another lockup question

[ct67_72]

I hve been reading countless threads on this one and have a couple questions specific to my problem.
I dont get lockup at all in my car. so I put in a switch, I put it in temporarily with a t-tap and it still does not work, I however have not checked the t-tap and will do it correctly when I get home. I also have a 145 mph speedo and read today that someone else had the same issue because of the difference in speed the ecm sees. so now Im worried that this is my problem.
Im not sure what else to check, my trans is pretty new and I dont beleive it to be a solenoid.
could it still be a brake switch?
TIA

 

[mikestertwo]

Where did you tap the switch into? Check to see if you have 12V on pin "F" of your ALDL connector. If not check your brake switch and fuses. The speedometer calibration may be another issue but you have to make sure your lockup circuit is working first.

 

[ct67_72]

I tapped pin f right on the back of the aldl connector. I wasnt sure what was supposed to be there or how to check it so thats great, so just key on and there should be 12v at pin f?
thanks

 

[mikestertwo]

I tapped pin f right on the back of the aldl connector. I wasnt sure what was supposed to be there or how to check it so thats great, so just key on and there should be 12v at pin f?
thanks

Correct

 

[Syclone0044]

I went through months of diagnosis when my 700R4 did not lockup. (700R4 lockup Solenoids are identical to those from a 200R4 I believe).

If you can get in a very quiet area, you should be able to hear the lockup ball clicking/rattling when you apply 12v power to the circuit. Yes even with the transmission in the car fully installed.

In my case the problem turned out to be a wrong plastic TCC solenoid connector at the trans case, there was a tiny plastic "keyway" different on the plug than the stock receptacle and it kept the plug from fully seating. So you might have to pull the pan and verify the power/signal is making it all the way to the solenoid.

 

[bison]

I went through months of diagnosis when my 700R4 did not lockup. (700R4 lockup Solenoids are identical to those from a 200R4 I believe).

If you can get in a very quiet area, you should be able to hear the lockup ball clicking/rattling when you apply 12v power to the circuit. Yes even with the transmission in the car fully installed.

In my case the problem turned out to be a wrong plastic TCC solenoid connector at the trans case, there was a tiny plastic "keyway" different on the plug than the stock receptacle and it kept the plug from fully seating. So you might have to pull the pan and verify the power/signal is making it all the way to the solenoid.

The circuit is always supposed to have 12v with the key on. Th ecm or the driver grounds the cicuit to cycle the solenoid. No applying 12v.

 

[ct67_72]

well I definitely dont have 12v at pin f on the aldl but Im confused because I thought you were supposed to ground pin f for lockup, how can you ground if it it is a 12v source?
also i redid my wiring temporarily and checked for continuity to make sure I had good connections and still no lockup.
is the brake switch the next item to check? can I bypass is somehow?

 

[mikestertwo]

well I definitely dont have 12v at pin f on the aldl but Im confused because I thought you were supposed to ground pin f for lockup, how can you ground if it it is a 12v source?
also i redid my wiring temporarily and checked for continuity to make sure I had good connections and still no lockup.
is the brake switch the next item to check? can I bypass is somehow?

Pin "F" is not the source of the 12v. The 12v comes through the brake switch from the ECM/SOL fuse to the solenoid then from the solenoid to the computer and pin "F" on the ALDL connector. If you don't have 12v on "F" that means 1) blown ECM/SOL fuse. 2) bad or missadjusted brake switch. 3) open connection between brake switch and ECM. Could be external or internal to the trans. 4) bad lockup solenoid.
I would start with the brake switch.

 

[ct67_72]

great thanks. which actual switch is it? the lower one with the 2 plugs or the upper one?

 

[mikestertwo]

great thanks. which actual switch is it? the lower one with the 2 plugs or the upper one?

It's the one with the 2 plugs. The one with the vacuum line is for your cruise control.

 

[ct67_72]

ok great, can I jump the switch to check it or should I just change it?

 

[mikestertwo]

ok great, can I jump the switch to check it or should I just change it?

Check the adjustment first. Make sure it is pushed all the way up to the brake pedal. Also make sure your getting 12v to it.

 

[ct67_72]

ok again, thanks. so if the switch is adjusted correctly and I get 12v to one side, technically I should be able to jump the harness and get lockup to work, assuming this is the problem, or at least get 12v to f. then go from there.
now which plug of the 2 is for lockup?
I really appreciate everyones answer thus far and they have been very helpful, I just dont want to throw parts at this thing, so Id like to go through everything pretty thoroughly.
so if I jump the harness and get lockup I will know to replace the switch.
Thanks again. Dan

 

[ct67_72]

so I checked everything out again tonight. I checked both plugs on the harness because I wasnt sure which one did what. so on the 2 wire plug there is 12v to the light gray wire and power to the brown with the key on, no power to brown wiht the pedal depressed so that one is good. I checked the other plug and had power to the center red wire and nothing at the outer 2 wires, so I checked for continuity to ground which I did and lost continuity to ground on both wires with the pedal depressed.
the 2 wire is obvious but Im not sure how the 3 wire is supposed to work, does this sound right? Thanks. Dan

 

[ct67_72]

anyone? Thanks

 

[mikestertwo]

so I checked everything out again tonight. I checked both plugs on the harness because I wasnt sure which one did what. so on the 2 wire plug there is 12v to the light gray wire and power to the brown with the key on, no power to brown wiht the pedal depressed so that one is good. I checked the other plug and had power to the center red wire and nothing at the outer 2 wires, so I checked for continuity to ground which I did and lost continuity to ground on both wires with the pedal depressed.
the 2 wire is obvious but Im not sure how the 3 wire is supposed to work, does this sound right? Thanks. Dan

The wires that control the TCC solenoid are pink with a black stripe and purple. You should have 12v on the pink/black wire when you turn the key on. This wire gets it's power from the ECM/SOL fuse. You should have 12v on the purple wire until you depress the brake pedal and then it should go to 0v.

 

[ct67_72]

ok thanks. ill have to take another look and see what colors are what

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

2004R wiring in a GN


Going by wire color, tan/black is lockup(pin D), purple is +12V feed(pin A), dk grn/white is 3rd gear switch(pin C), light blue is 4th gear switch(pin B).


1- The computer feeds tan/black -/ground to activate the L/U
2- Purple is always live +12V to the L/U solenoid. But its also wired through the brake switch (press the brake pedal and NO +12 volts.
3- 3rd gear switch Dk grn/white feeds the computer Ground when the Trans is in 3rd gear.
4-4th gear switch Lt blue feeds the computer Ground when the Trans is in 4th gear.

By jumping pin “F” and Pin “A” on the ALDL plug the coveter can be locked

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

diagram in this thread

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tr...-dash-mating-wire-harness-lock-up-switch.html

 

[ct67_72]

thats perfect thanks. I can trace through the diagram. its hard without seeing anything