Bead blasting stock T wheels

[TR6]

Hello:

I am thinking about polishing my stock T wheels. I have access to a glass bead blaster and was wondering if this is the preferred method of cleaning them, and what is involved after blasting them.

I am not sure if it is OK to post in this forum for this, but I am looking for the all info I can get. I have posted in the tire/wheel area here: http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/br...eels/267425-bead-blasting-stock-t-wheels.html

Would appreciate any insight on the subject.

Thanks!

 

[blown okie]

did it to the set i bought for the GN, i just turned the pressure down to around 50 psi on mine & then lightly polished only the spokes.. worked out good for me.. i gave it full pressure on the back(120 psi) to get the filth & road gunk off of them.. others may give u better advice thats just my 2 cents

 

[TR6]

Is the blasting all that is required, or do you need to do any finishing or polish work after blasting? Just curious, why only the spokes? Is this not a good idea to do between the spokes?

Thanks.

 

[salvageV6]

Mine were so bad I had to use Muriatic acid on them first to get the heavy stuff off, then the bead blaster for the stains.

Obviously there was no factory clear coating left on mine.

Once done I painted mine with VHT wheel paint, silver, then VHT clear over that.

Works out fine for me and they've lasted 2 winters so far with the snow tires on them.

Make sure you get the backs and back edges as previously mentioned, so the bead seals, my 20 year old stockers had rubber/gunk buildup on them and caused a slow leak one winter that was a pain to keep filling.

If you do the whole wheel you at least need to clear coat them, or powder coat them for a longer lasting finish.

VHT stuff worked okay for me, urethane based paints.

 

[salvageV6]

Here's one.

 

[scojack_2001]

Here's one.

That looks great!

 

[WSLN 6]

Email sent to ya with pic....

 

[Smokin-6]

I,m having that same problem, my T wheels are dirty as hell and I need to refinish them. SalvageV6 your wheel looks pretty good!

 

[TR87386]

I am sure you guys know this already but the Eagle One cast aluminum wheel cleaner is some strong stuff. Works good on any wheel that has a rough texture that likes to hold the brake dust etc. Try a test spot first as it is strong. I use this with a green scotch bright to clean the inside portion of any aluminum wheel that is covered with road grim. It even works good on unfinished aluminum intakes. Do not get it on anything polished as it will etch into the finish.

 

[salvageV6]

Obviously they look good painted especially before you put them on the car. :biggrin:

They scratch a bit easier than the stockers that have thicker clearcoat, and probably will need cleaning/stripping/repainting for each set of tires put on them.

Red Regal T used to paint up wheels all the time and his car always looked good, so I tried it.

Obviously if you have original finish that can be saved, use some of the products on them as mentioned in the post above.

Mine were so far gone they wouldn't let them in the bead blaster at work without being acid cleaned first.

Bead blasting got out the deep stains and dirt, but they still needed to be covered with something or they would pick up brake dust worse than a clear coated stocker that's for sure.

Tape off the valve stem too for painting.

I put about 4 THIN coats on each wheel from each spray can, follow the directions on it for best results, spray on a non-windy 70-80 degree day outside.

Probably used 2 cans of paint and 2 of clear for the 4 wheels, at least I had to buy that amount probably had a bit left over.

One of the very few appearance items I've tried, and luckily it worked out.

 

[turbo nasty]

Im sure you guys have tried this but it works well with a piece of scotchbrite.

Mag Cleaner


Spray it on cool wheels kinda heavy, let it set for a minute then start srubbing it with the scotch brite.
Spray the wheel down again and let it sit for another minutish.
Spray/rinse with strong heavy stream jet or psi washer.
Wear some gloves as the acid is a bit strong.

 

[blown okie]

i only polished the spokes just to set them off from the rest of the wheel as opposed to polishing the whole wheel... just the look i was going for... i was too lazy to paint or clear mine, which is a good idea.. i might get around to it though.

 

[scottyb]

I am sure you guys know this already but the Eagle One cast aluminum wheel cleaner is some strong stuff. Works good on any wheel that has a rough texture that likes to hold the brake dust etc. Try a test spot first as it is strong. I use this with a green scotch bright to clean the inside portion of any aluminum wheel that is covered with road grim. It even works good on unfinished aluminum intakes. Do not get it on anything polished as it will etch into the finish.

