Search results

I have a turbo 400 and am about to install a trans cooler. is it best to run the factory rad cooler with the after market one or lose it . should i mount the cooler any where under the can away for damage or in front of the rad. behind the inter cooler ...

not trying to hijack but whats the general opinion no the e-bay intercooler good or bad anybody running any good times on them

I had the car at a very well known turbo buick shop in houston and they said it had to be internal motor noise or my trans going south . my trans was starting to slip so I replaced it and the problem is still there. I s it possable to tune with out the knock sensor and with a wide band ...

changed it twice just to be sure 14 ibs with 2 wraps of tef. tape

I checked for cracks when my tranny went out (yes I checked the bolts) When in park i can rev it pretty hard and get the same 19.9 degrees of knock. it seems to only happen at motor speeds 4000 rpms or better. the motor has about 1000 miles and was built by a good machine shop...

ttt

I have checked all the outside the motor clearance problems. dp trans mount flex plate ( for cracks) . I was more so meaning internal motor problems that could cause knock ? what do is the general thoughts on tuning with the wide band and no knock sensor?

My car has had a knock problem since a motor build about a year ago. under boost (any boost even 10#) i get a bunch of knock on the scan master ( like 19.9 ) goes away in third gear I have tried it all and still get knock. c-16 and 10 pounds of boost and still get 19.9 I recently...

mine was doing the same thing (not rising with the boost ) I t was the fuel pump . full throttle sells 340 s for $99.00

I clamped off the hoses and this test leads me to believe it the check at the pump. It has been droping all fuel pressure as soon as the keys off for some time now. the loss of pressure under wot is a new deal. could the check be the problem.

I am pretty sure the check valve is bad because it wont hold any pressure after the key is off. goes from 45 to 0 in like 3 sec. would the check really hurt wot fuel pressure ?

adj. fpr yes set to 45 line off the boost was about 13-14 #s

what should i check if I do not get the 1psi increase per one # of boost. I have a hot wired 307 and when I get in the boost th fp climbs to about 50 and then drops to about 38. my alt is putting out about 12.5 v at wot (on the sm), I dont think thats enough is it . if not how makes a...

fixed the fuel pump problem, it was the orange wire in the right hand harness at the ecm. Where can a repair pin be purchased? \ Thanks

my walbro 307 stoped pumping today , i checked the plug with a volt meter and the pigtail at the back of the car gets power when the key is in the forward position. if I check the plug that comes out of the fuel pump for countinuty it acts as if all three wires are spliced together. does that...

sorry to interupt but mine bleed down in about 30 seconds. can this be a leak on the return side or does it pretty much mean an injector. the car just passed a smog test so it cant be too bad a leak .... right? thanks

not just sometimes, every time i quickly give it gas. I also have a knock that lasts for no more than the first two frames on the sm

This may sound like a stupid question but i got my gn out for a drive ( start it every 2-3 weeks) and every time I get on it alittle the first o2 numbers are 000 then go to there normal 780s. what could cause this. I dont remember it doing this the last time i drove it fp 44 psi line off...

my warm idle oil pressure is around 37-40 psi and at 2000 rpms its close to 90-95 psi the motor has about 1000 miles on it . is there any real problems with high oil pressure. Ive always heard better high than low

I cut mine in 3'' from the coil and the car idles rough. I was told to move the splice further away from plug wires and inj. to keep them from interfering . has anyone spliced under the hood and had much success thanks