire and solder it to the wire with the plug going to the pressure switch. Remove the other unused wires from the case connector plug. At this point you should only have the 12V+ wire at the case plug. Give the wire 12V+ ignition, not constant power but run it through a good quality relay that kills power to the solenoid whenever the brake pedal is pushed. There are plenty of good write ups on this and most will give a wire diagram of what I'm saying. I'll see if I can find the link that I first used for this when I get the switch part number.
 
65skyturbo said:
I've always done mine with a normally open 4th gear pressure switch. I have had great results and never had any reason to think I needed a vacuum switch or any of the other more elaborate systems. I've done this on my last three 2004R's and it is very simple and works great. Get a normally open switch from a GM dealer. Hopefully somebody will chime in with the part number or I'll get it tomorrow at work. Install it into the VB. Take your TCC solenoid and leave the 12V+ wire as is but cut the ground wire and solder it to the wire with the plug going to the pressure switch. Remove the other unused wires from the case connector plug. At this point you should only have the 12V+ wire at the case plug. Give the wire 12V+ ignition, not constant power but run it through a good quality relay that kills power to the solenoid whenever the brake pedal is pushed. There are plenty of good write ups on this and most will give a wire diagram of what I'm saying. I'll see if I can find the link that I first used for this when I get the switch part number.
Click to expand...

+1, Jake set up my TCC like this (it's not in the driving stage yet). You seem to be OK w/o the low vacuum cutout, is that right? I built my wiring harness to include this switch and am curious to see if I really need it. More on this?

Thanks!
 
I prefer to not use the vacuum switch since most people are on and off the throttle a bit and it locks and unlocks the converter. I set mine up with power directly to the solenoid and the ground side directly to a N/O single pole switch that grounds as soon as 4th hits. Unlocks automatically when downshifted out of 4th and no "hunting" when driving around in 2nd or 3rd gears. Never had a problem with this setup in the last 21 years.
 
I have yet to find a need for the vacuum switch. Exactly as GNeric says. Engine vacuum varies too much while driving and the converter would be cycling constantly. I suppose GM did it due to people driving uphills and maybe some light towing. When these trannys first came out the cars had anemic 100hp engines with 2.14 ratio axles. They needed all the help they could get and unlocking the converter made them a little more driveable.
 
ok, no vacuum switch then. Sounds easy enough.

The VB is a CQ from an 86MonteSS. Not sure if the 4th gear switch in it is normally open or closed but I'll check it with a meter.

Thanks
 
ssedan64, that is cheap... I couldn't even find the 4th gear switch itself for under $16. I think I'll get that kit.

Would it be a big deal (ie. unsafe) if I didn't wire it through the brake switch?? Are you guys not doing that?
 
For driveability reasons, I would wire it to the brake switch. The solenoid will stay engaged until the trans downshifts into 3rd and looses the ground. Depending on your valvebody calibration and engine torque, it might feel like it is bogging the engine down if you don't use the brake switch. It is real easy to do and only requires a relay and some misc. connectors.
 
I've already installed a TCI lock-up kit 376600 in my 200-r4 and was reading this thread.
I'm convinced I don't want to hook up the vacuum part of the switch, but can I still use this kit and wire it so it's activated the way you guys are talking?

I haven't got it running yet, still working on other stuff. Would really appreciate any help in easy to follow details and pictures would be great.
I'm also using a Monte SS trans behind a 327/300hp.

Thanks
 
I called TCI today and asked them how to wire in the brake switch so it will dis-engage the overdrive, he basically told me I can't do it.
I need a vac. switch.

Can anyone help? I'm trying to fit it in a non-computer car, got the TCI kit and a brake switch with 5 elec. tabs.
Would like the idea of using an L.E.D. to indicate overdrive.

Anyone??
 
I cut the below out of the TCI instructions for your kit.

Connect your brake light switch N/C terminals in between terminal A and switched 12v. Don't use terminal B. Connect terminal D directly to ground instead of using the vacuum switch. Should work fine...

Connect your lockup light in between the brake switch and +12v if you want to know when the converters in lock up.

tci.jpg
 
So far sooooo great, I understand.

The light, it has two leads, one goes on the side of the brake switch the +12V power is coming in, and the other lead of the light goes.....

So it can be run without the vac. switch right off their own instructions. They said no.
 
Glad I asked what seemed to be a dumb question, I never would have thought I was to connect both leads of the light on the same wire before the switch.

It's this electrical thing that is hard for me to understand.:eek:

In your other thread that shows the Regal brake switch, that is the one I picked up today. The three terminals are the ones I connect for the trans, and the two at the rear are for the regular brake lights?

Really appreciate this help!!:smile:
Thanks.
 
Sorry... but I don't have that switch so I can't even check the terminals for you.

If you need wire you might buy the wire from your local Radio Shack store and bring the switch with you and ask the clerk there to let you know which terminals on the switch are N/O and which are N/C. Most times they're happy to help non-electrical folks with such things... as long as you're buying something.
 
That's what I was thinking! lol

I was planning to go to Radio Shack (The Source, here in Canada), and show them the switch and get an L.E.D. 12vdc.

I think that should cover all my questions, I wish I knew how to post the wiring diagram I just drew for myself. The worst that can happen is blow a fuse right?

Again, thanks for your time and patience.:smile:
 
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