3bar MAP sensor

Just FYI...

I test all of my 3 bar MAP sensors before shipping. I check the output voltage at atmospheric, and 30psi. Then I pump it up past 30psi to make sure it doesn't leak. I started doing this about 2 years ago when I also started seeing variations in quality.

The AEM 3.5bar is a better sensor though. I used to sell those, but no one wanted to pay the higher price, so I stopped selling them.
 
The AEM 3.5bar is a better sensor though. I used to sell those, but no one wanted to pay the higher price, so I stopped selling them.
These days I don't even give the option on certain parts. It's supplier/installer beware. The sensor shits the bed and the engine detonates and folds rods and hammers out the bottom end the owner will be looking for someone to blame.



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im running the sd2,im having an issue everyonce in a while when it starrts,the map dosnt go below 50 and its flooding it out.so i was pondering getting this aem unit.im 95 %of the time im at sea level.would this be a better map then buying another gm 3bar?
dont mean to hijack turbonut 85,


Make sure you run a ground wire from the map sensor plug to the battery ground wire on the right fender. I had issues with the original SD chip having fluctuations when there was a high electrical load(a/c, hi beams). I just stripped some jnsulation and soldered a wire an inch away from the map sensor plug and sealed it with shrink tube.

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Make sure you run a ground wire from the map sensor plug to the battery ground wire on the right fender. I had issues with the original SD chip having fluctuations when there was a high electrical load(a/c, hi beams). I just stripped some jnsulation and soldered a wire an inch away from the map sensor plug and sealed it with shrink tube.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
did that the other day,ever since then,knock on wood,no issues.thanks
 
thats not the best ground for the MAP sensor. I've been over this several times, and perhaps it needs its own thread.

but.

body grounds suck, the stock MAP sensor wiring in an analog dash car is grounded to the dashboard structure and (like you noted) is subject to interactions with other things (brake lights, headlights, etc).

the proper ground is the engine, this is where all of the controls (ECM) are connected.

the battery is somewhat of a compromise, but considering its easy to get to is a huge step up from the dash.

If the MAP sensor is controlling the engine (speed density stuff), then treat it right.

There is a harness that Razor sells (it might be made by Caspers, I don't know) that will feed the MAP sensor from the 5v and ground from the TPS circuit, this works REALLY WELL,
and for those who like plug-and-play solutions is a good alternative.


Bob
 
thats not the best ground for the MAP sensor. I've been over this several times, and perhaps it needs its own thread.

but.

body grounds suck, the stock MAP sensor wiring in an analog dash car is grounded to the dashboard structure and (like you noted) is subject to interactions with other things (brake lights, headlights, etc).

the proper ground is the engine, this is where all of the controls (ECM) are connected.

the battery is somewhat of a compromise, but considering its easy to get to is a huge step up from the dash.

If the MAP sensor is controlling the engine (speed density stuff), then treat it right.

There is a harness that Razor sells (it might be made by Caspers, I don't know) that will feed the MAP sensor from the 5v and ground from the TPS circuit, this works REALLY WELL,
and for those who like plug-and-play solutions is a good alternative.


Bob
dammit!,i already cut mine up.if razor sees this ,shoot us a link or part #and ill get one also.
 
The reason I used that location is because its the same as the small ground wire coming from the battery so it is effectively grounded to the battery and it is very easy to connect to.

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