Battery won't charge!!
- Thread starter Buick8688
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
1)set a volt/ohm meter to ohms.
2)touch one probe to the alt chassis.the other to the battery ground terminal.should be close to 0....post up the number...
3)new test; put one probe on the main output post on alt.other probe on the positive battery.....should be close to 0 also.....post up the number....the cable thats the furthest away from 0 is your winner/loser....
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Do GaryK's test. After checking with that, you can go through the 3rd and 4th test of the one I showed you. Will do no harm. You didn't have to stop at test 2. It does look like it's your internal voltage regulator in the alternator. Test 3 and 4 should show you it's the voltage regulator's bad also. Can't you take the alternator back and exchange it? I know it's charging but it could be charging too little. Just go do test 3 and 4 after Gary's test. His makes sense also. I've been through four alternators myself until I finally got one that worked properly. I was told by the counterman, who used to work for GM, that the internal components are made in China, and are cheap, and break down more often. He told me the only way to solve this problem was go buy an original GM alternator at the dealers for over $300 at the time. I just went to a shop that specialized in alternator rebuilds, bought the voltage regulator, brushes, bridge rectifier, etc., and rebuilt it myself. Now you can't buy rebuild kits at the parts store around here, you're held under the gun to buy the complete assembly. Which is a crock of crap. I do go to junk yards and get old alternators cheap, take them apart for parts and check them, save them for future use. I'm getting a little long winded, aren't I? Hmmm. Late here, snowing like a bitch outside. 6 inches so far. Let us know how it goes, hey, I'm trying my best to offer suggestions, I can only hope this helps you. Don't want to see you with this nagging problem forever.
Bruce '87 Grand National
Bruce '87 Grand National
I did the test you told me, it did charge the first time I tried it so I thought for sure I found the problem. I tested it again just to make sure I was headed in the right direction and result was no charge.
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
OK, I need the result from test no. 1...the battery reference voltage. What was this voltage as the battery just sat with no load, no nothing? I need this number to give you your answer. Let me know.
Bruce '87 Grand National
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Alright, I went back and read your first post on the test...you said on test 2, the voltage jumped from 12.07 (which I assume is your reference voltage) to 14.37 volts. This shows the voltage changed by more than two volts (14.37 minus 12.07 ref volts equals 2.3 volts.) This tells me that the voltage regulator is defective.
Test 3 shows the voltage did not increase by 1/2 volt or more, it only did .36 volts (12.07 ref volts minus 11.71 volts equals .36 volts) That means less than 1/2 volts and means go to test 4.
Test 4 shows me that your voltage increased by 1.03 volts (12.07 ref volts minus 11.04 volts equals 1.03 volts) This tells me (and you) that your voltage regualtor is defective. Clear as day.
The result of two tests point to your voltage regulator as being defective.
So, best thing to do if you don't know how to change voltage regualtors, is just take the thing back from where you bought it and exchange it for another one. Or buy an LT1 alternator from a '96 Caprice (140 amps) That's what I did. Or listen to the other guys opinions here on where to get a new alternator. The suggestions here for a new alternator are just my opinions.
Hope this solves your problem...just let me know if I can be of further help and if you don't understand the above, please ask. So, the tests all point to a defective voltage regulator.
This test was given to me years, and years, and years ago by my first cousin, a famous race car driver, who did quite well in racing and had a great nack with engines, almost very uncanny if you will...he showed me this when I was having problems with the alternator on my '68 Ram Air Firebird 400. This test has never failed me, I've used it for a long time on countless cars, but....you MUST check all your wiring/connections first to make sure they are tight, not corroded, cracked, shorted out...at the battery to the alternator, all wires must conduct electricity...no broken wires anywhere. Tight and right.:tongue: This includes all ground wires.
Let us know how you made out, my friend. If ol' Brucie can't take care of you, the rest of the brilliant guys here on the board will.:redface:
Bruce '87 Grand National
Test 3 shows the voltage did not increase by 1/2 volt or more, it only did .36 volts (12.07 ref volts minus 11.71 volts equals .36 volts) That means less than 1/2 volts and means go to test 4.
Test 4 shows me that your voltage increased by 1.03 volts (12.07 ref volts minus 11.04 volts equals 1.03 volts) This tells me (and you) that your voltage regualtor is defective. Clear as day.
The result of two tests point to your voltage regulator as being defective.
So, best thing to do if you don't know how to change voltage regualtors, is just take the thing back from where you bought it and exchange it for another one. Or buy an LT1 alternator from a '96 Caprice (140 amps) That's what I did. Or listen to the other guys opinions here on where to get a new alternator. The suggestions here for a new alternator are just my opinions.
Hope this solves your problem...just let me know if I can be of further help and if you don't understand the above, please ask. So, the tests all point to a defective voltage regulator.
This test was given to me years, and years, and years ago by my first cousin, a famous race car driver, who did quite well in racing and had a great nack with engines, almost very uncanny if you will...he showed me this when I was having problems with the alternator on my '68 Ram Air Firebird 400. This test has never failed me, I've used it for a long time on countless cars, but....you MUST check all your wiring/connections first to make sure they are tight, not corroded, cracked, shorted out...at the battery to the alternator, all wires must conduct electricity...no broken wires anywhere. Tight and right.:tongue: This includes all ground wires.
Let us know how you made out, my friend. If ol' Brucie can't take care of you, the rest of the brilliant guys here on the board will.:redface:
Bruce '87 Grand National
It's Done!
Well I found out the root of this whole electrical problem, turns out the water pump pulley was shot, after replacing the pulley and putting on new belts she ran like a top. The lack of performance with just one belt turning the water pump pulley which was the power steering belt was not giving enough power and having the belt as chewed up as it was there was pretty much nothing there. The electrical problem was a cause of lack of power and no charge.
Thank you everyone for your help.
I'm not a mechanic: just someone who loves this car!
Well I found out the root of this whole electrical problem, turns out the water pump pulley was shot, after replacing the pulley and putting on new belts she ran like a top. The lack of performance with just one belt turning the water pump pulley which was the power steering belt was not giving enough power and having the belt as chewed up as it was there was pretty much nothing there. The electrical problem was a cause of lack of power and no charge.
Thank you everyone for your help.
I'm not a mechanic: just someone who loves this car!
