Accufab AFPR problem

Carl Ramsey

Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
(1987 Stock Regal Turbo) My stock FPR (no vacuum) reads 36psi on the small gauge on the end of my cars injection manifold. I purchased a new Accufab FPR and plugged it in place of my stock FPR and read 0psi fuel pressure. I adjusted the center rod from all the way out to all the way down but see no reading. I replace it with the stock FPR and see 36psi. (Obviously with the fuel pump on in all instances) No obvious problem I can see at the inlet or outlet but sent back to Accufab for check. It checks good on their test bench, so they ship it back. I swap it back in place of stock and still have no fuel pressure showing so back to stock to drive the car.

Anyone in the Houston area have a stock turbo car I can swap this into to test it or have any other trouble shooting tips?
 
Accufab said it tested OK on their test bench. The only physical difference I can see is in the bottom outlet port. The stock one is stepped down to a smaller diameter after the threaded portion. The Accufab keeps the same diameter past the threads.
 
if its new i would return and buy from another source or go with the kirban billet
ive run them both and have had good luck with the accufab , the kirban one seems a little restrictive and wasnt able to drop pressure low enough (line on) with a healhy hotwired 255lph pump
 
Accufab seems to always say it tests OK. It would appear their test bench and real life are two different things.


I saw the inside of a brand new Accufab unit fresh back from Accufab (with the same clean bill of health) that doesn't work. From what I can tell with my own two eyes is they are junk from a shitty design. Thanks to the powerlogger and fuel pressure transducers, we're seeing more and more hard data that shows they just don't regulate well.

Plus, with modern chips (and translators) you don't need an adjustable FPR anymore. We no longer have to tune WOT with fuel pressure.
 
Accufab seems to always say it tests OK. It would appear their test bench and real life are two different things.


I saw the inside of a brand new Accufab unit fresh back from Accufab (with the same clean bill of health) that doesn't work. From what I can tell with my own two eyes is they are junk from a shitty design. Thanks to the powerlogger and fuel pressure transducers, we're seeing more and more hard data that shows they just don't regulate well.

Plus, with modern chips (and translators) you don't need an adjustable FPR anymore. We no longer have to tune WOT with fuel pressure.

Still nice for fine tuning the fuel curve in the chip to the car. I adjust my fp off the bl and then adjust wot fueling in the translator after that. It's usually within a couple of pounds of what the chip maker recommends, but it dials the car in nicely for cruise bl's.
 
I don't follow your logic...

You knock your curve out of whack just for a magic cruise BLM, then use the translator to 'unwhack' it? As long as your BLMs aren't maxed out , the ECM will still put the fueling where it wants it relative to the O2 signal.
 
I don't follow your logic...

You knock your curve out of whack just for a magic cruise BLM, then use the translator to 'unwhack' it? As long as your BLMs aren't maxed out , the ECM will still put the fueling where it wants it relative to the O2 signal.

My WOT fueling always needed adjusting with the TT chip as it's static at wot and bl locks @ 128 but the extender chip reads air at wot. The wot fueling is usually 0+- but still needs adjustment based upon better or worse air and how much alky I'm throwing in which changes based upon the time of year. My settings aren't whacked at all, but to think that every car with this chip is perfect at 45psi base fp is not true either; that's just a good place to start and it's fine tuned by adjusting the pressure up or down a couple of pounds as indicated by the bl's. The curve itself is right and technically yes, within 10+- of 128 is good, but why not make it perfect?

And how do you really know if the 45psi base is the real fuel pressure? Every gauge reads a bit different, but the bl's tell you what the car likes. It just has a large window for error so it doesn't NEED to be set perfectly.
 
Cause I calibrate my transducers and alter the .ini file on powelogger accordingly :)

I guess it's just a different style of tuning. I don't care if my cruise BLMs are 127 or 129. The actual A/F is the same. (actually it's lean as hell during 'lean cruise').
 
Cause I calibrate my transducers and alter the .ini file on powelogger accordingly :)

I guess it's just a different style of tuning. I don't care if my cruise BLMs are 127 or 129. The actual A/F is the same. (actually it's lean as hell during 'lean cruise').

Fancy! I don't worry about 127 or 129 either as it moves around while driving, but I do adjust to keep it centered as much as possible. If the fp gets too far off from the recommendation, then I'm looking for another problem.
 
Accufab seems to always say it tests OK. It would appear their test bench and real life are two different things.


I saw the inside of a brand new Accufab unit fresh back from Accufab (with the same clean bill of health) that doesn't work. From what I can tell with my own two eyes is they are junk from a shitty design. Thanks to the powerlogger and fuel pressure transducers, we're seeing more and more hard data that shows they just don't regulate well.

Plus, with modern chips (and translators) you don't need an adjustable FPR anymore. We no longer have to tune WOT with fuel pressure.
I have a TT 5.7 chip with 120's, and had to adjust my fuel pressure by a few pounds to cure a tip in stumble. Probably could've been fixed in the chip, but was able to cure it with FP...

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