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The bolt in the pic looks like the Upper Control Arm to Frame Bolt. If that's correct then the stock bolt is M12-1.75 x 66 mm. Meaning 12mm diameter - 1.75 mm pitch x 66 mm long. I just finished my front end and the last part was dealing with those bolts. Finding the replacement bolt...

I fellow board member told me a trick to get the "long line" installed in the back as it needs to snake between the body and frame. Something like doing a fuel line. You might want to go with stainless (at least for that line) if for no other reason it won't get all bent up while installing it...

If you have the tools and are comfortable bending your own then I would go for it. I brought my Stainless Steel Set from ClassicTube.com. Fit wasn't perfect but close enough. GBody Parts might stock them as well. The two lines for each front brake aren't bad neither are the two lines off the...

I did after I made the post:rolleyes: My bad

Pic's of deck lid?

I'll bet someone buy's them. Thanks for the recommendation on the GBody Parts Rear Fillers. I think those are the one's I'm going with.

I thought I'd pass this along. I'm in the market for some but asking price here is beyond what i'm willing to pay. Buick Grand National,Regal,T-Type,Turbo T,Rear GM Bumper Fillers Happy Bidding.

Okay, I'll give this a shot. This is the last part of my front-end rebuild and would hate to have to take it to the shop now for two lousy nuts. As always thanks.

Charlie; Those wrenches your talking about. Do you mean like this OTC 7537 18mm Hex Upper Arm Alignment Wrench?

Thanks Charlie once again for helping out. No down pipe, it's a NA car. Just all the cooling hoses, AC, transmission cooler pipes, and everything else jammed up on the PS of the Block. I gave up for today, headed for 3rd's on some Bar-B-Q and I'll have another whack it it tomorrow. I don't...

..use a air impact on the old bolts to get them out. I did the DS UCA and was able to access the nuts for the frame bolts from the engine side coming in from the top. Plenty of room. Got the arm off without having to remove the steering shaft. The PS is a different animal. Can barely access...

No sweat, you can email the snaps to Innocencekills@Yahoo.com I got your PP info so all things being equal it looks like we're all set.

Can you grab some snaps and send me the paypal information for payment? TIA

Rear Bumper Energy Absorbers?

One of these days, hopefully. I know it's a bear but it's really the only way to go on cars of our vintage. Knock everything out at once instead of piecemeal.

K, slip me some snaps when you get a chance. Having fixed the linkage for the shifter the car no longer has the "park" issue so it can sit while I come up w/the scratch for some new bumper fillers. Which I had till the tranny went.:mad:

Hey Charlie, thanks for following up. I don't want to go with the aluminum for the reason you specified. R U planning to use those units you got? As a aside, I responded to your PM last week, did you get it? I was going through a rough patch at work.

Need to replace these and the GM Part# 22017846 is coming up discontinued. I'm sure I could find a old pair used but wondering if there is any charge left in them by now. Mine are fully collapsed and won't extend back out. TIA

Replaced the entire shift linkage today and put in new bushing in the shift lever at the transmission. Park problem is solved. Still no "D" or "2" though.

I have this one which I brought from a board member but couldn't use. I found that out after I sandblasted the outside, treated the metal w/a metal conditioner inside and out and painted it. I can throw in a new plug as well as I have a box of them.