If its the gold dust you're talking about, switch to the new Federal Mogul. The end play will be a little tighter, i.e., you'll probably have closer to .005 or .006, but they'll flow more oil to the crank thrust surface and actually polish it. They have silicon-injected aluminum thrust surfaces, with full exit grooves, that are ramped to force more oil (increase lubrication) between the two surfaces. I fought the same problem before wising up. Check the crank thrust surface before installing. If it looks/feels smooth it probably has not gone south. I.e., I believe its a bearing problem rather than a crankshaft problem. E.g., Clevites have the worst thrust surfaces on the market. However, if the crank shaft wore through the soft bearing layer, you'll have to sand it smooth. This will require a shoe made from your old FRONT BOTTOM thrust bearing. RTV some 400-1000 grit to it (this requires cutting it to shape first and letting set for a few hours) and JB Weld a rod to it at an angle to hold it without getting hit by revolving counterbalances. Then just coat the bottom of it and the crank journal with some prelube, remove the plugs, put oil on the sand paper surface, and have someone crank the engine. Minimize the cranking because the lifters will be losing prime. Remember, it only takes a few seconds for micro-oxidation to form so keep oil on everything. Leave the old top thrust bearing in place until you're done then clean/oil before installing/seating the new bearing shells. Make sure the end play is even, top to bottom, on the rear surface. Its really not as much trouble as it sounds and I think you'll be amazed at what a simple fix it was after you're done. Whatever you do, analyze the oil by removing the filter and pouring out every few miles. It will contain residual for awhile but should clear on out.
