Best Subframe Connectors for TTA
- Thread starter BradWE4
- Start date
T
TTA89
Guest
Weld ins are the only way to go. Get a set of Global West Subframes, They even Clear the THDP.
T
TTA89
Guest
I should take my own advice and get some subframes...
Someone said the car will fall apart if you run under 1.8 60fts.. Hmm I guess thats not true
Someone said the car will fall apart if you run under 1.8 60fts.. Hmm I guess thats not true
TurboTA3.8
You wont keep up the pace
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
kenny brown makes a very nice set ones to the g-load points
george
george
Mike, have you noticed any cracks in the quarter/roof seam? I starting getting paint cracks in mine. This was after a summer of 1.6/1.7 launches. Just curious if you saw anything.Originally posted by TTA89
I should take my own advice and get some subframes...
Someone said the car will fall apart if you run under 1.8 60fts.. Hmm I guess thats not true
I bought mine from Thunder Racing http://www.thunderracing.com
T
TTA89
Guest
I havent really looked to close, nothing that I remember. Ill take a look in the next couple of days.
http://www.globalwest.net/
http://www.globalwest.net/
TurboTA3.8
You wont keep up the pace
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
i just looked at those global west subframes they looked not as sturdy as the kenny brown subframes
george
george
Mr. UPS just dropped off my set of Global West subframe connectors. They're made from ~1.25" diameter chromoly tubing, .125" thick. Solid pieces even if they look wimpy in pictures. They're rather beefy, especially considering the method you install them-- You weld them to the front pad near where the front fender bolts to the body, then the rear of the body by the trailing arm, then the key to their strength-- you stitch weld them to the rocker panel lips the entire length of the car. They tuck up and out of sight-- I held one up under the car and you'd never notice them unless you were on the ground looking up at them.
I'll probably install them next weekend, I won't have the time this weekend. There's a fair amount of welding involved, but it'll definately be worth it. They clear a THDP too
I got them from John's Performance BTW.
I'll probably install them next weekend, I won't have the time this weekend. There's a fair amount of welding involved, but it'll definately be worth it. They clear a THDP too
I got them from John's Performance BTW.
UR50SLO
The Reaper
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2001
SSMS
We've been using the SSM connectors/lift bars for a long time.
Over the years of using them we've found what works and what does not. The connectors work excellent. They fit tight and are not very noticeable.
The complete system works but you have to take the "stock" lower controll arms out. The stock lower controll arms are much shorter than the ssm bars. When both are hooked up they are in a bind causing the system to hold it's self up.
When we eliminated the lower controll arms it started working correctly. Then we moved the shocks from the front of the axel to the back, then we removed the stock springs and installed coil overs(QA1) that seems to be the final and best setup we've done. Very tunable with damping and ride hight and spring tension.
With a cold day at Stanton we launched with 3lbs of boost went 1.51 60' with out breaking a sweat. We have not even played with the settings yet! We did install a 10pt cage which made the car just that more ridged.
Pic's avlb to any one interested in duplicating this setup.
Stock gas tank will need to be removed!
Power Concepts, Inc.
~Scott
We've been using the SSM connectors/lift bars for a long time.
Over the years of using them we've found what works and what does not. The connectors work excellent. They fit tight and are not very noticeable.
The complete system works but you have to take the "stock" lower controll arms out. The stock lower controll arms are much shorter than the ssm bars. When both are hooked up they are in a bind causing the system to hold it's self up.
When we eliminated the lower controll arms it started working correctly. Then we moved the shocks from the front of the axel to the back, then we removed the stock springs and installed coil overs(QA1) that seems to be the final and best setup we've done. Very tunable with damping and ride hight and spring tension.
With a cold day at Stanton we launched with 3lbs of boost went 1.51 60' with out breaking a sweat. We have not even played with the settings yet! We did install a 10pt cage which made the car just that more ridged.
Pic's avlb to any one interested in duplicating this setup.
Stock gas tank will need to be removed!
Power Concepts, Inc.
~Scott
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
I just got my global west subframes and it doesnt seem to clear my cat. I think i might have to hack it out. anybody else have this same problem with the cat?
TIA
Bo
I think i might have to hack it out. anybody else have this same problem with the cat?TIA
Bo
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Heck, I thought cats have come a long way since the early 80's (my bad)Wtf does this thing do? It is certianly in my way!
The cat is WAY out of the way of the subframe connectors... I think Razor is right. I haven't welded my GW subframes up yet but the passenger side does get REALLY close to the braided flex coupling in the downpipe. Heck, I'll have to remove the lower portion of the factory downpipe to get the welding torch in there. You can always section the downpipe in the straight section before it bends to the flex coupling and remove about an inch then weld it back together... that'll give you plenty of room.