I couldn't get mine clean when I got it, and almost thought it was a lost cause. I'm anal about putting on chemicals, but Eagle One Etching cleaner worked a MIRACLE. It cleaned and made them bright again. Sure they don't look quite like Salvage's blasted wheel, but they are definately the best looking part of the car.

 

[vdimenna]

I had mine blasted, polished the fins and the outer lip and then had them powder coated clear. They're not dead on to factory (a lot shinier). Cleanup is a breeze though.

 

[salvageV6]

I bought a set of powdercoated ones from Brian W. at G body, they are real easy to clean up after the winter compared to even the newly painted ones.

Muriatic acid is probably what is in the Eagle stuff but you can buy a gallon at the Home Depot in MUCH stronger strength and it's used for cleaning masonry/brickwork.

You HAVE to use rubber gloves, old clothes and shoes, eye protection AND a gas mask (I have one for particulates and gas fumes), along with a small nylon brush on a 3-4 foot stick they also sell at Home Depot for cleaning stuff.

Keep the hose running too.

You can't inhale the fumes or it will burn/scar the lungs permanently.

If the wheels aren't that bad go with the Eagle stuff and take the proper precautions as well.

Anyway mine were so bad even full strength didn't fully clean them but after bead blasting them I probably could have just clear painted them, but opted for the silver VHT first anyways, more layers for the brake dust to get through. :biggrin:

I do put the powdercoated ones on the front in the winter with the snow tires. Painted go on the back since there's less brake dust.

 

[UNDER-PRESSURE]

Beadblasted, polished & cleared. :biggrin:

 

[TR6]

Under-pressure:

That is what I am looking for. What did it take to polish them--what is the process, etc.? What did you use to clear them? Can I find this in do it yourself aerosols that work well, or does this need to be done somewhere?

Any more info would be great on how you did your and what I should expect in doing the same. Those look great. Also curious, can you polisht the entire wheel (not just the 'fins')? What would be involved in doing so? If I go the route you did, do you blast the entire wheel, then just polish the 'fins', and if so, do you need to do anything to the other part to protect it during the process (so as not to accidentally polish between the 'fins')?

Thanks everyone else as well. Lots of input to help me figure out what to do. Another question for everyone--I know it would make things easier, but do the tires need to come off to do this, or does it just make it easier to work with?

 

[rmar]

I had mine blasted, polished the fins and the outer lip and then had them powder coated clear. They're not dead on to factory (a lot shinier). Cleanup is a breeze though.

I've done quite a few this way. Seems to work well and makes clean-up real easy.......

 

[aminga]

I bought a set of powdercoated ones from Brian W. at G body, they are real easy to clean up after the winter compared to even the newly painted ones.

Muriatic acid is probably what is in the Eagle stuff but you can buy a gallon at the Home Depot in MUCH stronger strength and it's used for cleaning masonry/brickwork.

You HAVE to use rubber gloves, old clothes and shoes, eye protection AND a gas mask (I have one for particulates and gas fumes), along with a small nylon brush on a 3-4 foot stick they also sell at Home Depot for cleaning stuff.

Keep the hose running too.

You can't inhale the fumes or it will burn/scar the lungs permanently.

If the wheels aren't that bad go with the Eagle stuff and take the proper precautions as well.

Anyway mine were so bad even full strength didn't fully clean them but after bead blasting them I probably could have just clear painted them, but opted for the silver VHT first anyways, more layers for the brake dust to get through. :biggrin:

I do put the powdercoated ones on the front in the winter with the snow tires. Painted go on the back since there's less brake dust.

Muratic acid is a good way to yellow them badly.

 

[salvageV6]

Actually it leaves them a darker shade of gray.

That all comes back to silver/gray when you bead blast them, a bit dull as well due to the bead blasting.

Both are highly invasive procedures that don't restore the wheels to stock in any way, but get rid of stuff you can't get off them any other way.

Bead blasting will leave a different finish on the wheels as well and change the color slightly.

That's why I opted to paint mine silver VHT then clear them.

Powdercoating should last the longest and be the most impervious to dirt.

None of them will ever look close to a stock wheel, but there's probably not that many good original ones left, other than on the show cars.