78 regal performance

ok, if it creates more back pressure, why is it when people have tested the hooker exhaust system at the track that have seen very little/no difference in boost or 1/4 time with open dump or any exhaust for that matter? Also no difference from 2/12 to 3 exhaust with dual systems. These were tested on 10 second cars and not bench raced crackpot theories.

...and how many designs is there gonna be for a gbody? I doubt mike is gonna try reinventing the wheel.
 
Ill say it again. Depends on the system. Where are the mufflers on the hooker system? I have never seen one.
 
Just get the pypes dual 2.5" cat back with race pros. It sounds good, falls into place, and is stainless. I am also going to add affordable.

By the time you spend the money on a custom made 3" or buy a single shot it would have been cheaper to go with the dual setup. Nobody makes a single 2.5" witch may be all you need, but duals just flat out looks better. Going to a 3" or even 2.5" single shot is a waste with the stock down pipe. The ID of the stock down pipe is less than 2".

Before you touch anything get it running right. Change the oil, change the plugs, replace the fuel filter. Then get a 4barrel carb and plenum. Cut the secondary air valve stop off, and get a better air filter. Then do exhaust.

Heres my 2.5" dual setup.
picture928.jpg
 
If you go into the general section and look at the top of the page you'll find the fabrications section. One of the B4black guys built his own 2.5" down pipe from scratch and shows you how to do it. Makes it much more effecient and spools the car faster.:)
 
ZNix said:
I would listen to Charlie he really know his stuff. His word is hold around here. And it is most certainly physically possible for it to cause more back-pressure depending on the design of the system.
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I only have one problem with that statemant his car does not even run it has not the whole time he has been posting. He is very smart but bench racing is always easier especially when you can use other peoples wallets to figure stuff out.
 
mikemcvaney said:
I only have one problem with that statemant his car does not even run it has not the whole time he has been posting. He is very smart but bench racing is always easier especially when you can use other peoples wallets to figure stuff out.
Click to expand...

I won't argue this at all Mike. My car isn't running right now but it did when I pulled it off the trailer with a bad rod knock. I do not now have a turbo car that's running. I do have a car that's under construction though. I will also add that I'm an ASE certified tech with 30 years of experience and a college degree in Automotive Service Tecnology and lack around 60 hours on a mechanical engineering degree.

Now if you want to send some cash my way I'd be more than happy to finish the car up and see how she runs.:) I figure with the engine, transmision, suspension, and safety upgrades it'll take about $2K to get her to the point I want before paint and interior work begins.:)
 
Keep chippn away at it Im about2k away from done but am thinking about junking stock intake and using sigle plain which will involve a larger scoop it never ends also builing a back up block another money pit. The tranny will blow up next. And by the way interiors are highly overrated.
 
Ill give you the thirty years experiance ASe cert means nothing to me know a lot of retards that are ASE cert. Experiance is the best teacher and thirty years probably makes you more cert than the dork who tested you.Or he would be turning wrenches insread of paper. You should test them. And by the way did not say you wre not very smart and an asset to this site and just an all around cool guy. You and a few others are the only reason I am on this site you guys know who you are with that said am going to fire up my regal and go out for a while it is nice today. Wish it would get cold so I can take this thing apart and puton my new parts.:biggrin:
 
I'll be honest with you Mike. If I wasn't determined to show that a "stock" looking system will work to get some decent times and power I'd switch to either the KB intake or the Weiand I've got sitting here. A few of the guys on the board have seen what's been done to the intake but I haven't finished it yet. Needless to say it will flow much more than a stock one will ever thing of flowing and when I get it buttoned up Mr Clark has agreed to flow it and see how it does. He's got a stock one already that he's gonna flow first though and that'll give a base for testing.:)

Now if I really had the cash I'd be putting the 4.1 together, but the shortblock will cost around 5K by itself so it sits for now.:(
 
Checking out a 4.1 now found a set of new forged pistins 30 over for 150 from my machinast that is probably going to be my back up block
 
mikemcvaney said:
Checking out a 4.1 now found a set of new forged pistins 30 over for 150 from my machinast that is probably going to be my back up block
Click to expand...

Got 2 standard 3.8's 1 I don't know about until I tear it down, 1 .060 block that will be used first just in case I blow it, and the 4.1 which will be a long rod engine Mike. On the 4.1 I want to get the rod ratio to a better balance which increases dwell time of the compression period and the longer rods increase the torque curve quite a bit.:)
 
Do you have just a 4.1 block Charlie? How much are you looking to get out of it. NO WAY would it cost you near 5gs to get a moderate build up.
 
What I ment for the 'cut the secondary air valve stop off' is if you upgrade to a 4 barrel Qjet the secondaries will have a flap above the secondary throttle blades. This upper valve is vacuume operated and will only supply the motor with the amount of air the motor needs. Cutting the stop off the side will increase the carb's CFM. It makes it from a 550CFM carb to a 750 essentially.

Swapping carb's and plenums is the first thing I would do after general maintainance.
 
ZNix said:
Do you have just a 4.1 block Charlie? How much are you looking to get out of it. NO WAY would it cost you near 5gs to get a moderate build up.
Click to expand...

The 4.1 won't be a moderate build. Forged crank, forged longer rods, and a girdle are what I want to do with it. Between the forged parts and the custom pistons and machine work it will cost around 5K from what I've priced so far.

MNcarbturbo said:
What I ment for the 'cut the secondary air valve stop off' is if you upgrade to a 4 barrel Qjet the secondaries will have a flap above the secondary throttle blades. This upper valve is vacuume operated and will only supply the motor with the amount of air the motor needs. Cutting the stop off the side will increase the carb's CFM. It makes it from a 550CFM carb to a 750 essentially.

Swapping carb's and plenums is the first thing I would do after general maintainance.
Click to expand...

The top plates on a Q-jet don't work the way most think. The front part of the plate needs to be sticking straight up to get the most airl flow and best fuel distribution. If they open to far then you actually loose air flow. You can get as much as 1100 CFM out of them if you know what you're doing.:biggrin:
 
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