Any downsides to 200 amp alternator upgrade?

[tom h]

I was eyeing the 200A upgrade kit at http://www.turbobuicks.com/store/proddetail.asp?prod=TBS400 , as I might be disassembling the alternator anyway to get it powder coated.

Are there any known disadvantages to this 200A kit (including but not limited to reliability)?

I suspect (given the price), but don't know for sure, that the kit components may not be comparable to "genuine GM" quality.

 

[TurboDave]

No downsides, other than having to upgrade the charge wire running from the alternator over to the battery. Wouldn't do much good to have a 200 amp alternator, and trying to charge the battery with the flimsy little wire that is original.
I put a huge demand on my system, and the 200 amp alternator didn't do didly for me, but I didn't realize it just couldn't put the required current through the charge wire and the battery was still being drawn down. When I upgraded the charge wire to a 4ga, all's well!!

 

[Jerryl]

Only downside is "power robber" IF you do not need the higher amperage. Otherwise, well, it is a necesity if your stock or current "alternator in good condition" can't keep up with the demand.

 

[Grumpy]

I have had awesome luck with the ol stockers since 1986 :biggrin:

 

[bison]

Only downside is "power robber" IF you do not need the higher amperage. Otherwise, well, it is a necesity if your stock or current "alternator in good condition" can't keep up with the demand.

If there is more draw than the alternator can put out then there will be a drop in voltage and WOT driveability problems. There has to be more draw to actually use extra power. It doesnt run at 200A all the time. I think its a smart idea. The multiple fuel pumps and volt boosters that are in a lot of cars these days are taxing the 120A without a doubt. Driving down the highway at night with the high beams on and 3 fuel pumps running at 16 volts puts a lot of strain on the alternator.

 

[tom h]

I've read the ramchargers/chrysler/valeo dual fans will draw about 30-35 amps when running. This is what first got me thinking about the stock 120A vs upgraded 200A alternators.

 

[bison]

I've read the ramchargers/chrysler/valeo dual fans will draw about 30-35 amps when running. This is what first got me thinking about the stock 120A vs upgraded 200A alternators.

This is true, but normally the fans would shut off at a certain throttle setting (TPS) thats burned in the chip. Exception would be if you ran it off a manual switch and didnt shut it off before stomping on it.

 

[Andre Ellis]

answer to powder coat ????

We can powder coat objects up to 4FT L x 4FT W x 4FT H in most any basic colors and crinkle finish. Remember to remove any thing that can't handle 400 degree temps.

 

[TurboDave]

If there is more draw than the alternator can put out then there will be a drop in voltage and WOT driveability problems. There has to be more draw to actually use extra power. It doesnt run at 200A all the time. I think its a smart idea. The multiple fuel pumps and volt boosters that are in a lot of cars these days are taxing the 120A without a doubt. Driving down the highway at night with the high beams on and 3 fuel pumps running at 16 volts puts a lot of strain on the alternator.

So very true. After I got mine, driving at night with all the lights, two rad. fans a tranny fan, etc. etc. even the 200A alternator didn't help my problem. I was to say the least, dismayed until I started doing the math and decided the stock charge wire was being horribly overloaded and couldn't provide the current required.

Excelent point BTW on the draw only being there when required.

 

[mikestertwo]

If you don't need it, then it's a waste of money, but if you have a lot of added electrical accessories, by all means, go for it.

 

[JeffG]

So very true. After I got mine, driving at night with all the lights, two rad. fans a tranny fan, etc. etc. even the 200A alternator didn't help my problem. I was to say the least, dismayed until I started doing the math and decided the stock charge wire was being horribly overloaded and couldn't provide the current required.

Dave, don't the high output alternators tend to actually put out less current then the stockers at low RPM's. I had thought about picking one up too, but with the AC on, dual fans blowing, and other accys, I just can't see going to anything that would lose low RPM charging ability

 

[bison]

So very true. After I got mine, driving at night with all the lights, two rad. fans a tranny fan, etc. etc. even the 200A alternator didn't help my problem. I was to say the least, dismayed until I started doing the math and decided the stock charge wire was being horribly overloaded and couldn't provide the current required.

Dave, don't the high output alternators tend to actually put out less current then the stockers at low RPM's. I had thought about picking one up too, but with the AC on, dual fans blowing, and other accys, I just can't see going to anything that would lose low RPM charging ability

This has been reported when converting a lower amperage out alternator to a higher output. There surely must be a way around this though. A lot of newer cars have higher amperage output than 120A. The LT1 found in the old B-bodies is rated up to 160A. They dont have low rpm issues. I think they even idle at 600 rpm or something. This could be a concern at low rpm, but the opposite would be true at higher rpm. Anyone have any real life numbers to back up the low rpm charging problems reported?

 

[TurboDave]

I don't have any low rpm issues (charging wise that is). Maybe those reporting lower output, had too small a pully?
Current output is going to be directly proportional to the demand (assuming the alternator is working correctly) and assuming the charge wire can handle the load. I also got my 200A alternator from and alternate source, not tbs.com. Some outfit in FL.

 

[SloGN]

if your having problem with your curent alt check the voltage drop between the battery and the alt. like someone stated above the wiring could be the culprit.


I had a similair (sp?) issue with my car the voltage just keep getting lower and lower this it would bottom out @ 12.8-12.9 with no load on it.

The problem was as it builds up heat it would charge less and less. I took the Alternator apart and found corrsion on all the connections so i cleaned all of them up and put the alternator back together and it charges 14.1-14.3 @ night with the headlights on bright and the heater running @ a lite throttle cruise.

@ idle with everything you can imagine on and including my stereo with a 1000 watt explode series amp ( lights with high beams on, Rear window defog, blower motor on high, dual rad fans running) my voltage only dropped to 13.3-13.4. so unless you are really running some serious electronics i think a good stock 120 amp alt will be just fine.

think about it it takes alot to draw 120 amp continuos.

thats my 2 cents.

 

[bison]

think about it it takes alot to draw 120 amp continuos.

thats my 2 cents.

It does take a lot to draw the 120A, but people are doing it regulary now for the reasons we stated. Id rather not have a problem at WOT and 28-30psi. Dont need lazy injectors or ignition problems. A msifire with the wasted sprark is really bad at those pressures.