#5 Cylinder 300 degrees Cooler

Yep, the TV valve was stuck bad. It has a bur on the outer lip of the steel sleeve that was holding the valve in. I pulled the valve body out and got the TV circuit apart and hit the end of it with a small piece of sand paper and it's been fine since then.
 
Yep, the TV valve was stuck bad. It has a bur on the outer lip of the steel sleeve that was holding the valve in. I pulled the valve body out and got the TV circuit apart and hit the end of it with a small piece of sand paper and it's been fine since then.
Very good.
 
I'm using a temp gun to shoot the header right as it's coming out of the port. All other cylinders are 500 deg or so, #5 is 193-250 degrees. The car has an intermittent stumble/miss at idle, but runs good otherwise during normal driving. I've done a search and found one thread that mentioned that a valve spring could be broken, but what else could it be? I've changed plugs twice, and I've checked the resistance across the terminals on the coil. I've also check the resistance of the 10mm wires. They all read around 3.5k ohms, except for the one on the #1 cylinder which was 1k ohms higher...but it's temps are in normal range like the others. Has anyone experienced this?

What chip? Open or closed loop idle?
 
have you tried pulling that wire off the cylinder while at idle?see if its same temp and idles the same.
it seems like the 200degrees might be radiant heat fom the rest of headers.
what about an ohm test on coil.i had a coil that seemed to run fine but once i learned how to test one,mine was bad.took away my low idle miss.
just spitballing here
What method did you use to check the coil pack? What #es did you get? Thanks John
 
Well my problem is solved. The injectors are junk.
On my 85 hot air the #3 hole was a few hundred cooler than the others found out the injector was not working no voltage the weatherhead connector not making good contact plugged it in and put a plastic tie to really lock it in place I'm screaming now. John
 
Top