16 Volt Setup

Jeff Rand

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2001
I was looking at converting over from my 12 volt setup. I have been looking for the battery, alternator and charger. Not sure what amp alternator to get and who would have decent prices on the components. I only use the car on the track. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Jeff
 
I can hook you up with a local guy for the battery and charger. I also have a local source for the adjustable output alternator if you're interested.

Scott Wile
 
My 16 volt set up consists of:
- Powermaster 16v battery
- 200A 16v alternator from East Coast Electric.
- Battery charger is a Powermaster, the single volt one.
I also have an Auto Meter 12/16v trickle charger if need be.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
My 16 volt set up consists of:
- Powermaster 16v battery
- 200A 16v alternator from East Coast Electric.
- Battery charger is a Powermaster, the single volt one.
I also have an Auto Meter 12/16v trickle charger if need be.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
Thank you. I was also looking at that East Coast alternator.
Jeff
 
I run a single wire XS Powermaster# 8068. Its the small CS130 case. Lighter than a stocker and will bolt on to the stock bracket with very minor mods. THis alternator has a adjustable regulator and a single wire hook up. It puts out 84 amps at idle and 108 at 6000 rotor speed. I have never had an issue with it my car. On the XFI log i get 17v the entire pass.

I use a Turbostart sealed battery and Powermaster charger.

I guess we will see how it does with the new combo and added electrical load.( Fuel pump, Liquid IC pump, and turbo scavenge pump)
 
I was looking at converting over from my 12 volt setup. I have been looking for the battery, alternator and charger. Not sure what amp alternator to get and who would have decent prices on the components. I only use the car on the track. Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Jeff

If you only use the car for racing why bother with an alternator ,one less
thing to have a problem with and less weight on the nose
 
Why 16 volts?
Conrad

All the electric motors run faster (window motors, fans, fuel pumps etc.) You might have to turn down the fuel pressure or change the injector opening time on an aftermarket ECM. The spark coming off the coil pack will be hotter (my friend picked up, on a dyno test, 40hp with this one change on his 800hp motor). The radio will handle it and the FAST loves the higher voltage. The down side is the cost and you will be replacing light bulbs more often.
Jeff
 
Cool. I seem to remember from my SAE magazine that some of the OEM's are looking at higher voltages.
Conrad
 
You won't get a hotter spark because the current through the coil is limited to 6.5 amps. The ignition module will run hotter (temperature) too. You do , however, get the benefit of being able to rev higher before the ignition starts to fall off.
 
16V makes cranking and startup much easier. If you have a borderline 12V battery and your ECM is picky about supply voltage, as the Electromotive is, the voltage supply to the ECM can drop too low during cranking to get the engine to fire off. Some supply 16V to the starter only and 12V to the rest of the electrical systems. That alone would be paradise with my setup.

Not running an alternator might be tough if you run into a series where you're demanded to return to the lanes immediately after your pass. One example is the finals for Pinks All Out. This would really be a problem with computers involved. Computers like their voltage.
 
i run two 16volts and you can almost put the thing in gear and drive the car with just the starter motor. it makes everything better. if you read most high power ignitions require at least 14 volts to operate at there max potential. with a 16v system its easy to maintain with all the electronics that cars run on. electric fans, fuel pumps etc........ i would never have anything else buut a 16v. just put it in and crank the car one time.
 
i run two 16volts and you can almost put the thing in gear and drive the car with just the starter motor. it makes everything better. if you read most high power ignitions require at least 14 volts to operate at there max potential. with a 16v system its easy to maintain with all the electronics that cars run on. electric fans, fuel pumps etc........ i would never have anything else buut a 16v. just put it in and crank the car one time.

Well this modification was down on the list but it looks like I have to move it up. I was told to get an adjustable alternator (adjusts from 12V to 20V) and determine where it has to be set based on the requirements of the electrical system. My friend runs his about 18V.
Thanks for all the information,
Jeff
 
You need to run around 18v to charge a 16v battery. Like a 12v battery charges at around 14v (stock set up).

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
You need to run around 18v to charge a 16v battery. Like a 12v battery charges at around 14v (stock set up).

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

To add to this , it depends on the battery type and brand. A wet cell 16v will need more voltage to charge. The sealed 16v batteries take less voltage and a different charging rate in an attempt to avoid degassing the cells out.
 
To add to this , it depends on the battery type and brand. A wet cell 16v will need more voltage to charge. The sealed 16v batteries take less voltage and a different charging rate in an attempt to avoid degassing the cells out.

I wonder how you know about batteries....:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
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