86 Regal T

One point I'm trying to make with this is you can do a pretty good restoration without doing a frame off in your garage with some basic tools. And you get to drive the car in the summers between steps.

Incidentally I was discussing the engine build with the wife last night. I had planned to just reuse the stock pistons if he bores were in good shape, but brought up the subject of putting forged in the motor.

She said "You are doing this much you might as well go ahead and do that"

I think I'll keep her.
 
Where is my intake pic.......?

Just for you Ronnie, Fresh out of the oven. It's actually still at about 200 degrees as the picture was taken. I'm a little bummed that it came out a different shade than the doghouse but it appears this eastwood bare metal clear changes color as it cools. I'm pretty sure that like a recipe though anything I might do to fix it will only make things worse.

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Alan, the difference is in the cure.

If the clear is yellowed it is over cured.
 
Clear coat can be a real pain in the $%&*.
A lot of times the color looks better with out the clear.
 
looking good bro.........
btw, your pic of my car is still my favorite;)
 
Clear coat can be a real pain in the $%&*.
A lot of times the color looks better with out the clear.


Ronnie, I'm trying for a just a bit better than stock look so i'm clearing over bare metal.

Gary. Yea I got luck with that one. I was just out there burning bytes on the memory card and fell into that one. Got the tire wrinkle and all.
 
Thanks guys. I figure out why I overcooked the Intake. I've been setting the timer on my oven without my glasses and I set it to 25 minutes :mad:

I'll get pictures up later but I took my TA performance valve covers, blasted them back to metal and refinished in a semi gloss black with polished letters.
 
Looking foward to more pics Al. You could just recoat the intake couldn't you, or would that cause other problems?
 
Looking foward to more pics Al. You could just recoat the intake couldn't you, or would that cause other problems?

Charlie, The dark or yellowing clear would show thru. And once the coating is
or has been overheated it becomes brittle. Him striping it is the correct thing in this case
 
Charlie, The dark or yellowing clear would show thru. And once the coating is
or has been overheated it becomes brittle. Him striping it is the correct thing in this case

Yea and it overheated but it's stuck good enough that it's PITA to remove.
 
LOL that's why I asked. Wasn't sure how it would react. Next dumb question. Could you cook it again to burn off the coating? Since it's brittle now making it more brittle would make it easier to take off, right?
 
LOL that's why I asked. Wasn't sure how it would react. Next dumb question. Could you cook it again to burn off the coating? Since it's brittle now making it more brittle would make it easier to take off, right?


I don't know Ronnie???
 
TA performance valve covers. They were done in wrinkle black. Now redone in Semi Gloss. I don't know what TA uses to coat the things but it did not go down without a fight. I polished the letters for a little bling.


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They'll be going on to clear these.

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OK. I blasted it back to bare metal and took another crack at the lower intake keeping the temp lower and shortening the cure time just a touch

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My first attempt at shooting ceramic. The starter shield and turbo shield are ceramic al and the turbo bracket and EGR hold down are ceramic cast iron.

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