18 psi too much

Thanks everyone. Renowned shop owner RC and Xavier and Sydwinder told me it was 18 on their $2500 boost gauge. I know the stock gauge is for laughs. Shop also told me to have TT reburn my chip, which he was nice enough to do. Shop adjusted puck all the way and 18 was low as it would go. Still getting knock up to 4 or 5 unless I use Sunoco 260, which is expensive. Don't really want alky. So I might be interested in drilling that wye connector. But where to drill the hole and what diameter hole? Is that my best option? I want it done right.


IF its a HD actuator .. you can drill all you want .. 17-18 psi is the lowest it will go ..

VERIFY what part number is on the actuator .., then report back ...

There are a bunch of people that would trade the stock actuator for a HD one if that's the case
 
Pick up a new standard duty adjustable waste gate actuator from Kirban, or whoever.

Set your boost at 16# if you want to run 91-93 octane pump gas without worry.
 
surprised it didn't unload the head gaskets

I guess not being at WOT helped, didn't even get knock. Can you even run 30# safely on single nozzle alky?

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A front mount intercooler and rjc power plate on 93 octane would likely allow you to run the 18#'s...
 
I do have an rjc power plate. If I take it off might boost come down?

Maybe next weekend I can take the turbo shield off and see what model actuator and report back. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
I do have an rjc power plate. If I take it off might boost come down?

I was going to ask if you had one.
Without the power plate the back cylinders, I believe, will lean out causing more KR necessitating even less boost to stop it.
 
I find it hard to fathom RC et al couldn't find the issue why your boost is so high for a relatively stock set up. Is there more to this story than is being presented?
 
I find it hard to fathom RC et al couldn't find the issue why your boost is so high for a relatively stock set up. Is there more to this story than is being presented?

Yea right!?

All these posts about drilling the damn y when all you have to do is run the boost line direct to the actuator to achieve lowest possible boost.

It prolly is a HD actuator. That would make the most sense.
 
I was wondering that myself especially those of us that have been to his garage and the caliber (knowledge) of people that are there. Very strange.
 
You need to increase wastegate flow. No way around it. Properly plumbed external gate will be the most reliable and consistent approach


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You need to increase wastegate flow. No way around it. Properly plumbed external gate will be the most reliable and consistent approach


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Ext Gate on a stocker ?? really ?? .. sounds to be a drastic change for such a small problem
 
I'm pretty sure I have an adjustable WG actuator NIB somewhere around here, if you want it.

I run an external WG now.
 
Guy if he doesn't take it, my brothers needs a non HD one.

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I find it hard to fathom RC et al couldn't find the issue why your boost is so high for a relatively stock set up. Is there more to this story than is being presented?

They did nice work but they said, "Your boost is 18 psi and we can't get it any lower. You need to find a different wastegate and get your chip reburned. Here's your car back." That's all there is to the story.
 
I couldn't find the WG's I thought I had.... now that I think about it, I left them with the guy who put the external gate on... sorry.
 
Sure they said "wastegate" and not "actuator"? The puck is not adjustable. It just seals the wastegate hole off until the actuator pushes it open. The rod on the actuator can be adjustable. The original lower boost stock ones weren't unless you cut the rod, threaded it and put in a coupling nut. If they adjusted the actuator to the point it has no tension on it and it's still making that much boost, either the puck in the elbow (I'm assuming you don't have an aftermarket downpipe) is stuck closed or the actuator is a HD unit. I'm sure they would have seen the swingarm not moving freely so that is unlikely. You can test that by removing the clip and popping the rod off the swingarm. Should be easy if there is no tension on the rod. If it swings freely then get the part number off the actuator. Sounds like someone put a HD actuator on at some point.
 
Yea right!?

All these posts about drilling the damn y when all you have to do is run the boost line direct to the actuator to achieve lowest possible boost.

It prolly is a HD actuator. That would make the most sense.
Yup. I have the same issue. My TT chip is a street chip, 16-18lbs. I adjusted my WD for lowest boost setting, took the car out and hit about 3/4 throttle and I hit 25psi. Luckily, I had the alky turned on and it was only for a second.
 
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