Ronnie, is this why your ordered "the hit" on Mr Minga
That's Dr. Minga. Know your role
86 Regal T
- Thread starter aminga
- Start date
That's Dr. Minga. Know your role
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
That's Dr. Minga. Know your role
GOt ya in my sights, whatcha goona do...... I am not a hitman but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night
That's Dr. Minga. Know your role
Well doc, my friends call me the professor.:biggrin: I think Ty needs to eat some donuts and get back on the road to home now. LOL
TABuickMike
Michael Tomaszewski Jr
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2009
We send the valve covers to a powder coating shop and have them powder coat the covers that krinkle black.. hence it being a b!tch to remove haha. Also we do sell those as satin (just bare aluminum) which probably would have saved you the time of stripping the powder coat off :tongue:
I have been trying for a Stock++ Look on my engine. Everything that would come off and fit in the oven is getting powder coated. Even been trying some ceramic stuff myself.
Since it's a mortal sin to cover up good billet. The inlet bell is rubbed with steel wool and coated with gloss clear.
The Compressor housing is eastwood blasted Aluminum. The pictures don't do it justice. It looks exactly like an AL part out of the blast cabinet except grease and dirt wipe right off.
The turbine housing and center section are Columbia cast Iron ceramic.
Since it's a mortal sin to cover up good billet. The inlet bell is rubbed with steel wool and coated with gloss clear.
The Compressor housing is eastwood blasted Aluminum. The pictures don't do it justice. It looks exactly like an AL part out of the blast cabinet except grease and dirt wipe right off.
The turbine housing and center section are Columbia cast Iron ceramic.
OK the intake should have been complete by now. Found oil around the throttle shaft seals so I'm waiting on them to complete the throttle body.
With the exception of the fuel rail and the sender bodies everything here is powder including the FPR. (I wanted it to look a little more like a stock one so the uneducated couldn't tell). Got rid of the standard screws replaced them with stainless so they wouldn't rust either.
With the exception of the fuel rail and the sender bodies everything here is powder including the FPR. (I wanted it to look a little more like a stock one so the uneducated couldn't tell). Got rid of the standard screws replaced them with stainless so they wouldn't rust either.
Some progress with the few warm weekends it's been warm enough for urethane to cure. I was originally going to repaint the firewall but in cleaning it up I found what the original assembly marks on the firewall. Color code 11 in orange marker beside the brake booster and the sequence number written on the transmission tunnel. So to preserve that I cleaned it good and cleared it. Since urethane clear isn't exactly compatible with 23 year old lacquer It took some light mist coats at first.
And I painted the frame rails in the engine compartment. It's not a complete frame off but it looks good for what it is. I spent a week under the car on a creeper scraping and wirebrushing off the factor coating and 23 years of accumulated oil and road grime. We'll see how this ceramic chassis black holds up but it looks good.
Tore down the core support to fix some problems. It was painted at a body shop and they did a bad job on it. They used gloss black and sprayed it over the top of some old pitting and flaking paint. I sanded it back to metal, got it smooth and shot satin black over the top. Gave the A/C hoses a shot as well
And took the fender brackets, the hood latch, and the A/C box heat shield off and gave them a little satin black Powder coat the downside of doing all this is the bolts that looked pretty good before now have to be redone.
And I painted the frame rails in the engine compartment. It's not a complete frame off but it looks good for what it is. I spent a week under the car on a creeper scraping and wirebrushing off the factor coating and 23 years of accumulated oil and road grime. We'll see how this ceramic chassis black holds up but it looks good.
Tore down the core support to fix some problems. It was painted at a body shop and they did a bad job on it. They used gloss black and sprayed it over the top of some old pitting and flaking paint. I sanded it back to metal, got it smooth and shot satin black over the top. Gave the A/C hoses a shot as well
And took the fender brackets, the hood latch, and the A/C box heat shield off and gave them a little satin black Powder coat the downside of doing all this is the bolts that looked pretty good before now have to be redone.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
Brake fluid look a lil low
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2002
"Frenchie":biggrin:
So the ISAC controller needs to be tapped into several of the ECM feeds to be able to work. SInce I was adverse to hacking up the ECM wiring I called Casper's electronics and the created this little #. I can Wire the ISAC into it and just Plug and play into the ECM harness. Not to mention the Hour I would have spent soldering all of the connections.
Got the factory MAP and the Wastegate actuator modified to use Push Lock tubing. No more lines popping off under boost
Casper's Ground Stretcher Kit installed. No more having to reach behind the head to get to all of the ECM and sensor grounds
Upgraded Windshield washer Pump and reservoir installed
Factory Trans Cooler and lines eliminated and replaced with -6an line and fittings. The factory lines ran through the crossover so you had to go under the car to pull it before pulling the motor. The new fittings run up the inside of the frame to the front bumper
Got the factory MAP and the Wastegate actuator modified to use Push Lock tubing. No more lines popping off under boost
Casper's Ground Stretcher Kit installed. No more having to reach behind the head to get to all of the ECM and sensor grounds
Upgraded Windshield washer Pump and reservoir installed
Factory Trans Cooler and lines eliminated and replaced with -6an line and fittings. The factory lines ran through the crossover so you had to go under the car to pull it before pulling the motor. The new fittings run up the inside of the frame to the front bumper
Thats about 2 weeks worth of work. Life and work has sort of got in the way of progress
This was so simple yet so trick it had to be shared. Modified the a standard accufab FPR so it would take a push-lock connector. The vacuum stem screws in so it just had to be removed and reamed out to a 1/8 NPT hole. It's a close fit. If the Push lock isn't turned just right you can't tighten down the lock ring on the insert but it did fit. On the manifold side they used a hard metal line so I took a short piece of 1/4 line heated it and pressed down over the fitting with a little superglue and a piece of shrink wrap to keep it secure. Pressurized the line to 80 PSI and it didn't leak or pop off.
Looking good Al.....
When are you going to Champaign?
No definite date yet
Got A little satin black powder on the interfooler. Normally you want your interfoolers to show but we're keeping this one low key
Fabbed up a mount for the new boost control solenoid. I cut a new mount tab out of sheet metal and welded it to the stock MAP,solenoid panel on the PS fenderwell. While I had it off reshot that bracket in satin black powder. Cause it's not how fast you go it's how good you look doing it.
And I got the factory harness re wrapped to eliminate the hard plastic wiring conduit that didn't fit the TA performance valve covers anyway. Cut it completely apart and rerouted the lines in a way that made more sense. Which this picture doesn't show. For example the wastegate control circuit now runs back toward the heater box in the oval conduit and comes out under it so it goes to the new WG solenoid over on the PS fender now.
Fabbed up a mount for the new boost control solenoid. I cut a new mount tab out of sheet metal and welded it to the stock MAP,solenoid panel on the PS fenderwell. While I had it off reshot that bracket in satin black powder. Cause it's not how fast you go it's how good you look doing it.
And I got the factory harness re wrapped to eliminate the hard plastic wiring conduit that didn't fit the TA performance valve covers anyway. Cut it completely apart and rerouted the lines in a way that made more sense. Which this picture doesn't show. For example the wastegate control circuit now runs back toward the heater box in the oval conduit and comes out under it so it goes to the new WG solenoid over on the PS fender now.
