My 1986 Non turbo regal wont take a charge. I have replaced the altenator do to a bad voltage regulator, then took the car for a ride later that night. the battery died again, so went back to autozone to check out the altenator thinking it was a bad remanufactured part. but it was the same thing, bad regulator. i put in another new altenator and same deal. Once I begin to load the curcuit ie. lights, radio, etc., lights go dim, radio makes one hell of a noise through the speakers and when I hit the brakes, eventually car dies do to no charge... any ideas?
Battery won't charge!!
- Thread starter Buick8688
- Start date
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
As long as it lights up your good.check the battery cables. The reason i asked is the battery light completes the circuit for the charging system.
My lack of eletrical knowledge I'm not to sure what ohm is, I'll replace the ground and positive cables to try to rule out the problem. I have a parts car regal which has a V6 could I swap those cables to my V8 would they be compatible? Thanks for the help everyone.
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
I did not pay attention that was a na v6. Check fusable link at starter .Did you check wire from alt to battery?
Before you start pulling your hair out.
As stated before, make sure the "VOLTS" idiot light works. If it does, turn the key to the "Run" position, pull the plug off the alternator and see if you have 12v. Then post your results, so we can lead in the right direction.
The above steps should take you 2 minutes to diagnosis.
In order for the alternator to charge/work, it needs to have a 12v input.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
As stated before, make sure the "VOLTS" idiot light works. If it does, turn the key to the "Run" position, pull the plug off the alternator and see if you have 12v. Then post your results, so we can lead in the right direction.
The above steps should take you 2 minutes to diagnosis.
In order for the alternator to charge/work, it needs to have a 12v input.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
Sounds to me like the battery is junk... KISS principle.... keep it simple, stupid.... 
If the batt is ok, like mentioned before, probably don't have 12v thru the exciter circuit (volt lite)....
If the batt is ok, like mentioned before, probably don't have 12v thru the exciter circuit (volt lite)....If it starts and runs its not the battery. The battery has nothing to do with the charging circuit. Its only there to supply power when the alt is not supplying power. Id verify the alt is charging at 14v and verify all connections are gtg first. He could have an intermittent open circuit on the alt charging circuit that will be a bitch to diagnose.Sounds to me like the battery is junk... KISS principle.... keep it simple, stupid....
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
Did you check for link at starter? Take jumper cables and hook ground from battery to any metal part of engine and see what volts at battery are with car running.If its charging check ground to engine.If it is not charging take red cable and hook very carefully to big wire on back of alternator and then hook the other end to positive side of battery and have someone start the car while you hold cable at back of alternator. See if system is charging.If it is you have a bad wire from starter to alternator or from battery to alternator.You stated the battery light comes on so there is only two other wires it can be.
No I have not checked the fuseable link at starter yet. So You want me to take the jumper cables hook positive to the battery and negative to any metal part on the motor I feel some what dumb for asking but I'm assuming I'll be theoretically jumping the car or could I use a battery charger and then check the volts correct? (If it is not charging take red cable and hook very carefully to big wire on back of alternator and then hook the other end to positive side of battery) I'm not to sure what you mean. would I be puting the negative to the positive termainal? I really apperiate the help thanks
chopped39
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2004
Hook the positive jumper cable from positive side of battery to positive wire on rear of alternator.Never hook positive wire to any other part of engine. Then take black cable and hook it to negitive side of battery and other end to any metal part of engine.Most likely when you hook up positive wire the system is going to start charging.If the car starts the ground side of system is good so my guess is the wire from battery to alternator or the wire from the fuseable to the alternator is open which means its broken somewhere.If you install a battery charger you are defeting the purpose of checking the system.When you hook the jumper cables like stated above its like you just installed new positive wire from alternator to battery.If your not confident take the car in to a shop.This is a very easy system to diagnos if you have the right equipment.
OK just tested the car put positive to battery and other positive to the alt and so on started the car and checked the volts I was charging at 13.00 volts. I also loaded the circut by putting on lights, radio, etc. and was putting out 11.65 volts does that seem reasonable? Thank you for reposting the instructions it helped out greatly thanks for the help again.
How do I remove the positive cable that runs to the starter so I can replace it?
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Battery problem
OK, when all else fails, try this: First, get yourself a trusty, lusty, dusty, busty voltmeter then proceed as follows:
1) Begin with a charged battery and ignition OFF. Clip plus meter probe to the positive terminal of the car's battery, the negative probe to the negative terminal. Read the voltage, which will be about 12 volts. This is the battery reference voltage, which you must use later.
2) Turn ON the engine. With the lights and all accessories OFF, run the engine at fairly high speed. Read the voltage on the meter again and compare it to the reference voltage. If voltage has NOT changed, the alternator is probably defective. If voltage is 2 OR MORE VOLTS HIGHER than battery reference voltage,regulator is defective and should be adjusted or replaced. If voltage increase falls between 0 AND 2 VOLTS, make the next test.
3) Turn ON all lights and accessories, and run the engine at high speed. If voltage increases by 1/2 VOLT OR MORE above reference voltage, alternator and voltage regualtor are OK. If voltage increases by LESS THAN 1/2 VOLT, proceed with the final test.
4) Turn engine OFF, then disconnect probes of the voltmeter. Reclip plus probe to the terminal on the alternator marked BAT, and the other probe to a good ground. Restart engine. With lights and accessories ON, run engine at high speed again. If voltage DOES NOT INCREASE TO MORE THAN 1/2 VOLT above reference voltage, turn OFF engine and check alternator for defects. If voltage increases by MORE THAN 1/2 VOLT, the regualtor is probably defective.
Try this and see what happens. Let me know. This method has worked for me for years and years.:smile:
If this solves your problem, I'll send you my billing address.
Bruce '87 Grand National
OK, when all else fails, try this: First, get yourself a trusty, lusty, dusty, busty voltmeter then proceed as follows:
1) Begin with a charged battery and ignition OFF. Clip plus meter probe to the positive terminal of the car's battery, the negative probe to the negative terminal. Read the voltage, which will be about 12 volts. This is the battery reference voltage, which you must use later.
2) Turn ON the engine. With the lights and all accessories OFF, run the engine at fairly high speed. Read the voltage on the meter again and compare it to the reference voltage. If voltage has NOT changed, the alternator is probably defective. If voltage is 2 OR MORE VOLTS HIGHER than battery reference voltage,regulator is defective and should be adjusted or replaced. If voltage increase falls between 0 AND 2 VOLTS, make the next test.
3) Turn ON all lights and accessories, and run the engine at high speed. If voltage increases by 1/2 VOLT OR MORE above reference voltage, alternator and voltage regualtor are OK. If voltage increases by LESS THAN 1/2 VOLT, proceed with the final test.
4) Turn engine OFF, then disconnect probes of the voltmeter. Reclip plus probe to the terminal on the alternator marked BAT, and the other probe to a good ground. Restart engine. With lights and accessories ON, run engine at high speed again. If voltage DOES NOT INCREASE TO MORE THAN 1/2 VOLT above reference voltage, turn OFF engine and check alternator for defects. If voltage increases by MORE THAN 1/2 VOLT, the regualtor is probably defective.
Try this and see what happens. Let me know. This method has worked for me for years and years.:smile:
If this solves your problem, I'll send you my billing address.
Bruce '87 Grand National
