Best headliner adhesive

[PhilM]

I am getting pissed here... I've done this 3 times over the past 3 years now, and the liner has fallen again, yesterday in the heat. I have used new material, a perfectly cleaned foam backing, 3 different 3M adhesives: super 77, 76, and high strength (90 i thinK?). All of them have failed when it gets hot outside.

So... What do the pro-upholstery shops use... the stuff they spray with the guns? I have also looked at this locktite high temp headliner adhesive but idk if it is going to be any different than the 3M stuff.

Input/sources/results appreciated

Thanks,
Phil

 

[salvageV6]

I was told to get 3M 08088 so I did, it's supposed to work.

Haven't used it just yet however.

I know the 76 and 77 types won't work as you do. :frown:

 

[PhilM]

I am going to be purchasing this DAP landau top & trim adhesive to try... Seems like this is the "pro" stuff. They say, unthinned, you can spray it right outta my std. gun. I may do some raised graphics on the headliner so I need something that can be traced and still hold the line.

Has anyone tried this stuff?

Salvage: idk if many of the low solids sprays work well as I have found out firsthand. If you do try, the unfortunate part is it takes some good time in the heat to find out if it worked... Mine lasted less than a year before it fell even though it was fine for some time with no sign of coming off. I will say that the last one I used lasted about twice as long as the other glues so maybe there is hope with a spray can adhesive.

 

[John Larkin]

Weldwood Contact Cement. Comes in a quart can at ACE Hardware, maybe other place. Only apply it to the backing board. It will melt the foam on the back of the headliner material if you apply it directly. Very sticky and major fumes. Do the repair outdoors; you could have an explosion in your garage if the fumes find a pilot light.

 

[MSUGTP]

I work at an auto upholstery shop and when we do headliners, we use contact cement. The way we do headliners is that we double check that the material we cut is big enough for the headliner core, then fold the headliner back about half way and spray glue on BOTH the material and the headliner core. When you have the glue sprayed on, unfold the headliner so that it covers the headliner core, DON'T START STICKING IT DOWN YET! Next we hold the end of the headliner (the end we sprayed glue on) and push the material down in the center to where it sticks to the headliner core and run your hand all the way to the end of the headliner core. From there, you hold a corner of the material and work your way from the center to the outside (widthwise), starting from the middle of the headliner (length wise). headliners are do-able by yourself but having an extra person makes it alot easier. If you need me to clarify the instructions, just let me know!

 

[PhilM]

I am good at the actual application of the material part but thanx!

I have a quart or so of the DAP weldwood contact cement at my home... so you're saying this is good for this? What about the heat? I was told that DAP top and trim adhesive is mainly used for that but I haven't tried either nor is it commonly available.

Do you guys apply it with a standard "paint" spray gun? I have a few of those but idk if the nozzle will accomodate unthinned contact cement.

Phil

 

[MSUGTP]

I'm not sure of the actual brand of contact cement that we use at out shop but yes, we do spray it out of a "paint gun" type of nozzle. We don't try to thin it out either. Hope that helps!

 

[John Larkin]

I used a brush. No foam brushes, they will melt. Maybe the spray method atomizes it better for applying to the headliner foam. When I used the brush it made some hard spots on the headliner foam where it soaked into it. That's why I said not to apply to headliner itself. A 2-liter coke makes a good rolling pin to press the fabric with. I started on one side with the fabric draped back over my hands and rolled it longways working my way to the other side. The backer board must be wirebrushed virtually perfect for good adhesion.