1-2 WOT shift

larrym

West Coast Newfy
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
So my 1-2 shift is at 5900 rpm 2-3 is 5500. Want to drop the 1-2 shift down to close to the 2-3. Did a little digging and using a softer spring on the 1-2 shift valve should work so where would look to source such an an animal? I also read that shortening said spring has the same affect can anyone confirm this or direct me on dropping the shift point.
 
It's a mild built tranny with a transgo shift kit. Had it built by a local who is pretty well respected it shifts quick and firm not harsh stock internals and a wide band. Converter is a 2800 stall lock up unit.
 
I would be VERY hesitant to modify the spring. I would look into getting some similar ones to try. This way you can go back to the know 5.9k shift if needed. Once you cut it you have made your way to no man's land.
 
I have an other VB out of a 200 from a cutlass I bought as a core for parts and it was what I used to wrap my head around disassembly and assembly on my original build worked great until I sheared the band anchor...
 
It's a mild built tranny with a transgo shift kit. Had it built by a local who is pretty well respected it shifts quick and firm not harsh stock internals and a wide band. Converter is a 2800 stall lock up unit.
What code transmission or valvebody. A BR should not be shifting that high with posted info. What RPM does the engine drop to on a shift.
 
Thanks for the reply Dave. It's a BRF or was.... I added a set screw to the governor in hopes of getting things right still spins to high in 1-2 5900 drops to 4700 on the shift 2-3 5400 drops to 4500.
 
which weight did you put the screw in? I would do one in the small weight (I think the big weight is already holding the ball closed by that rpm)or maybe a spot weld or two. You really need a scale if you are to be accurate with it.

I bought one like this but I don't remember it costing that much. A search might yield you a more economical unit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069QFDRO?refRID=TWY3BM8WMXK04BS9VYPZ&ref_=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p

DO a search as Bison has posted governor info and weights before but I don't have any links handy.
 
I have a scale for calcium chloride tests I don't sell weed but I had to buy the scale at a head shop.....The set screw was on the light weight to pin the spring.
 
It does affect shift rpm based on my experience swapping converters. I have trouble understanding why the 2-3 shift would not be affected
 
As far as I can tell it's not my direct clutches since they are not part of first gear
 
I'd have to dig all the kit instructions out but I'm pretty sure transgo swaps the 1-2 spring in every kit they ever made.
 
It does affect shift rpm based on my experience swapping converters. I have trouble understanding why the 2-3 shift would not be affected
Larry, I looked at the link you sent me regarding your converter build.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/converter.400472/

From what I see, it does not look like a bad build. However, it is a 0 pump with a modified 380 stator. The stator is your main problem here as it will not flow for a turbo application. It was manually angle milled...(nothing wrong with that) but then the back side was cut down to increase the flash stall and this lowered efficiency. The flow rate is reduced with this setup and will take some time for it to recover. Probably why you are pushing thru on your 1-2 shift and not as much on you 2-3 shift. I would imagine you are experiencing some extra heat and maybe an issue with lock-up.
 
Did a little digging and using a softer spring on the 1-2 shift valve should work so where would look to source such an an animal?
Doing this will lower the 1-2 shift shift rpm at all throttle openings and leave the 2-3 shift where it is now. Do your part throttle shifts seem to be high,late,and at two distinctly different rpm with the 1-2 being higher? If they seem to be happening at the right times,this move won't work for you.
 
Larry, I looked at the link you sent me regarding your converter build.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/converter.400472/

From what I see, it does not look like a bad build. However, it is a 0 pump with a modified 380 stator. The stator is your main problem here as it will not flow for a turbo application. It was manually angle milled...(nothing wrong with that) but then the back side was cut down to increase the flash stall and this lowered efficiency. The flow rate is reduced with this setup and will take some time for it to recover. Probably why you are pushing thru on your 1-2 shift and not as much on you 2-3 shift. I would imagine you are experiencing some extra heat and maybe an issue with lock-up.

Thanks for looking Dave I appreciate the insight, as a rule lockup has been fine while cruising around, you think the clutch is partially engaging on the 2-3 shift dragging the rpms down?
What about getting the stator swapped out locally is there one that is readily available that would work better.
 
Doing this will lower the 1-2 shift shift rpm at all throttle openings and leave the 2-3 shift where it is now. Do your part throttle shifts seem to be high,late,and at two distinctly different rpm with the 1-2 being higher? If they seem to be happening at the right times,this move won't work for you.

Yeah found that out the hard way swapped out the spring with another and it drastically changed the 1-2 part throttle shifts with little change to WOT.
 
Yeah found that out the hard way.
You found it out the only way you could have,you did it. You don't have a guess or opinion nor are you part of a consensus of people who voted and agreed about what will happen. You know what will happen. The truth is a vitally important commodity to have in this life and is worth obtaining at any price. Finding out the truth is never a waste of time or resources.
 
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